Brake Flush Bleeder Bolt Adapters?

The Mity-Vac (metal pump) kit I bought for around $40 is the
following:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=2068

It's on sale for about $40 now. Take a printout of the site
above with you to the store to get the sale price.

Harbor Freight also sells a plastic pump version for around
$32. It is probably just fine.

From googling more on this, a lot of people have had "one
person brake bleed/flush" success with "Speed Bleeder
valves." One removes the old bleeder bolts and installs
these in their place. See site www.speedbleeder.com . Pep
Boys sells these one way (= check) valves, too.

No, though if it's been awhile, I'd spray down the threads
as best I could with the penetrating oil "PB Blaster"
(around $4 for a big spray can). Great stuff.

I think I have read of people overtorquing and so breaking
these tiny bolts, though. Only 7 ft-lbs. is specified in the
manual for my 91 Civic.

Isn't that silicone brake fluid (to be distinguished from
the "synthetic" DOT 3 and 4 brake fluids)? It doesn't mix
with the DOT 3 and 4, as I understand it. I don't think
there's much reason to use other than DOT 3 and 4. Googling
for {"Brake fluid" silicone "DOT 3"} etc. turns up a lot.
E.g. see http://www.afcoracing.com/tech_pages/fluid.shtml

Let the group know how it goes... I found it a little
tricky the first time but the second time was a breeze, like
I said, though I hope to improve on the rear brakes' bleed
part.

 

its been a while, but i remember buying (2) 32oz bottles of it. i think
i used all of one, and part of another. i still probably have the "part
of another" in the garage, and it probably needs to be tossed by now. or
my brother can use it in his chevy truck, which has java-colored brake
fluid.

but hey- its his life, and his truck. i cant be chief maintenance tech
for everyone i know. tho i HAVE offered to help teach him how to do a
bleed/flush. oh well. hes got better things to do.

 

its been a while, but i remember buying (2) 32oz bottles of it. i think
i used all of one, and part of another. i still probably have the "part
of another" in the garage, and it probably needs to be tossed by now. or
my brother can use it in his chevy truck, which has java-colored brake
fluid.

but hey- its his life, and his truck. i cant be chief maintenance tech
for everyone i know. tho i HAVE offered to help teach him how to do a
bleed/flush. oh well. hes got better things to do.

 

i think i got mine at harbor freight. its one of the few things they
sell that isnt made of stinky chinese or indian metal/rubber/plastic,
and i paid full price... $40, i think for the kit.

any auto parts store should carry it as well. mine came with an
interesting 1970/80s era booklet that told how to diagnose problems,
like headlight doors that dont open. how quaint!

they shouldnt, hopefully. i dont know how prone they are to seizing in
the rust belt, if thats where you are.

never used it, but it should work. i just used regular stuff but change
it every 3 years. something like that i might change every 5yrs, if at all.

 

i think i got mine at harbor freight. its one of the few things they
sell that isnt made of stinky chinese or indian metal/rubber/plastic,
and i paid full price... $40, i think for the kit.

any auto parts store should carry it as well. mine came with an
interesting 1970/80s era booklet that told how to diagnose problems,
like headlight doors that dont open. how quaint!

they shouldnt, hopefully. i dont know how prone they are to seizing in
the rust belt, if thats where you are.

never used it, but it should work. i just used regular stuff but change
it every 3 years. something like that i might change every 5yrs, if at all.

 

woo hoo... thats mine as well!

i dunno bout that. the plastic gauge cover on mine cracked due to
exposure to brake fluid, parts cleaner, and god-knows-what. not sure an
all-plastic version would last that long in my hands

even with speed bleeders, id use teflon tape so air doesnt get thru the
threads. also functions as an anti-sieze.

it says its compatible, and long life. id probably be extra thorough
with the bleeding. motul is good stuff. used their oil for years in a
kawasaki i had, and even after 24k miles, the compression was great and
it ran like new.

 

woo hoo... thats mine as well!

i dunno bout that. the plastic gauge cover on mine cracked due to
exposure to brake fluid, parts cleaner, and god-knows-what. not sure an
all-plastic version would last that long in my hands

even with speed bleeders, id use teflon tape so air doesnt get thru the
threads. also functions as an anti-sieze.

it says its compatible, and long life. id probably be extra thorough
with the bleeding. motul is good stuff. used their oil for years in a
kawasaki i had, and even after 24k miles, the compression was great and
it ran like new.

 

IIRC it was because of your suggestion that I bought this.

I bought the super-duper one because the thing can do more
than bleed brakes. E.g. vacuum testing yada. So looking
ahead, I wanted something sturdy.

Noted. I just have a vague memory of a Usenet post where
someone said he had the plastic one and it was fine.

Understood about the teflon tape. If you could see the
crummy fit I have with the cone-shaped Mity-Vac fittings for
the rear brakes, I think you might be focused on them, too.
I don't use teflon tape on the fronts, and they seem to
bleed fine and very quick.

 

IIRC it was because of your suggestion that I bought this.

I bought the super-duper one because the thing can do more
than bleed brakes. E.g. vacuum testing yada. So looking
ahead, I wanted something sturdy.

Noted. I just have a vague memory of a Usenet post where
someone said he had the plastic one and it was fine.

Understood about the teflon tape. If you could see the
crummy fit I have with the cone-shaped Mity-Vac fittings for
the rear brakes, I think you might be focused on them, too.
I don't use teflon tape on the fronts, and they seem to
bleed fine and very quick.

 

......

Not silicone, but synthetic. Here's a PDF with info & specs.
http://www.motorspot.com/itm_img/DOT_5%5B1%5D.1_Brake_Fluid_8070_(GB).pdf

 

......

Not silicone, but synthetic. Here's a PDF with info & specs.
http://www.motorspot.com/itm_img/DOT_5%5B1%5D.1_Brake_Fluid_8070_(GB).pdf

 

I'm in Illinois, & the 94 VX has been here for several years. I'm thinking
about going to SpeedBleeders if they come off.

 

I'm in Illinois, & the 94 VX has been here for several years. I'm thinking
about going to SpeedBleeders if they come off.

 

Pressure bleeding is quite convenient for me, and I haven't tried my
MityVac for brake bleeding purpose. I use Motive Product's "Power
Bleeder":

http://www.motiveproducts.com/

I see the price has gone up since the ~$49 days. I use 1qt of brake
fluid for each flush. Castrol GT LMA DOT-3/4.

Speed bleeders use the teflon seals (a tube is provided with the kit)
on the threads to prevent air from getting past the bleeder threads.
You might want to use the same stuff if going the MityVac route, or the
teflon tape others mentioned.

You can read the instructions on the Motive site and see if you want to
go the pressure bleeder route.

http://www.motiveproducts.com/10instruct.html

 

Pressure bleeding is quite convenient for me, and I haven't tried my
MityVac for brake bleeding purpose. I use Motive Product's "Power
Bleeder":

http://www.motiveproducts.com/

I see the price has gone up since the ~$49 days. I use 1qt of brake
fluid for each flush. Castrol GT LMA DOT-3/4.

Speed bleeders use the teflon seals (a tube is provided with the kit)
on the threads to prevent air from getting past the bleeder threads.
You might want to use the same stuff if going the MityVac route, or the
teflon tape others mentioned.

You can read the instructions on the Motive site and see if you want to
go the pressure bleeder route.

http://www.motiveproducts.com/10instruct.html

 

Yes... there is a cap with rubber gasket that fits over the MC res. A
hose extends from the pressure bottle to the cap. When you open the
bleeder screws, fresh fluid is forced from the bug sprayer bottle into
the MC res and through the system. You just secure the cap on the MC
res, fill the pressure bottle with a bottle of fluid, tighten the lid
and pump until the pressure gauge reaches the appropriate psi. The
pressure bottle is about a gallon in size, more than enough to bleed
most brake systems. I usually use a turkey baster to empty the MC res
before starting just to make sure I'm not circulating crap through the
lines. Takes less than 15 mins total to bleed the entire car.

 

Yes... there is a cap with rubber gasket that fits over the MC res. A
hose extends from the pressure bottle to the cap. When you open the
bleeder screws, fresh fluid is forced from the bug sprayer bottle into
the MC res and through the system. You just secure the cap on the MC
res, fill the pressure bottle with a bottle of fluid, tighten the lid
and pump until the pressure gauge reaches the appropriate psi. The
pressure bottle is about a gallon in size, more than enough to bleed
most brake systems. I usually use a turkey baster to empty the MC res
before starting just to make sure I'm not circulating crap through the
lines. Takes less than 15 mins total to bleed the entire car.

 

I'm sure everybody in this thread has it covered, but for the benefit of
casual readers: make sure the teflon tape stays on the threads and doesn't
overlap the nose of the nipple at all. Getting teflon debris in brakes
doesn't work well.

Mike

 

I'm sure everybody in this thread has it covered, but for the benefit of
casual readers: make sure the teflon tape stays on the threads and doesn't
overlap the nose of the nipple at all. Getting teflon debris in brakes
doesn't work well.

Mike

 

Can these be rented from a local tool rental store?
Any brand names I should ask for?

(I appreciate the reply,but it's nice and proper to include the text of the
post you responded to.)