Brake Flush Bleeder Bolt Adapters?

I did a brake flush yesterday, by myself for the second
time, on my 91 Civic LX (176k miles). I use the Mity-Vac
system ( a hand-held vacuum pump, connecting to a small
container to collect fluid, tubing, and adapters). It went
much more quickly. One concern I have is that, while the kit
has a well-fitting adapter for the front bleeder bolts, it
does not have a good one for the rears. The front setup
holds a vacuum really well as I bleed fluid. By contrast, on
the rears, massive air bubbling occurs, and I have to
continuously pump to maintain vacuum.

I think it's because the rear adapters fit so loosely that,
when I draw a vacuum with the pump, it sucks air in at the
adapters.

I am thinking of buying a set of those one-way (that is,
check) bleeder valves that Pep Boys, for one, sells, to (1)
maybe get a better fit from adapter to valve; and (2)
minimize air introduction into the rear brake system.

Can anyone make other suggestions?

I want to stick with the Mity-Vac approach, as opposed to
getting a friend to push the brake pedal while I bleed at
each wheel. The Mity Vac system works really well on the
front. I am optimistic that some brainiac here can help me
getting the rears working better, or I'll stumble onto an
improvement for the rears.

A few comments for the archives:
-- I used a 32 oz ( = two pints) container of Valvoline
"exceeds DOT 3 and 4 requirements" brake fluid for the
flush. I had a second container ready, in case I found a lot
of dirt etc. in the fluid I bled. I did not. It seemed
pretty dirt free.

-- About 1.8 years and 22k miles have elapsed since the last
flush. The Owner's Manual recommended interval is 2 years
and 30k miles. I see a lot of folks here do a brake system
flush once a year. I was thinking of switching to a one-year
interval, but think I'll stick with two years using the more
expensive, supposedly more moisture resistant Valvoline
brake fluid. I live in a low humidity part of the country,
to boot.

-- The brake pedal travel before and after the flush still
seems a little large. I'm thinking it's because in fact I am
not getting all the air out of the system, and if any part
is to blame, its the rear bleeder bolt/adapter set-up I'm
using. Or possibly it's the fact that yesterday just before
the flush I disassembled, cleaned, lubed, and inspected,
then re-installed the rear brake shoe assemblies, and so
they weren't quite seated right.

-- I do not see symptoms of a leaky master cylinder (e.g.
the brake pedal does not keep going down after I first hit
what seems "bottom").

 

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Pressure bleeding is the way to go if you don't have a good helper. You
build a rig that attaches to the reservoir cap and away you go. I'm
going to use the 'insecticide sprayer' style when i get around to it.
Google it. Gets out air. Vacuum method is confusing because, as you
mention, lots of 'local' air confuses whether you're really getting out
the 'internal' air. A well-trained helper is even better, if you can get
one.

If you yell at her, you won't get supper.

'Curly'

 

--------------------------------------

Pressure bleeding is the way to go if you don't have a good helper. You
build a rig that attaches to the reservoir cap and away you go. I'm
going to use the 'insecticide sprayer' style when i get around to it.
Google it. Gets out air. Vacuum method is confusing because, as you
mention, lots of 'local' air confuses whether you're really getting out
the 'internal' air. A well-trained helper is even better, if you can get
one.

If you yell at her, you won't get supper.

'Curly'

 

I second the pressure bleeding method... I bought one of the bug
sprayer models a few years ago and it seriously could not be easier. No
helper necessary. Besides, I've read in several posts that the helper
pumping method can sometimes ruin the seals on your master cylinder if
there's corrosion on the plunger.

One caution if you get the bug sprayer bleeder ... be sure to release
the pressure in the bottle before you undo the fitting on your master
cylinder resevoir or you'll get a nasty mess. Brake fluid will spray
EVERYWHERE.

 

I second the pressure bleeding method... I bought one of the bug
sprayer models a few years ago and it seriously could not be easier. No
helper necessary. Besides, I've read in several posts that the helper
pumping method can sometimes ruin the seals on your master cylinder if
there's corrosion on the plunger.

One caution if you get the bug sprayer bleeder ... be sure to release
the pressure in the bottle before you undo the fitting on your master
cylinder resevoir or you'll get a nasty mess. Brake fluid will spray
EVERYWHERE.

 

i took off the bleeder screws and wrapped the threads with teflon tape.

home depot/lowes should have some vinyl hose that will tightly slip on
the nipple.

otherwise, i know there are rubber 90 degree bleeder arms that would
work, and that should have come with your mityvac set.

 

i took off the bleeder screws and wrapped the threads with teflon tape.

home depot/lowes should have some vinyl hose that will tightly slip on
the nipple.

otherwise, i know there are rubber 90 degree bleeder arms that would
work, and that should have come with your mityvac set.

 

If there's corrosion on the master cylinder plunger or MC bore,the MC
already needs replacing or rebuilding.

Does the "bug sprayer" keep the reservoir filled so air does not enter the
MC?

 

If there's corrosion on the master cylinder plunger or MC bore,the MC
already needs replacing or rebuilding.

Does the "bug sprayer" keep the reservoir filled so air does not enter the
MC?

 

damned right!!! fear of not using the full cylinder stroke in case of
encountering this problem blows my mind. this is the #1 safety
component of the vehicle. better make sure it's 100%.

 

damned right!!! fear of not using the full cylinder stroke in case of
encountering this problem blows my mind. this is the #1 safety
component of the vehicle. better make sure it's 100%.

 

Yes, there are several 90-degree nipples, but none that fit
the rears. I am using one of the cone-shaped ones, and it's
a poor fit into the bleeder bolt.

I like the HD/Lowes idea. I'll go looking for a good fit
soon and use some of the adapters to go from small tube
diameter to the larger diameter hose that came with the
Mity-Vac kit.

To the others: I want to stick with the Mity-Vac approach a
bit longer.

 

Yes, there are several 90-degree nipples, but none that fit
the rears. I am using one of the cone-shaped ones, and it's
a poor fit into the bleeder bolt.

I like the HD/Lowes idea. I'll go looking for a good fit
soon and use some of the adapters to go from small tube
diameter to the larger diameter hose that came with the
Mity-Vac kit.

To the others: I want to stick with the Mity-Vac approach a
bit longer.

 

who knows? the small tube might "interference fit" inside the mityvac
tubing.

i like my mityvac. unscrew the bleeder, pump it a couple times, eye on
the brake fluid reservoir. once it starts coming out "straw colored", im
done.

 

who knows? the small tube might "interference fit" inside the mityvac
tubing.

i like my mityvac. unscrew the bleeder, pump it a couple times, eye on
the brake fluid reservoir. once it starts coming out "straw colored", im
done.

 

Maybe so.

It sure seemed easy this second time around. Though I have a
new floor jack and now four jack stands, and that helped.

About how much brake fluid do you tend to end up using on a
flush?

 

Maybe so.

It sure seemed easy this second time around. Though I have a
new floor jack and now four jack stands, and that helped.

About how much brake fluid do you tend to end up using on a
flush?

 

Hi Elle. No answers, but a few ? Where is a good source to
buy the Mity-Vac?

I'm getting ready to do a flush. Any trouble getting the
bleeders off? I don't know when mine were last touched,
& hope they don't cause trouble.


..... I used a 32 oz ( = two pints) container of Valvoline

I plan on using Motul Dot 5.1 fluid. Anyone have any
comments on this?

Mike

 

Hi Elle. No answers, but a few ? Where is a good source to
buy the Mity-Vac?

I'm getting ready to do a flush. Any trouble getting the
bleeders off? I don't know when mine were last touched,
& hope they don't cause trouble.


..... I used a 32 oz ( = two pints) container of Valvoline

I plan on using Motul Dot 5.1 fluid. Anyone have any
comments on this?

Mike

 

The Mity-Vac (metal pump) kit I bought for around $40 is the
following:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=2068

It's on sale for about $40 now. Take a printout of the site
above with you to the store to get the sale price.

Harbor Freight also sells a plastic pump version for around
$32. It is probably just fine.

From googling more on this, a lot of people have had "one
person brake bleed/flush" success with "Speed Bleeder
valves." One removes the old bleeder bolts and installs
these in their place. See site www.speedbleeder.com . Pep
Boys sells these one way (= check) valves, too.

No, though if it's been awhile, I'd spray down the threads
as best I could with the penetrating oil "PB Blaster"
(around $4 for a big spray can). Great stuff.

I think I have read of people overtorquing and so breaking
these tiny bolts, though. Only 7 ft-lbs. is specified in the
manual for my 91 Civic.

Isn't that silicone brake fluid (to be distinguished from
the "synthetic" DOT 3 and 4 brake fluids)? It doesn't mix
with the DOT 3 and 4, as I understand it. I don't think
there's much reason to use other than DOT 3 and 4. Googling
for {"Brake fluid" silicone "DOT 3"} etc. turns up a lot.
E.g. see http://www.afcoracing.com/tech_pages/fluid.shtml

Let the group know how it goes... I found it a little
tricky the first time but the second time was a breeze, like
I said, though I hope to improve on the rear brakes' bleed
part.