Bad start in hot weather?

It could be the Main Relay - which charges the fuel system, check
out the site for details. If every stop you made was more than 20 minutes
would it be OK? I drove an entire winter with a bad relay and it never failed
once, only when the temp rose in the spring did the car fail to start (and
the previous fall). If it fails to start after buying gas - it is more than
likely the main relay.


http://techauto.tripod.com/mainrelay.htm

 

Well, I'm thinking of giving up searching the problem of bad start in
hot weather but I'll give it a last try to find out what could it be so I
ask anyone who has an oppinion of what it could be and why?

Thanx.
In advance, please ignore mistakes in writing.


Car: Honda Civic Coupe 1.5iLS 1995. year, 101 HP, fuel injected

Problem: Car starts purely when it has been sitting in the hot sunny weather
for about 2 hours, and it also starts purely when sitting
on a hot sunny
weather and was previously not driven.
By starting purely I mean cranking for for four or five
cranks and then
starting irregularely, and it takes about 2-3 seconds to
turn the oil lamp
off, in that time RPM also rise to about propper value.
Next start immediately after engine was turned off or a
time of up to half
an hour or hour it starts ok (two cranks and ignite).
When started in the morning whan it is not hot, it starts
immediately on the
first crank.

Other observations: When fuel reservoir cap is taken off after beeing driven
there is
woosh sound of air comming out (I'm not 100% sure maybe the
air is getting in
the reservoir).
When I left it parked in the sun but I left the engine part
in shade it started ok
(that would exclude cabbin temperature and temperature
around reservoir
to have anything to do with the problem - but lets take
that in conssideration).

Checked or replaced parts: - resoldered main relay
- ignition coil resistance OK
- Ignition Control Module (ICM) resistance OK
- Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor resistance OK
- new spark plugs
- new fuel filter
- cleaned air filter (K&N)
- EVAPorative emmision control solenoid valve (EVAP)
working OK
- Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor resistance OK
- Idle Air Control (IAC) valve OK (checked by disconnecting
in idle -> RPM fall)
- injectors not leaking (checked under pressure out of the
car)
- ECM displays no error codes

Well, what else could it be?

 

It could be the Main Relay - which charges the fuel system, check

You can see that I resoldered it already but I'll take it into
consideration.

Thanx.

 

In addition to the problems with the cold solder joints, the main relay also has
a pair of contacts in it that can become pitted and burned much like a set of
points from an old distributor.