98 Accord Transmission oil Drain Plug problem

Hi,

I wanted to change the automatic transmission fluid in my 98 accord 6
cylinder. I felt the process pretty straight forward, drain with the
drain plug open, fill through the ATF filler bold (6 cylinder models).
The problem started when I tried to unscrew the ATF drain plug. This
plug is soo tight that it refuses to budge at all. Did anyone have any
problems removing this bolt ? I assume that the bolt is unscrewed
anti-clockwise. I am feeling to believe that the bolt unscrews in
clockwise motion.. is this a true assumption.. ?

Since the ratchet is directly used to loosen the bolt, after a little
struggle, the bolt head gave in and now the bolt head is deformed.. so
disappointing to see that a simple ATF oil change can be so hard..

Any thoughts.. ?

-- John

 

It is RIGHTY TIGHTY, LEFTY LOOSIE unless for special apps. Your drain
plug unscrews counter clockwise or to the left as you face the bolt.
Generally it is better to take a hammer and rap the end of the wrench
rather than muscle it off. That was the only way mine would come off.
Didn't tighten it that much so now it will come off a lot easier.

If the bolt head is deformed, it may have to be drilled out or the oil
pan removed to get at the bolt. Not pretty. I guess the worst would
be a new oil pan - you will have to buy a gasket and a new drain plug
as they come seperate.

 

A garage will use an air chisel to rotate the rounded head until the bolt
comes out. No big deal.

OP should be using correct tools. Wonder what he used? Imperial socket?

 

I have used a regular 3/8th inch rachet bought at Kragen's. I think the
company name is something like powerglide or poweredge, don't remeber
it. Looked like a good ratchet.

-- John.

 

I have used a regular 3/8th inch rachet bought at Kragen's. I think the
company name is something like powerglide or poweredge, don't remeber
it. Looked like a good ratchet.

-- John.

 

-----------------------------

This is an automatic Honda tranny . . I expect there is no 'oil pan'.
The threaded part is part of the tranny housing.

Very bad, maybe :-(

'Curly'

 

Yes, but what size *socket* did you put on the ratchet? And was it a six-
point (hex) or 12-point (starburst)?

 

Either should have worked, unless John used an SAE socket size or
a previous mechanic used an air wrench. Are you the orig owner?
Did you use a proper metric socket size?

If the points on the head are now rounded off, you need a special box
wrench that exerts force on the flats of the hex head. Snap-on calls
this special shaped box wrench Flank Drive, Craftsman, Headlock. If
the wrenches are not long enough to provide adequate leverage, you
might consider getting these special patterns in a socket (if
available) and using a breaker bar.

nb

 

That's what I wonder.

Also, a 12-pointer is easier to strip.

Good sharp air chisel will have even the roundest bolt spun out in no time.

You can also MIG-weld a new bolt to the old one, and use the new one to
attack the old. Works really well.

 

Even a cold chisel and ball-peen will do the trick. In fact, I'd
prefer the non-air approach. More control.

nb

 

-----------------------------------

What are you guys talking about !!!!!!! The tranny drain plug is an
INTERNAL 3/8" SQUARE FEMALE reciever, where you stick a ratchet handle,
without using a socket. It sounds like he didn't have it 'bottomed' when
he was torqueing on it, or the ratchet metal is cheap.

I'd get a good T-handle, or ratchet and stick it in better (tapping it
in if necessary), then whack the handle with a 2.5' piece of 4 x 4. I
did it to my rear differential on my CR-V a few weeks ago and it went
great. No, I don't have air tools

'Curly'

 

Curly is right, there are no sockets that I can use. I directly used
the 3/8" ratchet into it. I thought I bottomed it, the bolt was soo
hard that I had to hit with a hammer, the entire inner part pretty much
got rounded with my hammering it.

-- John.

 

<emily-litella> Ohhhh....Never mind. </emily-litella>

Why the hell didn't I pick up on that one? I change my manual tranny fluid
every year. One of the plugs also has a 3/8" square hole.

Or the hole was filled with dirt/corrosion and the ratchet wouldn't go in
all the way.

 

Again, the dealer can buzz that out quick with an air chisel.

Might cost you $40 or so.

Now that I'm aware that your plug is a hollow square, what probably
happened here is that aluminum corrosion locked the bolt in place. This
will occur if the bolt is never disturbed.

 

It bottoms out but probably came out during hammering. I normally
secure the wrench or socket with a pipe (pushed onto the wrench)
before hitting.

 

I can get it loose with a chisel and hammer. Done it often.

 

My own tranny bolt is usually a very tight fit on the ratchet, and I remove
that bolt once per year. It's got a skin of corrosion on it that prevents
the ratchet's square from seating properly.

As well, the spring-loaded ball in the square adds to the seating
resistance, so you need to wiggle and push until it's on there properly.

15 years and I haven't stripped one yet.

 

The drain bolt on the automatic usually takes some effort to break loose.
On my Odyssey the simplest way to get it out was to stick an impact
extension in the bolt hole to extend it out past the wheel, then use the 4
foot piece of gas pipe on the breaker bar. Piece of cake to get it out once
you have the leverage. It will pop loose all at once then screw easily.
Given the force it takes, I wouldn't think pounding on it would work very
well.