99 honda accord, loss of power

Good Morning all
Hope you can help or at least point me in the right direction. I have
a 99 honda Accord, 4cyl VTEC.
car starts great, runs well, idles fine.... just no power, acually
midrange. I try to get on the highway... it just cant get out of its
own way. but once i get up to 65-70...it will run fine, then hit a
small grade... it just can't keep up.No check engine lite, so does this
mean not an emmissions problem? or a non sensor problem?

I did try injector cleanner, and better gas... no differance, changed
air filter, still the same.The car has apox 131K miles

thanks for your help
Jeff

 

when was the timing belt changed? if it wasn't tensioned correctly it's
skipped a tooth.

 

When was a full tuneup (air filter, fuel filter, ignition
wires, plugs, distributor cap and rotor replaced, timing
checked) last done? Were OEM parts used for these?

While the fuel filter is not commonly a problem, nonetheless
depending on your response to the above, I would suspect it
and replace it first.

Like you suspect, if the oxygen sensor is not working right,
you really should have a check engine light with a code
indicating the same for this model of car, plus other
symptoms.

 

....hate to say... have NOT had the belt replaced...yet. (on the list of
things to do)

tune up was done about 30k when i got the car, however I didnt replace
the wires.(OEM was NOT used) But i did use, I believe Sorenson parts. I
have NOT replaced the fuel filter, mainly because.. I dont know were it
is located.
I will do some parts replacing tonite fuel filter, wires,.. timming
belt over the weekend w/ waterpump.
I did think about the tune up, but it doesnt miss or sputter, so I
kinda ruled that out.Looks like i will start there and hopefully it
will run like a champ as it did before.

thanks again all

Jeff

 

I would do these, with the fuel filter, at the same time.
This may very well result in significant improvement
immediately.

FWIW, there are several free web sites, typically with
drawings, that might help you with locating this. Maybe
peruse the list at
http://home.earthlink.net/~honda.lioness/id9.html , for
starters.

If the timing belt is due, sure, get it done, because one
rolls the dice on destroying the engine with a failed TB
otherwise. But I doubt it's behind the problem you
described.

 

Another cause of loss of power that is often overlooked is a plugged
catalytic converter though in this case would be an early occurrence.

JT

 

Well i looked up the fuel filter.... well its in the tank..
so im not sure if that will be the problem... basicaly a screen...

 

Oops. I was thinking of older Hondas, whose maintenance
schedules do specify fuel filter replacement every 60k miles
or so. Your 99 Accord's maintenance schedule has no such
specification. I recall the filter not being where it is (on
your Accord) for older Hondas, too. So, yes, I'd let this go
for now, and keep investigating the other possible causes.

 

i just picked up a set of new plug wires ( originals were still on)put
new set on....maybe a litte better but NOT THE PROBLEM. looked over
wires ,vacum hoses,...could it be a cat converter...
ok im throwing out a sugestion.. could i have a transmission problem
not letting it shift properly..

 

HERE IT IS.....Your catalytic convertor is clogged or collapesed. Have
someone hit the gas while you are at the tailpipe.....if not
strong.....there it is.

 

Spark plugs still the originals? Replace them with NGK's.
NGK is one of the brands the 99 Accord owner's manual does
recommend, and which many here use. Plugs are due for
replacement at 30k miles/2 years for 4-cyl 99 Accords, so...
IIRC twice this year people's bad running problems were
simply due to needing new OEM plugs and/or wires. That
ignition timing check should be done, too. New distributor
cap and rotor are desirable as well. To start from a
baseline.

Automatic transmission fluid problems (being behind tranny
shifting problems) do come up a lot here for late 90s
Hondas. Specifically, it's very important to use Honda ATF,
and change it per a recommended interval which I think may
not be accurate in the owner's manual for some Honda models,
if memory serves. Not my thing, though. Curly Q. Links, for
one, is one of the regulars here who can discuss it. Or
google the newsgroup archive for his posts on automatic
tranny fluid in Hondas.

Maybe JT ("Grumpy") can elaborate on the cat converter being
behind the problems.

When you get a chance, check the coolant level in the
reservoir, and top off per the owner's manual. Keep an eye
on it, and continue topping off until it reads from day to
day what the owner's manual says. Your Accord's cooling
system may be full of air, which the sensors for the system
(sending signals to the car's computer) do not expect, so
their signals can be messed up. But this is not my first
candidate for the cause; just something else to eliminate
completely.

 

I would think the secondary O2 sensor would say something
about this, since it's supposed to monitor cat converter
performance, no? Yet the Accord seems to have no codes.

Not ruling your and JT's proposal out. Just trying to learn.

 

Ok upon more checking.... i got under the car as my son reved and let
off the gas... i have a lot of noise (rattling)coming from
the,,,,,,,,,C A T

Does honda have a rev limiter so you cant over rev when in park? i can
get it up to 4K and it starts poping , and also has a slight hesitation
when you hit the gas quick...\

thats the update....

 

If it's the converter, please let me know. I seen many instances where
a tired/plugged one was a real power robber.

JT

 

-------------------------------------------

You can remove the primary O2 sensor and see if power goes way up. It
allows trapped exhaust gasses to escape, giving more power (if CAT is
actually plugged). Same can be accomplished by putting the springs in
wrong way so they hold the flanges apart, rather than together.

I have the T-shirt.

'Curly'

 

Hi Folks

Many times it can be a worn out piston ring or valve. Many Honda's have
this problem and many will say, "but I see no black smoke". Many times
the smoke will not there.

Are you noticing loss of oil after every few 1000 miles?

Good luck.

 

no oil loss, about 1/2 qt every 35-4K
tonite im going to do the .. pull the upper O2 sensor and see if
performance improves... hope that works

more i get into this thing,seem the top end is were the problem is.. it
will hang at 4-6K RPM and i have to let off the gas to get it to shift
up... like the old passing gear in the good old days..


Jeff

 

OK GRUMPY...CURLY.....
the verdict........................................................ CAT

I pulled the front O2 sensor out, started it up, took it out for a
short run...there was a differance, so i came back to the garage, was
going to pull it off clear out the ceramic till i could get another
CAT.. well bolts rusted up out of Acetalyne, so i just shook it, yup
it's messed up.Looks like I will just let the muffer place do it now..

I want to thank all that helped get this honda fixed.. well diagnosed
for now.
Hope this may help some one else in the future

Jeff

 

What caused it to clog seems an important question, though.
Some ideas:
http://www.thepartsbin.com/catalytic_converters.html

http://stores.ebay.com/Xtremeflow-Motorsports/About-Catalytic-Converters.html

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question482.htm

All cite or tend to point to among other things a defective
O2 sensor or failure to do regular tuneups. Point being
incorrect fuel/air mixtures in the engine cylinders exhaust
bad (whatever) to the cat converter.

"PB Blaster" is a great penetrating oil that typically helps
a lot with exhaust system bolts.