97 Civic EX with sluggish problems

Hi gang - I've done some google searches trying to get some insight
into my cars issues.

The car is a 97 Civic EX with 163K miles on it. The timing belt was
replaced at 93K, and the first 140K were strictly highway miles.
After a visit to the dealer (and a revisit, I'm not thinking they have
the right clue) for routine maintenance, the car exhibited some
sluggishness and a more low runble when stepping hard on the gas. The
second visit they said it was possibly due to a bend in the muffler
that was odd, the mechanic rode with me and said "no, that's the way
they are." It was midly annoying, but I accepted what he told me and
moved on.

Over time, it appears to be getting worse. Today immediately after
filling the tank from near empty to full, 87 octane at a BP Amoco, the
rumble suddely appears a little louder and the car even more sluggish.

In the past I've had some strange issues with the car doing the
following which might be related: Say I'm pulling out into incoming
traffic and rather than shifting I rev higher than usual, past 5200
RPM or so to where I'm sure Vtec has kicked in. Going even closer to
redline (something I avoid since I have allll those miles on it) will
result in the car going completely bonkers about 20 seconds after the
RPMs return to a more sane amount (1500-3000 RPM). The check engine
light comes on, and the thing runs insanely rough so I pull over. If
I shut the car off, wait a few seconds, and turn it back on, it runs
okay (limp along mode). I can usually then reset the ECU (pull the
fuse for 10 seconds) and it then runs fine, no check engine light.
This problem is repeatable--if I tromp on the gas, it will do this
again. For that reason, I don't tromp hard on the gas--it's my daily
driver.

A few weeks ago on a somewhat humid day the car exhibited some
misfires and then ran very rough after sitting for 4+ hours in the
afternoon between my lunch and the end of the workday. The ECU reset
fixed it here again, and it ran fine and I drove it home.

Obviously the frequency of this is increasing. What should I be
looking at? Oil changes occur at every 4500 or so miles (sometimes
longer), but other than that the only work done on the car has been an
occasional dealer maintenance visit. I cannot tell you the last time I
did plugs, wires, etc--I'm thinking maybe at 130K? Should I begin
there, or are we talking o2 sensor (which one, or both?), fuel filter,
or something entirely different?

I cannot think my experiences are all that unique.

Gratz in advance,

Eddie

 

if you had a $100 code reader, youd know the cause. if you lived in the
LA area, id read it for $20.

 

======================

Did things start getting worse after the timing Belt change?

I agree with SoCalMike . . . those codes are there for information, not
irritation. You don't just toss them in the bit bucket, you use them to
diagnose your FINE auto's problems.

'Curly'

 

I don't disagree with you at all. However, when faced with calling a
tow truck or resetting the car so I can drive on, I usually reset the
ECU.

The problem was not post timing belt change. It was probably 45k+
miles afterwards.

I'll see if I can get the codes. Right now the car is running
sluggish, more of a rumble like there's an exhaust leak (but not
really loud, visual inspection doesn't seem to indicate any
rust-through, etc). But, no error condition.

 

I think you need to do some basic diagnostics to get any sensible answer
here. Is the engine running lean or rich? Have the valve clearances been
checked and could they have been checked and set "badly" at the maintenance
visit? What was actually done at the maintenance visit? How is the
ignition *and* valve timing? You need to read the check engine code - use
a paper clip to jump the service connector, turn on the ignition and count
flashes.

Rgds, George Macdonald

"Just because they're paranoid doesn't mean you're not psychotic" - Who, me??

 

nice for a while, but eventually you have to solve the problem. it could
potentially become a bigger problem if left ignored.

well, aside from the pesky ECU light, which indicates an error condition

i forget which brand/model reader i have, but it was at pep boys for
$99, and autozone for $149. if you fix whats wrong, itll pay for itself
the first time out, compared to taking it to a dealer. and its good for
ALL OBDII cars.

 

i thought that didnt work on OBDII. if so, i coulda saved $100 by not
buying a code reader.

it was really cool just to have it tell me

"P0135- primary heated O2 sensor heater malfunction"

that kinda narrowed things down a bit! and the helm manual helped
confirm the diagnosis on which sensor, and which wires to check.

 

Those codes would be a huge help. My first guess would be, bad gas.

Pars
98 DX Hatch

 

Right now there is no ECU light. No check engine, etc. I'll look
into getting a tester and recreating the error condition so I have
something to read.

 

I suspect that, too, because it really got bad after filling an empty
tank. I filled at a station I don't normally visit. I'll fiddle with
the car this weekend.

 

It works with earlier OBDII systems - my '99 Integra has the two position
connector and the manual shows DTC codes for the flashes; the 2K Accord
doesn't have it.

Yeah I'll have to get one of those code readers one of those days. Any
recommendations?

Rgds, George Macdonald

"Just because they're paranoid doesn't mean you're not psychotic" - Who, me??

 

http://www.georeviews.com/Actron-CP9135--OBDII-AutoScanner_L52703/

definately worth the $99 i paid. i was thinking bout starting a side
business, driving around shutting off peoples CEL's and reading codes
for em. dunno if theres any money in that, but it wouldnt be a bad way
to spend a friday and saturday afternoon, since im off. $20 a pop, tell
em what the code is, what it says, and shut the light off. so that way
they at least know, if they go get it fixed.