Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"

Cotter pin's out. How can I free the castle nut from the
ball joint stud? They currently move as one.

Please help as soon as possible.

 

The ball joint taper has broken its adhesion. Stick a jack under the control
arm and lift enough to put the weight of the car on the taper to jam it
again. You may need to give the joint a whack on the base with a hammer to
help.

GENTLY try turning the castle nut. If it all starts turning again, give the
joint a whack again to lock it. Once its out, clean the taper and upright
hole with solvent to remove any grease.

Stewart DIBBS

 

The ball joint taper has broken its adhesion. Stick a jack under the control
arm and lift enough to put the weight of the car on the taper to jam it
again. You may need to give the joint a whack on the base with a hammer to
help.

GENTLY try turning the castle nut. If it all starts turning again, give the
joint a whack again to lock it. Once its out, clean the taper and upright
hole with solvent to remove any grease.

Stewart DIBBS

 

what he said...

 

what he said...

 

Thanks. I will try this Thursday when I resume work on my
car.

Helluva day with a control arm bolt, but got it without
disassembling the ball joint, after all.

 

Thanks. I will try this Thursday when I resume work on my
car.

Helluva day with a control arm bolt, but got it without
disassembling the ball joint, after all.

 

Also try some brake cleaner in the taper seat before putting pressure on it.
Oil in there is a real problem... as I've found :-(

Mike

 

Also try some brake cleaner in the taper seat before putting pressure on it.
Oil in there is a real problem... as I've found :-(

Mike

 

That's in my notes from the "Ball Joint Tools" thread of
earlier.

Also, as evidence I am paying attention (well, this time
with a bit of hindsight as I look over my copy-and-pasted
notes) I see a guy named headknocker suggested (in that
thread) a vice grip applied to the joint when re-assembling
to prevent the stud from turning.

 

That's in my notes from the "Ball Joint Tools" thread of
earlier.

Also, as evidence I am paying attention (well, this time
with a bit of hindsight as I look over my copy-and-pasted
notes) I see a guy named headknocker suggested (in that
thread) a vice grip applied to the joint when re-assembling
to prevent the stud from turning.

 

Elle: Yeah, that was me. Both ways work equally well. Pick your poison

 

According to the Haynes manual,the upper BJ is not replaceable,and the
entire control arm is supposed to be replaced;is there any method of
replacing the BJ in the original control arm?

 

According to the Haynes manual,the upper BJ is not replaceable,and the
entire control arm is supposed to be replaced;is there any method of
replacing the BJ in the original control arm?

 

I should have clarified that my post above concerns the
lower control arm, which is bolted via the castle nut and
ball joint stud to the knuckle... The knuckle for my Civic
contains the lower ball joint. The UK site's Civic CRX
manual has a procedure for replacing just the lower ball
joint. The first step is to remove the knuckle...

Not sure what you're asking, otherwise. I don't plan to
replace the lower ball joint at this time. I am going to
install new lower control arm bushings within the next week
(God willing) and see if this remedies my car's un-levelness
from pass. side to dr. side. I need to disconnect the lower
ball joint to remove the control arm. I ran into trouble
removing the inboard control bolt and for a little while
thought my best bet was to disconnect the ball joint,
yada... Anyway, managed to remove the inboard control bolt
in its entirety without doing the BJ right now, so I can
drive the car today and resume work tomorrow.

 

I should have clarified that my post above concerns the
lower control arm, which is bolted via the castle nut and
ball joint stud to the knuckle... The knuckle for my Civic
contains the lower ball joint. The UK site's Civic CRX
manual has a procedure for replacing just the lower ball
joint. The first step is to remove the knuckle...

Not sure what you're asking, otherwise. I don't plan to
replace the lower ball joint at this time. I am going to
install new lower control arm bushings within the next week
(God willing) and see if this remedies my car's un-levelness
from pass. side to dr. side. I need to disconnect the lower
ball joint to remove the control arm. I ran into trouble
removing the inboard control bolt and for a little while
thought my best bet was to disconnect the ball joint,
yada... Anyway, managed to remove the inboard control bolt
in its entirety without doing the BJ right now, so I can
drive the car today and resume work tomorrow.

 

I'm sorry,I was thinking of my Integra,and the Haynes manual says -to
replace the lower BJ,you remove the whole steering knuckle and take to to a
shop to have a new BJ pressed in,and the UPPER BJ is -not replaceable-;you
must replace the whole upper control wishbone.

I was wondering if anyone offered a kit or service for replacing that upper
BJ without replacing the upper wishbone.

since you were working on your suspension ,I thought you or other readers
might know.

Have you tried two new springs yet?
ISTR you were going to swap the unequal height springs;evidently that
failed.

 

I'm sorry,I was thinking of my Integra,and the Haynes manual says -to
replace the lower BJ,you remove the whole steering knuckle and take to to a
shop to have a new BJ pressed in,and the UPPER BJ is -not replaceable-;you
must replace the whole upper control wishbone.

I was wondering if anyone offered a kit or service for replacing that upper
BJ without replacing the upper wishbone.

since you were working on your suspension ,I thought you or other readers
might know.

Have you tried two new springs yet?
ISTR you were going to swap the unequal height springs;evidently that
failed.

 

I've replaced an upper ball joint on my '88 Civic. The suspension is very
similar to the Integra. I replaced the whole upper arm. It's pretty easy.
If I remember correctly, the upper ball joint is welded into the upper arm
and it's not worth the hassle trying to replace it as a separate unit.

Eric

 

I've replaced an upper ball joint on my '88 Civic. The suspension is very
similar to the Integra. I replaced the whole upper arm. It's pretty easy.
If I remember correctly, the upper ball joint is welded into the upper arm
and it's not worth the hassle trying to replace it as a separate unit.

Eric