'98 Accord, New Brakes, Advice?

Hi Group,

It is time for new brake pads on my favorite Honda. I've read the FAQ,
nice job Tegger.

Any Other advice?

The dealer wants $112 for two wheels, front or rear, and I've been told
to expect pads to cost around $60. This does not include rebuilding
calipers, which he doesn't do without cause(leaks etc).

I'm a decent wrench, with normal backyard tools, so am considering doing
it myself.

There is also a TSB #03078, regarding the brake light. I believe it
involves replacing a filter at the reservoir. Has anyone done this?


Al G

 

You can do it youself by following a generic manual. It's better to use
genuine Honda pads.

Wl

 

honda brakes are soooooo easy to do forget paying someone

put the saved $$$$ toward new slotted / drilled bremo rotors and maybe
carbon matalic pads like i did

you will stop firmer / little quicker

got my rotors off ebay + very happy so far

 

Buy Honda, little more expense, but worth it! Check with the manual, but
remove the bottom caliper bolt, swing up the caliper, remove the old pads
put in the new with the shims, swing down caliper, put bolt back in and you
are done!
Forgot, the c clamp to push the pistons back in.

The master cyl filter, simple...also replace the float!, the new filter has
2 slots on
top, for proper venting, no more BRAKE light!

 

Thanks, I always feel better about getting into a job after talking with
someone who has done it.

Al G

 

I did the brake pads on my '98 Accord this weekend, and learned a couple
of things.

The generic manual did not work. It gives a procedure for the front
brakes, but does not mention anything about the rear brakes which are
different. The rear calipers don't swing up, the e brake mechanism is in
the way. Also, the calipers can't be opened with a clamp or caliper
spreaders like the front. They are threaded, and required yet another
"special" tool.
Nice thing to find out after your transportation is spread out all over the
carport.

A little more expensive? $118 for the pads alone. In general I don't
mind spending a little more for Honda parts. They fit, they work, and they
provide the wear indicator that saved me damage to my disks.

Apparently the '98 is not affected by this TSB(03078). The '98 has no
filter. The TSB procedure requires replacing the float, which solved my
problem.


It took me several hours using the POS scissors jack, and the stock lug
wrench. I believe that if I had access to air tools and a lift, I could have
done it much quicker. The dealer wants $224 in labor, which seems absurd to
me.

My local parts shop that sent me home with an $18 caliper spreader that
didn't work on the rear, and a $20 manual that didn't say shit, has earned a
new place in my heart. I'm a pilot, and if anyone is hurt by a falling
"Generic" Honda manual, come see me.

Al G

 

Check out the Pep Boys' line of Haynes. Those tell you to use a plier
to turn the rear pistons. Some in this group use a large screwdriver.
However, your local Harbor Freight has a set of caliper retracting
tool kit on sale now for $19.99 (reg $29.99). That's what I got for a
variety of cars. The flat disc works on regular calipers. Then you
pick the pronged disc that fits the rear piston pattern and turn.
Much better than the cube type tool. Don't try the cubes I'll say.


http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=40732
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=239

Note: you can borrow these (many other tools too like a torque wrench)
at many AutoZones, Kragen, Advanced Auto, Murray's and Pep Boys free
(with deposit).

$118 for the Honda pads alone? The ones I've seen are usually around
$50 a set (axle). I personally don't care for the Nissin, Findlex and
something else I can't remember Honda is using these days. I'd go for
the Akebono ProAct ceramic. Comes with (adhesive) noise shims already
applied (on the later kits).

www.akebonobrakes.com

Agreed. Brake jobs are usually farmed out to the rookie mechanic:
those who just graduated from oil changes making minimum wage. The
service manager takes a cut of the difference between what you hand
them and what they hand the mechanic. That way they make real $$$$$
and build nice waiting areas.

What "Generic" manual did you get? And the $18 spreader?

I'd also flush the system with 1qt of Castrol GT LMA (Low Moisture
Activity) or Valvoline Syntec brake fluids. Good stuff. Didn't care
for the CCI brake fluids made for Asian imports -- absorbs moisture
too easily and after a while gets bad lubricity (squeaky master
cylinder).

Use a PowerBleeder for fast one-person brake bleeding.
www.motiveproducts.com