Accord heater control valve

My daughter's '93 Accord is having heater control problems. The temperature
control knob is cracked now, as a result of too much torque to adjust the
temperature. I pulled the control panel out last week to check out the
mechanism, and with the cable disconnected it worked okay. Today I replaced
the heater control valve, but found the new valve has about the same feel as
the old one. That only leaves the control cable. Anybody have experience
with that?

Mike

 

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Could be somebody lubed it with something dino-based? Graphite is about
the only thing (or light silicone) that works well on them because of
cold. Locksmiths / hardwares sell an aerosol graphite spray called
LockEase. Small blue can. Great for ignition and door locks, but messy
on pants. Wipe off excess from keys, etc.

'Curly'

 

I hadn't considered that the previous owner may have used WD-40 or similar.
The control was stiff when we bought it 3 years ago.

I've had run-ins with various locks that were squirted with WD-40. They work
great for a year or so, then start getting really stiff. I've used Lock-Ease
before and it works well on anything that hasn't been WD-40'd. On contact
with WD-40 residue almost any solvent (or dry graphite) hardens the residue.
I have never been able to flush the goo out and the only thing that works at
that stage is more WD-40. The device essentially becomes addicted to WD-40.
I don't know what happens after a number of years that way.

Anyway, I can get to the valve end of the cable easily enough. My plan will
be to slip a piece of tubing over the end and tie it to the cable sheath,
spray a healthy bit of Lock-Ease into the tube and apply a bit of air
pressure from my mouth to coax it up the cable. If that fails, I'll plan on
replacing the cable. I could pull it out and fiddle with it, but I doubt the
price of a new cable is very high.

Thanks!

Mike

 

Michael Pardee wrote:
My plan will

Let us know if that works. I've replaced about eight of those knobs
over the years since I bought my '92 Accord. bob

 

From experience, the only thing that will help on a permanent basis is a new
cable. And yes, they are cheap enough, under $10 if memory serves.
Howard

 

That's good to hear. I tried the Lock-Ease thing (although a simple squirt
at the exposed end was enough to break that end free), but still no joy.
Originally I couldn't move the cable at all by twisting the valve end, but
now it moves. However, the knob still moves a bit then jams, while the valve
end doesn't move at all. I imagine the cable is binding in the middle, and
once I get the controller out *again* it is probably as easy to replace the
cable as to fuss with it any more.

Also, thanks to N.E.Ohio Bob - I hoped the knobs were available separately
and now I know how to approach the problem. New knob, new cable. Couple
hours disassembling and reassembling. Daughter happy again....

Mike

 

Same thing with my '92. Currently using an old radio knob. Doesn't
look too great, but it's lasted for almost two years.

 

I'd still be concerned about excessive torque, though. The gear mechanism
the knob turns is plastic.

Mike

 

Had this problem many times on my 91 Accord, the problem is NOT the cable
but the adjustment of the control cable at the heater box located beneath
the glove box please refer to this website for adjustments.
http://www.honda.co.uk/owner/AccordManual/index.html

 

I once owned a 93 Accord and replaced that control knob at least once per
year. I always purchased two and kept one in the tool box. I found out
that the control knob for the 96 and 97 Accord looked almost the same so I
purchased one of the those and it lasted about two years so you might want
to do the same thing.

 

You're on my Christmas list, Grahame! I found the box (actually at the
bottom of the center part), even though my Haynes manual doesn't even
mention it exists. Access to the control cables is by prying out the
button-like fastener near the passenger's left ankle (LH drive vehicle) and
then pulling out the small duct it held. Once I unfastened the cable to the
controller and the cable to the valve and verified each worked smoothly, it
was pretty simple to fasten the cables back down with the correct
adjustments. My daughter is happy again.

The valve cable clearly had frozen near the valve, and a squirt of Lock-Ease
and a little bit of working freed it. I suppose the torque required to fight
that originally got the cable adjustments out of whack.

Mike

 

I just saw your posting from last month, and I had the same problem
with my 93 Accord. I went through many knobs I got from Honda that
kept cracking. Finally I tried NAPA, and their replacement knob has
lasted over a year through a Minnesota winter when everything is
stiff. It must just be stronger plastic, and less brittle.

Bill

 

Good deal - I'll have to give that a try. BTW, be aware the mechanism the
knob attaches to is a nylon-looking rack and pinion assembly that drives the
cable. There is always some resistance to turning, but if you have to strain
it may endanger that hard to replace and probably expensive part.

The heat control box mechanism the cable controls is at the bottom of the
console, but is easily accessible from the passenger's side (assuming left
hand drive) by removing IIRC one screw that holds the vent by the
passenger's left foot. The vent then can be worked out, and goes back
together about as easily. The mechanism is pretty obvious as you lie on your
back, and you can unfasten both cables to check the ease of operation of
each part.

Mike