Ball Joint Tools

I usually just use a hammer for a few sharp blows on the side of the
joint which ususally dislodges it.

JT

 

Flip the castle nut upside down and reinstall it. Same result.

 

Flip the castle nut upside down and reinstall it. Same result.

 

Yeah, I've been using "the cheap-looking piece of crap" tool from JC Whitney
for years and it works like a charm. In fact, I used it to remove the upper
balljoint and outer tie rod ends(to replace the aging dust boots) on my '98
CRV several weeks ago.

BTW, here's a little tip on how to keep the pin from spinning when you're
trying to put the nut back on. I use one of my vise grip wrenches to hold the
two pieces together(which puts pressure on the joint) and that holds the pin
steady.

 

Headknocker and Tegger: Your tips are now in my notes. Thank
you.

Updates:

Canada's Princess Auto--Does not ship to U.S.

Tool by Colorado based Assenmacher--$70, plus shipping.
Order by phone.

 

Headknocker and Tegger: Your tips are now in my notes. Thank
you.

Updates:

Canada's Princess Auto--Does not ship to U.S.

Tool by Colorado based Assenmacher--$70, plus shipping.
Order by phone.

 

I bought a tool like those sold at Princess Auto - it worked very
well. I ground it out a bit with a die grinder to make sure it
wouldn't tear the boots on my Legend, and it still had more than
enough strength. Another source for these is a tool company that sells
them on eBay for $29. I figured this would be easier than dealing with
an international order. The URL for the tool is below:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/J-1727-Universal-Ball-Joint-Separator-Brand-New_W0QQitemZ4626902945QQcategoryZ35625QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

I bought a tool like those sold at Princess Auto - it worked very
well. I ground it out a bit with a die grinder to make sure it
wouldn't tear the boots on my Legend, and it still had more than
enough strength. Another source for these is a tool company that sells
them on eBay for $29. I figured this would be easier than dealing with
an international order. The URL for the tool is below:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/J-1727-Universal-Ball-Joint-Separator-Brand-New_W0QQitemZ4626902945QQcategoryZ35625QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

Yesterday I thought I'd scoured e-bay. Thanks, this tool may
be the one!

This morning I ordered new front suspension spring coils and
stabilizer links and stabilizer bushings from the "Team
Honda" in Colorado, www.cheapesthondaparts.com , which
Tegger's site references. If all goes well with Team Honda,
I will add it to my site. Team Honda had the best price,
taking into account shipping: OEM coils at $48.25 each, with
a shipping charge of 10%. List prices are similar to
Majestic, but Majestic's shipping charges are more (at least
for my location). Majestic does now have an online shipping
estimator.

Then I'm onto the ball joints. One step at a time...

 

Yesterday I thought I'd scoured e-bay. Thanks, this tool may
be the one!

This morning I ordered new front suspension spring coils and
stabilizer links and stabilizer bushings from the "Team
Honda" in Colorado, www.cheapesthondaparts.com , which
Tegger's site references. If all goes well with Team Honda,
I will add it to my site. Team Honda had the best price,
taking into account shipping: OEM coils at $48.25 each, with
a shipping charge of 10%. List prices are similar to
Majestic, but Majestic's shipping charges are more (at least
for my location). Majestic does now have an online shipping
estimator.

Then I'm onto the ball joints. One step at a time...

 

If I remember correctly, the manual states that the suspension should be
raised up to its normal ride height before tightening the ball joint castle
nuts (and also before tightening the lower control arm pivot and strut
attachment bolts). I usually find it easiest to raise the lower control arm
with a floor jack (it's fast, easy, and takes care of multiple steps at the
same time, i.e., the ball joint and the lower control arm).

Lastly, never loosen the castle nut to align the cotter key holes. Always
tighten it to the next one.

Eric

 

In three shops I've worked in no-one has had this tool. Looks neat; but by
the time I dig it out and set it up a sharp blow from the hammer already has
the joint loose.


--
Stephen W. Hansen
ASE Certified Master Automobile Technician
ASE Automobile Advanced Engine Performance
ASE Undercar Specialist

http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troubleshooting/l/bl_obd_main.htm
http://www.troublecodes.net/technical/

 

In three shops I've worked in no-one has had this tool. Looks neat; but by
the time I dig it out and set it up a sharp blow from the hammer already has
the joint loose.


--
Stephen W. Hansen
ASE Certified Master Automobile Technician
ASE Automobile Advanced Engine Performance
ASE Undercar Specialist

http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troubleshooting/l/bl_obd_main.htm
http://www.troublecodes.net/technical/

 

The advantage to the hammer technique is that the joint is not stressed
and the possibility of damage to the boot is reduced. It's an old time
practice and best of all, it's free! Of course, flipping the castle nut
and applying loosely prevents the joint assembly from dropping completely.

<G>

JT

 

The advantage to the hammer technique is that the joint is not stressed
and the possibility of damage to the boot is reduced. It's an old time
practice and best of all, it's free! Of course, flipping the castle nut
and applying loosely prevents the joint assembly from dropping completely.

<G>

JT

 

There must be a trick to that. The last one I did without the tool didn't
give way even with an air hammer on one side and a 4-lb hammer head on the
other side to buck it. It makes sense to me, but I can't seem to make it
work.

Mike

 

There must be a trick to that. The last one I did without the tool didn't
give way even with an air hammer on one side and a 4-lb hammer head on the
other side to buck it. It makes sense to me, but I can't seem to make it
work.

Mike

 

The idea is to use "sharp" blows, not massive power. I've had about a
95% success rate...

JT

 

The idea is to use "sharp" blows, not massive power. I've had about a
95% success rate...

JT

 

That's why I thought the air hammer would do the trick. I would need a
massive brass transplant to get me to swing a regular hammer under the car
the way it would take to upset a ball joint.

Mike