Advice wanted - Should it stay or should it go?

You bring up a good point regarding putting a good drive train into a
rust free body. If I were the original poster, I would look for a rust
free body from Texas, Arizona or southern California that might be
drivable to his location.

JT

(Who will be putting a rust free '82 Civic on eBay soon...<g>)

 

The engine and tranny in my Accord are all original and working great. But
I am in Canada, so there may be complications in getting a rust-free body up
from the U.S. south.

Update: The loud exhaust note became even louder today (it's loud enough to
make a ricer proud), and fuel is now leaking ever so slightly from
underneath (near the front of the left rear tire). I'm going to get those
problems fixed tomorrow, even if it means going to any mechanic and getting
cheap (i.e. short-term) parts.

And then it looks like I will be looking for a newer car. *sigh*

Thanks for the responses.

 

The engine and tranny in my Accord are all original and working great. But
I am in Canada, so there may be complications in getting a rust-free body up
from the U.S. south.

Update: The loud exhaust note became even louder today (it's loud enough to
make a ricer proud), and fuel is now leaking ever so slightly from
underneath (near the front of the left rear tire). I'm going to get those
problems fixed tomorrow, even if it means going to any mechanic and getting
cheap (i.e. short-term) parts.

And then it looks like I will be looking for a newer car. *sigh*

Thanks for the responses.

 

I bet the loud exhaust note is loose hardware that is backing off. The most
likely location is at the collector flange, where the exhaust manifold
connects to the pipe. Since the exhaust work was just done, the mechanic
who did it should get first whack at making it right.

Otherwise... my favorite test technique (if you have a shop vac available)
is to start with a cold engine. Be sure the shop vac is empty and fit the
hose on the exhaust, then run the shop vac a minute to blow any loose grit
out. Duct tape the hose to the exhaust pipe and turn the shop vac on again.
Feel around the exhaust for the stream of air - it will be obvious when you
find it.

It would be good to get that taken care of quickly before the exhaust ruins
something. If it's the collector, the gasket is probably torched already.
Good thing they are cheap.

Mike

 

I bet the loud exhaust note is loose hardware that is backing off. The most
likely location is at the collector flange, where the exhaust manifold
connects to the pipe. Since the exhaust work was just done, the mechanic
who did it should get first whack at making it right.

Otherwise... my favorite test technique (if you have a shop vac available)
is to start with a cold engine. Be sure the shop vac is empty and fit the
hose on the exhaust, then run the shop vac a minute to blow any loose grit
out. Duct tape the hose to the exhaust pipe and turn the shop vac on again.
Feel around the exhaust for the stream of air - it will be obvious when you
find it.

It would be good to get that taken care of quickly before the exhaust ruins
something. If it's the collector, the gasket is probably torched already.
Good thing they are cheap.

Mike

 

I went through that with my '90 accord a couple of years ago. Lots of
stuff went south and needed to be replaced all in a short time frame.
Didn't cost quite that much as I did most of the work. Since then
I've had two years with no, non-routine maintenance. And I'm knocking
on wood as I type.

Tuth is you never know.

Frank

 

Update: The exhaust note resulted from a pair of holes in what the mechanic
referred to as a "front exhaust pipe". Not sure if this is the pipe you are
referring to, but it's the one that extends from the cat toward the front of
the car (this was not replaced when I had the muffler and cat replaced).
This set me back another $220.

Concerning the gas fumes, perhaps that was not fuel I saw on the ground
yesterday because nothing is leaking from underneath now. But the fumes
still remain.

My father suggested to wait until next spring to get a newer car. Well, if
another non-routine problem comes up between now and winter's end, I think
that will be it. :-(

 

Update: The exhaust note resulted from a pair of holes in what the mechanic
referred to as a "front exhaust pipe". Not sure if this is the pipe you are
referring to, but it's the one that extends from the cat toward the front of
the car (this was not replaced when I had the muffler and cat replaced).
This set me back another $220.

Concerning the gas fumes, perhaps that was not fuel I saw on the ground
yesterday because nothing is leaking from underneath now. But the fumes
still remain.

My father suggested to wait until next spring to get a newer car. Well, if
another non-routine problem comes up between now and winter's end, I think
that will be it. :-(

 

Anything over twelve years is/was gravy.

Once you have to ask, it's time to go.

J.

 

Anything over twelve years is/was gravy.

Once you have to ask, it's time to go.

J.

 

That's the famous A-pipe. Mine's original. 275,000 miles and 15 years.
It's still sound, but is looking decidedly ugly. I think its longevity
is due to my relatively high annual mileage. The car doesn't sit much,

A common source of gas fumes is the low-pressure return lines alongside
the fuel tank, below the filler neck. A secondary source is the filler
neck overflow pipe having rotted.

Corrosion is a major problem up here, at least in Eastern Canada. I have
found that if you buy the car used, it had better be pretty new,
otherwise rust will have gotten away from you by the time you take
ownership.

 

That's the famous A-pipe. Mine's original. 275,000 miles and 15 years.
It's still sound, but is looking decidedly ugly. I think its longevity
is due to my relatively high annual mileage. The car doesn't sit much,

A common source of gas fumes is the low-pressure return lines alongside
the fuel tank, below the filler neck. A secondary source is the filler
neck overflow pipe having rotted.

Corrosion is a major problem up here, at least in Eastern Canada. I have
found that if you buy the car used, it had better be pretty new,
otherwise rust will have gotten away from you by the time you take
ownership.

 

And talk about speaking too soon... the temperature slider on the climate
control panel is busted!!! But this is minor; I think the cable just needs
to be reattached to one end. Thankfully, it is stuck in the middle so it's
not too warm or cold.

 

And talk about speaking too soon... the temperature slider on the climate
control panel is busted!!! But this is minor; I think the cable just needs
to be reattached to one end. Thankfully, it is stuck in the middle so it's
not too warm or cold.

 

You may not want to get yourself in a position where you HAVE to buy a
car in short order. I assume you are a one-car "family" and the car is
required so you can get to work. I'd start shopping now while you have
the luxury to browse. FWIW, there's a '99 Accord and a '04 Accord in
our family. No comparison, the '04 is a FAR better car in every regard
except handling...and purchase cost.

 

You may not want to get yourself in a position where you HAVE to buy a
car in short order. I assume you are a one-car "family" and the car is
required so you can get to work. I'd start shopping now while you have
the luxury to browse. FWIW, there's a '99 Accord and a '04 Accord in
our family. No comparison, the '04 is a FAR better car in every regard
except handling...and purchase cost.

 

Actually, I am single with no kids. But I have been travelling over 150
miles almost every day for the past couple of months and will likely
continue to do so for another month or two.

Yep, it's almost official... I'm going to start shopping around probably
this weekend. But I am probably going to look for a 2004 or 2005 Civic. I
know a 7th-gen Civic probably does not handle as well as previous versions,
but I am not concerned with that.

I had always heard that the 7th-gen handled better than the 6th-gen. And
personally, I think the 6th-gen looks better than the 7th-gen, as far as the
4-door is concerned.

 

Actually, I am single with no kids. But I have been travelling over 150
miles almost every day for the past couple of months and will likely
continue to do so for another month or two.

Yep, it's almost official... I'm going to start shopping around probably
this weekend. But I am probably going to look for a 2004 or 2005 Civic. I
know a 7th-gen Civic probably does not handle as well as previous versions,
but I am not concerned with that.

I had always heard that the 7th-gen handled better than the 6th-gen. And
personally, I think the 6th-gen looks better than the 7th-gen, as far as the
4-door is concerned.

 

If you buy one that is too recent then you have to factor in
comprehensive insurance, no? The good thing about relatively cheap
cars is that you don't need to pay an extra $600 or so a year.

 

If you buy one that is too recent then you have to factor in
comprehensive insurance, no? The good thing about relatively cheap
cars is that you don't need to pay an extra $600 or so a year.