97 Civic front brake lockup problems...

Discussion in 'Civic' started by spikeman84, Jun 27, 2005.

  1. spikeman84

    spikeman84 Guest

    Hey all,

    Please help if you have any suggestions. I, along with every mechanic
    I have seen, are completely confused.

    I have a 97 civic. Whenever I drive my car and use the brakes
    moderately, my front brakes start to drag after awhile. This only
    happens if I use them and they start to warm up. They don't severely
    drag, but enough to require 2 hands to move the front wheels when the
    car is immediately jacked up and put into neutral. If you wait about
    20 min or so (whenever they cool off) they free up and you can spin
    them with one hand, no problem. I have replaced the following in
    search of the problem with no success:

    Master cylinder, calipers, rotors, hoses. (all new parts by an ase
    mechanic)

    I don't know what else there is?!?!? One mechanic said it might be the
    distributor valve (after the master) but he says it's so rare that is
    bad that its not even an aftermarket part. My rear breaks are fine
    after I warm them up, only the front are sticking. Also, if you
    release the presure in the valve when they are sticking, it will free
    up. The piston on the calipers are free and great. It seems to be a
    pressure problem somewhere. The right side is just slightly worse than
    the left.

    Please help with any suggestions!!! I'm dragging my brakes all day long
    (once I heat them up)- although the wear on my pads and rotors have
    been minimal after replacing them a year ago- little warping
    (amazing!).

    Thanks SOOO MUCH!
     
    spikeman84, Jun 27, 2005
    #1
  2. spikeman84

    TeGGeR® Guest

    wrote in


    Has anyone checked the master cylinder pushrod? Too little freeplay will
    cause exacty what you describe.

    http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mastercylinderreplace/adjustment.html
     
    TeGGeR®, Jun 27, 2005
    #2
  3. spikeman84

    spikeman84 Guest

    Tegger,

    Thanks for the suggestion but I don't think that's the problem. First
    off, it's diffidently a pressure problem, so you covered that, but it
    is also a heat issue, which the push rod doesn't address. I can sit in
    my car parked in the parking lot (when the brakes are cool) and
    continuously pump my breaks and then check them again and they are
    fine. So the pressure issue is not solely a pressure issue, it is a
    heat issue that is causing pressure.

    Here are what several different Honda techs had suggested. They don't
    all make sense to me but let me know what you think about each one:

    1)The fluid is contaminated. There is dirt or moisture in the fluid.
    The fluid is not bleeding out of the calipers as fast as normal because
    of the change in composition of fluid. Recommendation: vacuum flush
    the lines, all 4. --- the only thing about this is I would have a
    spongy pedal if it was contaminated, which I do not have. I have the
    opposite which is the brakes are engaged too much.

    2)The hoses are weathered and the rubber inside are expanding as the
    fluid temp rises, which chokes the fluid from releasing but as the
    fluid cools they release and bleed. --- the only thing with this is the
    right front hose is brand new. The left one is not stiff (stiffness is
    sign of a bad hose) Also, the right wheel drags a lot more than the
    left, though both do drag. (sorry for not including that earlier).

    3)the proportioning block's front valves have either been contaminated
    or a wearing so that the gaskets are not operating correctly. --- the
    thing is that this is a very rare problem. They don't even make
    aftermarket proportioning blocks because it's so rare. Most Techs have
    never heard of replacing this, unless they work 20+ years and they have
    maybe replace one or 2 tops.


    Those are the only things that the Honda techs can suggest, all from a
    different Honda dealership. Just to clarify that it is a pressure
    problem, the slides are greased, the pistons are free, and most
    importantly the bleeder valve when opened will completely solve the
    problem immediately.

    To re-affirm the heat problem, I will not get pressure build up in the
    parking lot pumping cold brakes, and it wont even build up if I drive
    down the street to a neighbors house <1 mile away. It has to be about
    6-10 complete stops from at least 25 mph-> hence the heat will begin to
    occur in the break line.

    I don't have 1500 to do all 3 of these suggestions. It's a 97 civic.
    It's just not worth it cuz something else is bound to need fixing soon.
    I would like to do one and get it done with. Which seems most
    logical? Do you think it is something else? What is your logic?

    Anyone else please feel free to give input. I have stumped so many
    Honda techs and so many brake specialists that I'm bout ready to sell
    the car and just start with another one (even though I love my car and
    don't wana part with it).


    Thanks!!

    Mike
     
    spikeman84, Jul 1, 2005
    #3
  4. spikeman84

    jim beam Guest

    i'm with tegger on this one. you say you don't "think" the pushrod
    adjustment is the problem but you don't say you've checked it & you
    don't say what the free travel is.

    as the system warms up, calipers from brake operation & general fluid
    from engine heat, the fluid expansion occurs. master cylinders have an
    expansion return valve - a tiny hole that is open when the pistons are
    in their resting position. for braking, as soon as you press the pedal,
    the piston seals move past this hole and pressure starts to build for
    braking operation. for heat expansion, if the free travel is not
    adjusted right, the master cylinder pistons/seals will not be fully
    parked fully back in their resting position, so there's no way the fluid
    can expand without increasing pressure in the system [unless the seals
    are leaking]. i don't know what the free travel spec is on your car,
    but you need to check it. on my 89 civic, book spec is 1mm-5mm of free
    travel. to emphasize, that's /free/ travel, /not/ travel before the
    pedal goes rock hard.

    it's most unlikely to be the proportioning valve because that /does/
    allow 2-way fluid flow.
     
    jim beam, Jul 1, 2005
    #4
  5. spikeman84

    TeGGeR® Guest

    wrote in


    Yes it does!!

    HAVE YOU CHECKED THE FREEPLAY?

    Go here:
    http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#brakes

    See the three down at the bottom? Take a look at them, especially the
    second from bottom, which takes you here:
    http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mastercylinderreplace/howworks.html

    If you check the pedal's freeplay and there is some present, then the
    pushrod is not the problem. But this is your first culprit before anything
    else is suspected.
     
    TeGGeR®, Jul 1, 2005
    #5
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