brake questions

Was replacing the pads on my 99 Accord and had some difficulty pressing the
rear brake pistons back.

The rear brake pistons are somewhat different from front pistons. They have
a slot in them. I ended up turning the piston clockwise using a larger
screwdriver (in the slot) in order to get it to depress. I had to do this
on both sides.

I also wanted to machine the front rotors but could not get the two phillips
screws out. Even used an impact driver-the bit broke in the phillips head.

The front pads, however, were in good shape so I did not replace them. But
I wonder how one removes the two phillips screws in order to remove the
rotor.

Any advice appreciated. The brakes are working OK.

Thanks

1999 Accord EX 4 cyl
4 wheel disc brakes
118000 miles

 

Congratulations to you for not simply squishing them in with a C-clamp.
What you did was the right thing to do.

They kinda get stuck, yeah.

Drill the screws out. But it might take more than that to get the rotors to
let go... Ask here for more...

 

In the past, I was successful dislodging those screws with a chisel(as
a last resort, you may not be able to reuse them).
HTH
JerryR

 

The fellow at the auto supply said that you don't really need to replace the
two phillips screws. Just drill them out and use rubber hammer to coax
rotor off, then don't use any on machined rotors.

The front pads (Wagner) have been on car since 55000+ miles (now have
118000). They still have some good pad left.

In the past, I was successful dislodging those screws with a chisel(as
a last resort, you may not be able to reuse them).
HTH
JerryR

 

I wish the auto supply fellow would get a job at Honda and get them to
stop putting all those unnecessary parts on their cars.

 

-------------------------

Them Japs . . . Waste, waste, waste. They're a disgrace to the auto
industry the way they throw spare parts in that aren't even needed.

 

loosen the wheel studs to finger tight, then drive around the block and
brake hard a couple of times. loosens up screws, disks, the works.

use honda pads next time. less dust, less fade, more even wear on the
disk. aftermarket are simply not worth the compromise for the $5 you save.

 

Honestly, I think the screws are just to keep the rotors from falling
off on the assembly line before the wheels get put on, when everything
is new and nonrusty and not stuck. don't most manufacturers have
similar screws on the rotors? I've seen a looooot of guys who don't
put them back when they finally get the rotors loose. it's not as if
the two philips screws are going to pull the rotor tight against the
hub through all the rust and crud, when the wheel stud nuts won't.

 

You may very well be correct. I did a search and found that there is much
disagreement on whether to use them or just leave them out.

But I checked the local Honda dealer online for parts. The screws appear to
just cost 47 cents each. For that price, I'll just play it safe and
reinstall them.

Any tips on removing the rotors one I drill out the screws?

Thanks for all the replies.

Honestly, I think the screws are just to keep the rotors from falling
off on the assembly line before the wheels get put on, when everything
is new and nonrusty and not stuck. don't most manufacturers have
similar screws on the rotors? I've seen a looooot of guys who don't
put them back when they finally get the rotors loose. it's not as if
the two philips screws are going to pull the rotor tight against the
hub through all the rust and crud, when the wheel stud nuts won't.

 

You'd think so, but that's not why they're there.

The real reason for those little screws is to keep the rotors from shifting
when you have the caliper off during brake servicing. If the rotors shift,
crud falls between the rotor and hub, causing brake vibration.

Not Toyota, for some very odd reason.

It's quite a lot more complicated than that...

 

See here for my own description, based on very much experience
with this very thing:
<http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.toyota/browse_frm/thread/19225956d59e45c2/2096a6c0819cdc56?lnk=st&q=#2096a6c0819cdc56>

 

that's pretty much it. they help with assembly, but mean nothing to the
integrity of the mechanicals.

 

I use the Harbor Freight caliper tool set for this on all corners.
It's often on sale for $19.99.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=40732

Wagnor might have rebox the pads from other manufacturers. The later
OEM Findlex (?) seem to last longer than the OEM Nissin. But I always
put Akebono ceramics on all cars I help work on.

www.akebonobrakes.com

 

I don't think it's true for Hondas, but one of my cars; maybe the
Mitsubishi (Plymouth Sapporo)? had a neat deal; if you managed to get
the two stupid little philips screws out of the rotor, there were two
additional threaded holes at 90 degrees to them where you could drive
the philips screws in, and they would bottom against the hub and bust
the rotor free. Of course, by the time a rotor got so crudded onto the
hub, the screws were well frozen in, and the threaded holes were
pretty corroded, but at least it's a nice thought.

 

Hondas and Toyotas have this as well. You'll see those holes in the photos
I referenced in my previous message.

But if the rotors are frozen to the hubs as in the example I referenced,
bolts in those little holes will do bugger all except crack the face of the
top hat.

That sort of rust which gets bad enough to hook the rotor onto the hub
seems to be something almost unique to the North-east of the US and Canada.
Posters outside this region do not seem to be able to get a handle on just
how bad it can be.

 

It's a good thing; holds the car together.