Bolt Removal Problems

Update:
Unfastening the bolt connecting the rear lower control arm and trailing arm was
as ugly as others in the archives reported. I never actually got it free from
the bushing or its nut.

I never tried a torch, but that would be my next suggestion.

I eventually drilled and cut (by hand) the outside-most control arm
bushing/bolt. Then I ground down the female bolt receptacle (it's not actually a
nut, unfortunately, or I would have snapped it off, the way I did with the strut
fork bolt) welded to the trailing arm. I used a cheap-o electric hand drill and
grinding stone attachment. Grinding it down was no fun but at least I could see
some kind of steady progress. Cobalt drill bits are essential but still very,
very slow, even with the best cutting oil.

I installed the "new" (= 8k miles used) control arm last night, attaching it
with a separate nut at the trailing arm, as I think Eric and/or others
suggested. The new strut and control arm did not fix the tilt, but I wasn't
expecting it too.

The ride seems a bit smoother, but I may have talked myself into this.

I took apart the old strut in my suspension course today, borrowing the school's
spring compressor. The shock absorber seemed in excellent shape at 157k miles
old. The spring is a tougher call.

I reckon I spent around $35 just on cutting tools for this job. About half the
tools are broken or now severely worn. I'm worn, too!

I am contemplating doing the other side but not for another week or so.
Meanwhile, the other side's bolts get sprayed with PB Blaster regularly. Not
that I have much hope this will help.

Moral of the story: The classic, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it"?

I dunno. I learned a lot: -)

 

I bet! Is there any chance you can get ahold of an air tool?
A die grinder with a 3" abrasive cutoff wheel is the weapon of choice.
Electric drills just don't turn fast enough.

 

I bet! Is there any chance you can get ahold of an air tool?
A die grinder with a 3" abrasive cutoff wheel is the weapon of choice.
Electric drills just don't turn fast enough.

 

Hi John, thanks for the suggestion. I'm a little overbudget on "tool toys" right
now, but I'll make some inquiries of classmates in my auto course and ponder it
for a few weeks before I go seriously after the other rear shock assembly, if I
go after it. I also want to keep an eye on my "re-design" of the one rear
trailing arm/control arm linkage for awhile.

At least I am now the proud owner of a 115 psi, 8 gallon reservoir, "uses oil"
air compressor (which may or may not do the trick for this tool you suggest).

 

Hi John, thanks for the suggestion. I'm a little overbudget on "tool toys" right
now, but I'll make some inquiries of classmates in my auto course and ponder it
for a few weeks before I go seriously after the other rear shock assembly, if I
go after it. I also want to keep an eye on my "re-design" of the one rear
trailing arm/control arm linkage for awhile.

At least I am now the proud owner of a 115 psi, 8 gallon reservoir, "uses oil"
air compressor (which may or may not do the trick for this tool you suggest).

 

Then get a die grinder with a cutoff wheel. They're relatively cheap
as air tools go. Get one without a guard or with a removable guard.
They are more dangerous to use, but often you just can't get the ones
with a guard into confined spaces.

Small compressors sometimes don't pack enough oomph for big air tools
like 3/4" impact wrenches, but they are plenty good enough for things
like a die grinder, air chisels, air ratchets etc. I worked on cars
for a long time before I discovered air tools, and when I did wished I
had found out about them earlier.

 

Then get a die grinder with a cutoff wheel. They're relatively cheap
as air tools go. Get one without a guard or with a removable guard.
They are more dangerous to use, but often you just can't get the ones
with a guard into confined spaces.

Small compressors sometimes don't pack enough oomph for big air tools
like 3/4" impact wrenches, but they are plenty good enough for things
like a die grinder, air chisels, air ratchets etc. I worked on cars
for a long time before I discovered air tools, and when I did wished I
had found out about them earlier.

 

Caroline wrote:

[snip]

This is by design. Cobalt bits are made for drilling into hardened metals.
As such, the angle of the cutting edges is shallower than it is on high
speed steel bits. This enables the drill bit to take off smaller chips of
metal which has advantages when drilling into hardened metal.

A disadvantage with cobalt bits is that they're typically rather brittle and
easy to break. I've broken large bits simply by accidentally dropping them
onto concrete. I've also broken smaller ones by applying too much side
pressure while drilling.

Eric

 

Thanks, Eric and John Ings, for the additional information.

I soaked the other side's lower control arm outboard and middle bolts as best I
could several times in the last few weeks. Today I again went under the car and
tried to free them. It feels like they are just going to shear, like the first
side. The inboard bolt came out fairly easily, though.

Now the only battle is to resist perfectionism and instead be completely
rational: Do not attempt to remove this other side's control arm. The first
side's shock was in good condition. I have no symptoms of poor performance. I'll
save $68 in parts costs and perhaps a lot of annoyance. I predict the car will
be fine, rear suspension wise for another five years, particularly in my new
locale (a much drier, almost snow-free, Western climate).

But if by chance that puppy should break before the engine does, I'm ready!

Thanks again, all.