96 Honda won't start Part II

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by Danny, Dec 27, 2006.

  1. Danny

    Danny Guest

    Well folks I have a 96 Honda Civic that ran fine and then one evening just
    won't start. I was advised by folks here to get a scanner before going
    further and I have done so. Tried it today and there are not any stored
    codes! I have done the following so far;

    Replaced the distributor cap and rotor
    Had the ignitor checked, they (auto parts store) report it as good
    Removed the air cleaner and sprayed carb cleaner in intake to see if it
    could be a fuel problem - no change
    Check the coil with an ohm meter and it checked good, I compared it to a new
    coil to make sure
    I hooked a wire from the coil spring to an air gap type spark plug tester
    and get spark there but not at the plugs
    Replaced the new distributor cap and rotor with other new ones thinking they
    might have been bad - same thing

    motor turns over fine it just won't hit! Any ideas, could the timing belt
    have slipped?

    Thanks from a shade tree mechanic,
    Dan
     
    Danny, Dec 27, 2006
    #1
  2. Danny

    Tegger Guest



    Why would you take the long way around? Do this instead:
    http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/startproblems.html#checkspark




    Shotgun approach does not work. Be methodical.



    Check timing with a timing light. Easy as pie.
     
    Tegger, Dec 28, 2006
    #2
  3. Danny

    Danny Guest

    I did check the plugs as the link suggest and there is no spark.

    To check timing with a timing light requires spark...doesn't it?
     
    Danny, Dec 28, 2006
    #3
  4. Danny

    Danny Guest

    After reading the page referenced I wonder if the coil could be bad. The old
    plugs were badly worn and I wonder if the high voltage side could have
    shorted to ground. The coil could still be good under a normal resistance
    check but under load the spark could jump to the case. Any thoughts?
     
    Danny, Dec 28, 2006
    #4
  5. Danny

    John M. Guest

    About 3 or so years ago my car started running very rough and uneven. I checked
    the resistance on the aftermarket spark plug wires and they were within spec. I
    can't remember the sequence of events in replacing items but it turned out that
    some of the wires were shorting out inside the spark plug tube. The cause was
    probably a combination of cheap wires and worn plugs. Again I can't remember
    but I think it continued after I put the new plugs in, which helped me diagnose
    the problem.

    I don't think this is your problem though, I'm just brainstorming here. Who
    knows what ideas it might "spark".

    Checked with new plugs?
     
    John M., Dec 28, 2006
    #5
  6. Danny

    Tegger Guest



    It does indeed.

    Check the rotor for continuity, to make sure it's OK.

    Then go here:
    http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/startproblems.html#badcoil
    See near the bottom of that section for how to check the coil.

    If you have a tach, it's even easier.
     
    Tegger, Dec 28, 2006
    #6
  7. Danny

    Danny Guest

    Tegger,

    I have done that and in fact have the second new rotor installed as we
    speak. Still a no-go. This is truly frustrating as I think I have covered
    all the bases. I am contemplating a new coil as a last resort as I don't
    have any other ideas.

    Dan
     
    Danny, Dec 28, 2006
    #7
  8. Danny

    Danny Guest

    Well folks it's fixed. After reading the FAQ (thanks Tegger) and considering
    that the plugs were badly worn I decided last night that the coil had to be
    the culprit. So today I took it out and sure enough there was a pin hole
    burned in one corner. The coil checked fine as far as the primary and
    secondary coil resistance is concerned, and if a wire was hooked to the coil
    out post and then to a plug tester it would fire. My theory is that since
    there is not any resistance, so to speak, in an ordinary wire it would fire
    fine but try to push the spark through a high resistance plug wire the fire
    would take an easier path out of the coil pin hole to the distributor body.

    Thanks for everyone's help and especially Tegger and his FAQ.

    Dan
     
    Danny, Dec 28, 2006
    #8
  9. Danny

    Tegger Guest




    Excellent! Glad it's fixed.

    Is there any way you can take a photo of the coil, specifically the area of
    damage?

    As far as current leakage goes, I have found it's not often possible to
    diagnose a bad coil by checking resistances with a multimeter. Pushing 3V
    through the coil with a tester will give very different results than when
    pushing 20,000V through it in actual operation.

    Electricity will take the path of least resistance, so I think your theory
    is sound: a compromised coil body would have less resistance than a 25,000
    ohm plug wire, but more than a 0 ohm copper wire.

    Kudos to you for intelligent diagnostics.
     
    Tegger, Dec 28, 2006
    #9
  10. Danny

    Danny Guest

    Tegger, yep I can get a picture, I'll get it tomorrow and send it to you?

    Dan
     
    Danny, Dec 29, 2006
    #10
  11. Danny

    Tegger Guest


    Please do.
     
    Tegger, Dec 29, 2006
    #11
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