A/C pipe leaking freon

guys,

I've got an A/C pipe leaking Freon ( the one in front the evaporator ) on
Honda '93 accord.
It's actually a tiny hole in it and hate an idea of spending $300-$400 to
get it replaced .
Is it possible to seal it with the stuff like a liquid aluminium or smth.
like that and refill the system?

thanks

 

Where exactly is this pipe? Do you hear freon escaping? Since it is a
'93, is it R12? If it were R134a I would certainly try a patch. If it is
R12 you'll pay through the nose to get the system recharged. Then if the
patch doesn't hold, you'll get to pay for it all over again.

4 - 5 years ago my brother's '87 started leaking R12. He bit the bullet
and had it properly repaired and recharged with R12. Still holding, and
he's happy he had it repaired properly.

 

Where exactly is this pipe? Do you hear freon escaping? Since it is a
'93, is it R12? If it were R134a I would certainly try a patch. If it is
R12 you'll pay through the nose to get the system recharged. Then if the
patch doesn't hold, you'll get to pay for it all over again.

4 - 5 years ago my brother's '87 started leaking R12. He bit the bullet
and had it properly repaired and recharged with R12. Still holding, and
he's happy he had it repaired properly.

 

You can't patch it. Welding might work but no welder in his right mind
is going to heat up anything that might contain traces of Freon. You'd
have to completely remove it. You might as well pull a condenser from a
junkyard.

 

You can't patch it. Welding might work but no welder in his right mind
is going to heat up anything that might contain traces of Freon. You'd
have to completely remove it. You might as well pull a condenser from a
junkyard.

 

I have successfully repaired pinholes in aluminum, including one A/C high
side pipe, with JB Weld. But the pressure has to be completely relieved -
pulling a vacuum is best - and the area has to be 100% oil free. Brake
cleaner is good for prepping the area, and a dab of JB Weld is all you need.

Before you get excited about it, have you determined why the pinhole
developed? Others may be in the works.

Mike

 

I have successfully repaired pinholes in aluminum, including one A/C high
side pipe, with JB Weld. But the pressure has to be completely relieved -
pulling a vacuum is best - and the area has to be 100% oil free. Brake
cleaner is good for prepping the area, and a dab of JB Weld is all you need.

Before you get excited about it, have you determined why the pinhole
developed? Others may be in the works.

Mike

 

Where did you get the $300-$400 figure from? I wouldn't think that pipe or
hose is more than $50-$60. Would it cost more than an hours labor to drawn
down the system and replace the hose/pipe? I wouldn't think so.
If you do the job, convert to R134A while you have the system evacuated. It
will cost you less now and in the future. The valves necessary to convert
are much more than $5-$10 each and R134A should be not more than $20-$30 to
recharge your system. You DO NOT need any other parts to convert providing
your a/c system is in decent shape. The difference in the freon types should
pay for your labor alone and save you on any future a/c work. You'll need a
new receiver/dryer for maybe $60 also. Add up even the high ends and I think
you'll find it less than you think, unless of course there' more to the
repair than you indicate.
Howard

 

Where did you get the $300-$400 figure from? I wouldn't think that pipe or
hose is more than $50-$60. Would it cost more than an hours labor to drawn
down the system and replace the hose/pipe? I wouldn't think so.
If you do the job, convert to R134A while you have the system evacuated. It
will cost you less now and in the future. The valves necessary to convert
are much more than $5-$10 each and R134A should be not more than $20-$30 to
recharge your system. You DO NOT need any other parts to convert providing
your a/c system is in decent shape. The difference in the freon types should
pay for your labor alone and save you on any future a/c work. You'll need a
new receiver/dryer for maybe $60 also. Add up even the high ends and I think
you'll find it less than you think, unless of course there' more to the
repair than you indicate.
Howard

 

It's important to note some receiver/driers and even some compressor seals
are not compatible with the R-134a system. Once upon a time I saw a table of
cars and whether the receiver/drier had to be replaced when converting, but
I don't know where it was. In general, I don't recommend DIY conversions -
I've rebuilt an engine and do nearly all my own work, but I hired out the
conversion on our Volvo. For more by-the-ways (including legal
restrictions), see
http://autorepair.about.com/cs/generalinfo/a/aa060301a_4.htm

My daughter's '93 LX uses R-12 (label under the hood, passenger side) so I
imagine this one does also. I don't plan to convert unless it is absolutely
necessary - fewer unknowns that way.

Mike

 

It's important to note some receiver/driers and even some compressor seals
are not compatible with the R-134a system. Once upon a time I saw a table of
cars and whether the receiver/drier had to be replaced when converting, but
I don't know where it was. In general, I don't recommend DIY conversions -
I've rebuilt an engine and do nearly all my own work, but I hired out the
conversion on our Volvo. For more by-the-ways (including legal
restrictions), see
http://autorepair.about.com/cs/generalinfo/a/aa060301a_4.htm

My daughter's '93 LX uses R-12 (label under the hood, passenger side) so I
imagine this one does also. I don't plan to convert unless it is absolutely
necessary - fewer unknowns that way.

Mike

 

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. But if your Honda ever needed a/c repair
don't hesitate to convert.
I've literally seen hundreds of Hondas converted by this simple method with
no effect except for saving some money now and in the future. If the system
is non-leaking and of good quality, the only thing to change are the high
and low side valves and a receiver/dryer. Evacuate the system and add R134A.
BTW, I stand corrected on some of my prices in my earlier post on the cost
of repairing HND's Accord. The pipe and the rec/drier are a little more than
I suggested. The pipe is in the $90's and the rec/drier is a little over
$100. Still the price of the repair and the conversion is well under HND's
concerns.
Howard

 

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. But if your Honda ever needed a/c repair
don't hesitate to convert.
I've literally seen hundreds of Hondas converted by this simple method with
no effect except for saving some money now and in the future. If the system
is non-leaking and of good quality, the only thing to change are the high
and low side valves and a receiver/dryer. Evacuate the system and add R134A.
BTW, I stand corrected on some of my prices in my earlier post on the cost
of repairing HND's Accord. The pipe and the rec/drier are a little more than
I suggested. The pipe is in the $90's and the rec/drier is a little over
$100. Still the price of the repair and the conversion is well under HND's
concerns.
Howard

 

the fact is - A/C system is empty now and I've got an estimation from
mechanic $110 (CAD) for the pipe + labour ( bumper removal etc) + $120
system refill.
He didn't say anything about conversion though. So I would guess it's even
more.
I would like to try patching with JB Weld but Canadian Tire doesn't carry
it .
They have liquid aluminium there.
Is it the same stuff?

Pinhole developed because of the contact that pipe had with the other one
below
( I guess it's a galvanic effect) .

thanks guys for your input. I appreciate.

 

the fact is - A/C system is empty now and I've got an estimation from
mechanic $110 (CAD) for the pipe + labour ( bumper removal etc) + $120
system refill.
He didn't say anything about conversion though. So I would guess it's even
more.
I would like to try patching with JB Weld but Canadian Tire doesn't carry
it .
They have liquid aluminium there.
Is it the same stuff?

Pinhole developed because of the contact that pipe had with the other one
below
( I guess it's a galvanic effect) .

thanks guys for your input. I appreciate.

 

No - JB Weld is a brand of steel-filled epoxy. Pretty much any steel-filled
epoxy will do the same thing. It is available at most hardware stores in a
variety of forms, from slow set to very quick set. All take about 24 hours
to develop full strength. I haven't used liquid aluminum, but if it is
aluminum-filled epoxy it should be pretty similar.

Then I think it's worth a try. Be sure there is no pressure inside to try to
bubble up through the epoxy - applying it at night when the temperature is
already dropping should do the trick - and be sure there is no trace of oil
on the pipe.

 

No - JB Weld is a brand of steel-filled epoxy. Pretty much any steel-filled
epoxy will do the same thing. It is available at most hardware stores in a
variety of forms, from slow set to very quick set. All take about 24 hours
to develop full strength. I haven't used liquid aluminum, but if it is
aluminum-filled epoxy it should be pretty similar.

Then I think it's worth a try. Be sure there is no pressure inside to try to
bubble up through the epoxy - applying it at night when the temperature is
already dropping should do the trick - and be sure there is no trace of oil
on the pipe.

 

I have a 1993 Accord, and my A/C began to fail a few weeks ago.
I brought my car to my mechanic yesterday. He converted to R134
and he detected a very slight slight leak in the evaporator. He
he said the evaporator repair would cost $250, but he recommended
that I try an A/C sealant instead.

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/CLP-946KIT.html

My mechanic said that of all the types of work he does on Hondas,
A/C repair has the highest rate of returns for recurring problems.
He said there are hundereds of places the A/C system could be
developing leaks and the best approach would be to try the sealant
first.

The R134 system is works well and is quite cold.

Andrew

 

I have a 1993 Accord, and my A/C began to fail a few weeks ago.
I brought my car to my mechanic yesterday. He converted to R134
and he detected a very slight slight leak in the evaporator. He
he said the evaporator repair would cost $250, but he recommended
that I try an A/C sealant instead.

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/CLP-946KIT.html

My mechanic said that of all the types of work he does on Hondas,
A/C repair has the highest rate of returns for recurring problems.
He said there are hundereds of places the A/C system could be
developing leaks and the best approach would be to try the sealant
first.

The R134 system is works well and is quite cold.

Andrew

 

They certainly do. Try a different store.