Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"

///snipped for brevity///

Are you sure? Wouldn't measuring from the wheel well to the center of the
wheel also introduce the tire as a variable? The tire would determine, in
part, the height of the center of the wheel, wouldn't it?

I would think that once you had the car level with the ground as you outline
above, one should measure from the top of the shims to the center of the
wheel. Any difference between the two tires of interest could then be
eliminated by adjusting air pressure until the centers were equal. Then a
measurement from the wheel well to the center of each wheel would disclose
any difference in ride height. Perhaps I didn't grasp the whole of your
procedure....

Dave D

 

///snipped for brevity///

Are you sure? Wouldn't measuring from the wheel well to the center of the
wheel also introduce the tire as a variable? The tire would determine, in
part, the height of the center of the wheel, wouldn't it?

I would think that once you had the car level with the ground as you outline
above, one should measure from the top of the shims to the center of the
wheel. Any difference between the two tires of interest could then be
eliminated by adjusting air pressure until the centers were equal. Then a
measurement from the wheel well to the center of each wheel would disclose
any difference in ride height. Perhaps I didn't grasp the whole of your
procedure....

Dave D

 

Yes,you could easily have variation in the levelness of the ground under
the car,that you would not be able to see without a long construction level
or other non-eyeball means. 1/2 inch of slope or variation would not be
easily seen.

No.the spring is going to push the axle out X distance,depending on the
weight on that side of the car.The diameter of the tire will only determine
how far the axle is above the ground,not how far the spring pushes against
the car's weight.

Now I'm gonna go out and measure my Integra.....

 

Yes,you could easily have variation in the levelness of the ground under
the car,that you would not be able to see without a long construction level
or other non-eyeball means. 1/2 inch of slope or variation would not be
easily seen.

No.the spring is going to push the axle out X distance,depending on the
weight on that side of the car.The diameter of the tire will only determine
how far the axle is above the ground,not how far the spring pushes against
the car's weight.

Now I'm gonna go out and measure my Integra.....

 

Yes there is, I did it on my 98 civic. You have to be really careful when
pressing the BJ in, as the control arm is made of fairly thin steel.

I bought the BJ from NAPA. Nobody else offered it.

t

 

Happily, either the effects of PB Blaster or driving a
little with the car (carefully) took their toll. The remains
of the castle nut came off within ten minutes with just a
little tapping with my new chisel. The threads seemed to be
in good repair, but I chased them with a new die (only $4
for the 12 mm, 1.25 mm pitch one at NAPA) to be safe.

The ball joint separated so easily probably a good blow with
a small ball peen hammer would have been sufficient. I
suppose the taper was really lubed up, or else the driving
around loosened everything in, I confess, a seriously risky
way.

The boot was a bit dried out and beat up from the brake
cleaner. I applied PB Blaster, for now, since it's said to
restore rubber. Probably have to replace it soon after the
rough treatment it saw in the last couple of days.

I note I also priced new lower ball joints at NAPA today.
These were part of my backup plan.They had two types, one
with a lifetime warranty, one without. One $27, one $52,
IIRC.

Forward to full control arm removal, then bushing
replacement. More update on this in another thread.

 

Happily, either the effects of PB Blaster or driving a
little with the car (carefully) took their toll. The remains
of the castle nut came off within ten minutes with just a
little tapping with my new chisel. The threads seemed to be
in good repair, but I chased them with a new die (only $4
for the 12 mm, 1.25 mm pitch one at NAPA) to be safe.

The ball joint separated so easily probably a good blow with
a small ball peen hammer would have been sufficient. I
suppose the taper was really lubed up, or else the driving
around loosened everything in, I confess, a seriously risky
way.

The boot was a bit dried out and beat up from the brake
cleaner. I applied PB Blaster, for now, since it's said to
restore rubber. Probably have to replace it soon after the
rough treatment it saw in the last couple of days.

I note I also priced new lower ball joints at NAPA today.
These were part of my backup plan.They had two types, one
with a lifetime warranty, one without. One $27, one $52,
IIRC.

Forward to full control arm removal, then bushing
replacement. More update on this in another thread.

 

THANKS !!

 

I forgot to ask;did you press it in yourself? How did you do it?
Removal of the old one?