Ball Joint Tools

I would like to get a decent ball joint lifter tool for
under $30. Tegger's site
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/disconnect.html describes
several. I am aiming for the second category. Here are two
in that category:

http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product?storeId=10101&Pr=p_Product.CATENTRY_ID%3A2004158&TID=100&TID=100&productId=2004158&catalogId=10101

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/TA-61900.html

Both the separating tools at the above link seem to be
"single stage" whereas the ones at Tegger's site are what I
think are called "two stage." The single stage ones tend to
be around one-fourth the price of the two stage ones. Will I
get a lot more for the money with the two stage ones? Seems
like the single stage one sure prevail when googling for
"ball joint lifter."

Also, do I need a "ball joint press kit" of some kind for
putting the ball joints back together? My Chilton's manual
isn't too good on these points. The factory service manuals
at the UK site seem a little better and I'm studying them
now.

I am prepping for a major rebuild of my 91 Civic's
suspension.

 

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MAN, those are cheap looking crap. I only paid CAN $18.00 (on sale at
Princess Auto) for the one pictured on tegger's site. (last picture)

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/disconnect.html

That's about $15 US. Notice there are two hinge points too.

'Curly'

 

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MAN, those are cheap looking crap. I only paid CAN $18.00 (on sale at
Princess Auto) for the one pictured on tegger's site. (last picture)

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/disconnect.html

That's about $15 US. Notice there are two hinge points too.

'Curly'

 

I was looking for this at the Princess Auto site and
couldn't turn it up, even after downloading the two
catalogue sections (Automotive and "Shop and Garage").

I'll try their 800 number tomorrow and see if they even sell
to people in the U.S.

 

I was looking for this at the Princess Auto site and
couldn't turn it up, even after downloading the two
catalogue sections (Automotive and "Shop and Garage").

I'll try their 800 number tomorrow and see if they even sell
to people in the U.S.

 

I spent twice as much as you are looking at, but it is a single stage much
like the less expensive ones. I haven't used it yet but my son said it
worked like a charm. I think the lower priced ones would work as well - this
one just had the advantage of being adjustable for small or large ball
joints. Unless you're going to work on trucks I doubt that really matters to
you.

Putting the joint back together is simple enough, but it really helps if the
taper pin and socket are free of oil. (Don't ask me how I know!) If there is
oil the pin tends to rotate before it is tight, making it very difficult to
either tighten or loosen the nut. Proper torque on the nut is important,
since that determines the wedginess (technical term).

Mike

 

I spent twice as much as you are looking at, but it is a single stage much
like the less expensive ones. I haven't used it yet but my son said it
worked like a charm. I think the lower priced ones would work as well - this
one just had the advantage of being adjustable for small or large ball
joints. Unless you're going to work on trucks I doubt that really matters to
you.

Putting the joint back together is simple enough, but it really helps if the
taper pin and socket are free of oil. (Don't ask me how I know!) If there is
oil the pin tends to rotate before it is tight, making it very difficult to
either tighten or loosen the nut. Proper torque on the nut is important,
since that determines the wedginess (technical term).

Mike

 

Mike, thanks! I'll put this in my notes.

 

Mike, thanks! I'll put this in my notes.

 

I have one of these http://www.asttool.com/html/cars/general/129_1.html
It works well and it's very dependable.

With any ball joint press tool such as this, there's one thing that you have
to be careful with. That is, it's possible to put enough force on the end
of the ball joint stud before it releases such that the end of the stud
collapses due to the holes drilled in it for the cotter key. To avoid this
scenario, put a nut on the end of the ball joint stud such that the end of
the nut is flush with the end of the ball joint stud. The nut will then
provide support via the stud threads and prevent the end of the stud from
collapsing.

Eric

 

I have one of these http://www.asttool.com/html/cars/general/129_1.html
It works well and it's very dependable.

With any ball joint press tool such as this, there's one thing that you have
to be careful with. That is, it's possible to put enough force on the end
of the ball joint stud before it releases such that the end of the stud
collapses due to the holes drilled in it for the cotter key. To avoid this
scenario, put a nut on the end of the ball joint stud such that the end of
the nut is flush with the end of the ball joint stud. The nut will then
provide support via the stud threads and prevent the end of the stud from
collapsing.

Eric

 

I'll call Assenmacher tomorrow and see how much they want
for this. I couldn't find the price at the site.

Eric, thanks much. I put this in my notes.

 

I'll call Assenmacher tomorrow and see how much they want
for this. I couldn't find the price at the site.

Eric, thanks much. I put this in my notes.

 

That's the kind of thing I need to know. Thanks, John.

 

That's the kind of thing I need to know. Thanks, John.

 

The cheap ones are not the best and easiest to use but they to get the job
done. I'd rather use a cheap one like this rather than banging on the LCA to
get the ball joint out.

 

The cheap ones are not the best and easiest to use but they to get the job
done. I'd rather use a cheap one like this rather than banging on the LCA to
get the ball joint out.

 

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That sucker is gorgeous. Good tools are nice to have, eh? As you can
see, I already own two identical ball joint puller tools. :-(

'Curly'

 

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That sucker is gorgeous. Good tools are nice to have, eh? As you can
see, I already own two identical ball joint puller tools. :-(

'Curly'

 

I usually just use a hammer for a few sharp blows on the side of the
joint which ususally dislodges it.

JT