brakes at 40k miles

Hi, I drive a Civic LX manual transmission 2001 which I bought new in
2001. I live in the suburbs (Connecticut), drive 3 miles to work and
back and around town. In the weekends I drive sometimes on the highway.
I estimate 50-50 is highway/suburbs.

I had a free checkup done at the dealer and the car was OK. they said
the brages were fine, but I don't know how much pads I have left. Is
there a way to tell? I am about to do a tire rotation myself and I can
get a caliper to measure the thickness of the pads.

and since I finally moved my lazy ass and finally posted, here are some
more questions:

what about the clutch? how long does it last on AVERAGE (yes, I know it
depends a great deal on how you drive). But what is the *average* please?

what about tuneup? the manual says to geta new timing belt and a tuneup
done at 105K miles (IIRC). That seems a very long time; I have the
feeling the car does not start as easy as when it was new, but it
*always* starts fine. Maybe not in 1/2 second like before, now it seems
to take 3 seconds or so. Shall I get new spark plugs and wires???



Thanks a lot guys, you are great!

 

There is no need to check the brake pads with calipers. The brake pad consist
of smaller semi metallic friction material bonded to a larger steel plate.
Look at the friction material. If one is less than 1/16" thick, replace the
pads.

I still have original clutch on my 92 Civic cx with 172 kmiles.

 

No need for a caliper. When you take the wheel off you should be able to
see the edge of the brake pads - might have to brush off dust with a brush
through the caliper spring and shine a flashlight on it.

For friction lining only, without abuse, 150K mile is not unusual but the
pressure plate and/or friction plate springs can go any time before then.
You'll know something is wrong when it happens. Ignore Honda's lack of
specified change interval for the clutch fluid and replace every 30K miles
at the same time as brake fluid.

105K is the "normal" service schedule - the severe schedule of 60K miles
covers temp extremes and lots of short trips. For better starting, new
plugs will probably help - wires can easily last 150K miles or 10 years if
not abused by mechanics and kept clean: wipe them off with a rag soaked in
silicone spray. A bottle of fuel injector cleaner in the tank won't do any
harm and might help too. At 60K miles a new distributor cap and rotor is
not a bad idea.

Rgds, George Macdonald

"Just because they're paranoid doesn't mean you're not psychotic" - Who, me??

 

No need for a caliper. When you take the wheel off you should be able to
see the edge of the brake pads - might have to brush off dust with a brush
through the caliper spring and shine a flashlight on it.

For friction lining only, without abuse, 150K mile is not unusual but the
pressure plate and/or friction plate springs can go any time before then.
You'll know something is wrong when it happens. Ignore Honda's lack of
specified change interval for the clutch fluid and replace every 30K miles
at the same time as brake fluid.

105K is the "normal" service schedule - the severe schedule of 60K miles
covers temp extremes and lots of short trips. For better starting, new
plugs will probably help - wires can easily last 150K miles or 10 years if
not abused by mechanics and kept clean: wipe them off with a rag soaked in
silicone spray. A bottle of fuel injector cleaner in the tank won't do any
harm and might help too. At 60K miles a new distributor cap and rotor is
not a bad idea.

Rgds, George Macdonald

"Just because they're paranoid doesn't mean you're not psychotic" - Who, me??

 

Thanks a lot for your reply, here are some comments.

[snip, about brake pads]

Oh I see, i was talking about real measuring calipes like the ones you
use in a mcahine shop. I forgot there is a think at the brakes also
called calipers. Sure, I will look at the pads and measure how much is
left. What is it for new pads and what's the lowest limit???

[snip about clutch]

I thought there is no distributor cap or rotor on these cars? I was
under the impression there is some electronic device instead of the
rotor. Again, it is a newer model, 2001. I believe they had distributor
and rotor on the previous series wchich ended 2000. Right or wrong???

Thanks a lot!!!

 

Thanks a lot for your reply, here are some comments.

[snip, about brake pads]

Oh I see, i was talking about real measuring calipes like the ones you
use in a mcahine shop. I forgot there is a think at the brakes also
called calipers. Sure, I will look at the pads and measure how much is
left. What is it for new pads and what's the lowest limit???

[snip about clutch]

I thought there is no distributor cap or rotor on these cars? I was
under the impression there is some electronic device instead of the
rotor. Again, it is a newer model, 2001. I believe they had distributor
and rotor on the previous series wchich ended 2000. Right or wrong???

Thanks a lot!!!

 

1/16", that is 1.5 mm, OK, I can check that. How much is it when the pad
is new? thsi way i can figure out how much I used til now and how long
will last whatever is left. Right?

This is great. Thanks!

 

More than 1/4"

 

Usually initial thickness of friction material is 10-12mm - wear limit is
1.6mm and wear indicators will squeal at that.

Ah right, you have individual coil packs, in which case there are no high
tension spark plug wires so the original wires should rarely, if ever, need
replaced. Cleanliness is always good though. I find a small paintbrush
(1" wide or so) is great for cleaning up those areas.

Rgds, George Macdonald

"Just because they're paranoid doesn't mean you're not psychotic" - Who, me??

 

Usually initial thickness of friction material is 10-12mm - wear limit is
1.6mm and wear indicators will squeal at that.

Ah right, you have individual coil packs, in which case there are no high
tension spark plug wires so the original wires should rarely, if ever, need
replaced. Cleanliness is always good though. I find a small paintbrush
(1" wide or so) is great for cleaning up those areas.

Rgds, George Macdonald

"Just because they're paranoid doesn't mean you're not psychotic" - Who, me??

 

If it's starting slower than before, it is probably your battery dying
from old age. Especially if you're still on the OEM battery.

JM

 

If it's starting slower than before, it is probably your battery dying
from old age. Especially if you're still on the OEM battery.

JM

 

what's the voltage supposed to be? I got a digital volt meter. The
engine seems to turn over fine, just seems to take an extra 2-3 seconds.

 

what's the voltage supposed to be? I got a digital volt meter. The
engine seems to turn over fine, just seems to take an extra 2-3 seconds.

 

Here's one link that gives useful info on car battery voltages and specific
gravity. I've seen other tables that closely correspond to the table for
Low maintenance lead acid car batteries. Be sure to check the Temperature
Compensation table for battery temps other than 80F. Paragraph 4.3 talks
about removing the surface charge by waiting 6-12 hrs, but I've read other
suggestions to wait as little as 1 hour.

http://www.uuhome.de/william.darden/carfaq4.htm

 

Here's one link that gives useful info on car battery voltages and specific
gravity. I've seen other tables that closely correspond to the table for
Low maintenance lead acid car batteries. Be sure to check the Temperature
Compensation table for battery temps other than 80F. Paragraph 4.3 talks
about removing the surface charge by waiting 6-12 hrs, but I've read other
suggestions to wait as little as 1 hour.

http://www.uuhome.de/william.darden/carfaq4.htm

 

Brake linings and clutches are very dependent on how you drive.
My 2000 Accord took its first set of front brakes at 90K, but I did a
lot of highway driving. Pads still had 3/16" of meat on them, but the
rotors were starting to warp, so I replaced them along with the pads.
Now I am fighting rush hour traffic on the Baltimore Beltway almost
every day, so I will probably take a serious look at replacing them in
perhaps half that interval. Back brakes will probably last me almost
forever, based on the wear I saw at 110K. Then again, I have seen some
Testosterone poisoned teens with a 93 Accord wear out the brakes in less
than 20,000 miles.

Clutches are variable as well, but the original Honda ones seem to hold
up better than most. I purchased a very well used (170,000 miles) 1991
Civic from my company, which used it as a service vehicle. I talked to
the tech that put most of the miles on it, and he did not remember
putting a clutch in it, though the car saw its share of heavy Washington
DC stop and go traffic. At 223,000 miles, I could detect a little bit of
clutch slippage just a few weeks before I pulled the tired engine out to
swap it with one out of a salvage yard, and the clutch lining was just
barely worn down to the rivets. That car is still going at 290,000
miles, according to the friend I sold it to.

A 1985 Nissan Pickup I used to have went 110,000 on the original clutch,
but about the time I replaced the first clutch, I started towing a 17
foot boat. The second clutch lasted only 20,000 miles, due to the abuse
of towing the boat, the third only 50,000 miles, and the fourth had
about 30,000 on it when I got rid of the truck.

As far as your starting problem, what might be happening is that it
takes a little longer for the fuel pressure to build up in the
injectors, or they may be clogged. Try waiting a few seconds after
putting the ignition switch to "on" to try starting it. You should hear
the purr of the electric fuel pump for a second or two as it pressurizes
the system. Could be a leaky injector is letting fuel dribble out into
the manifold when the car is off. Nothing serious, but something you
might get checked if plugs don't help. Wires are probably a waste of
money on a 3 year old car, Genuine Honda wires are expensive, and a lot
of aftermarket wires are junk.

The timing Belt is designed to go 105,000 miles, but should not be put
off longer. Honda's engines are Interference engines, meaning that the
pistons will hit the valves if they are fully open when the pistons
travel to the top of the cylinders (TDC). Normally this isn't a problem
as long as the timing belt is intact, and the valve timing is correct.
If the belt should break while the engine is running, then chances are
that one or more valves will be hanging open when the piston comes
around to TDC. If you are lucky, only the cylinder head will be damaged.
If not, then the whole engine could end up trashed. The water pump
is also run by the timing belt, and it is a good idea to replace it as
well, since a pump is fairly cheap ($50 or so), and the additional labor
to replace it is minimal if you are already changing the belt.

You have a while before you need to worry about the timing belt thing
though, if you have only put 40K on your Honda in 3 years.

 

Brake linings and clutches are very dependent on how you drive.
My 2000 Accord took its first set of front brakes at 90K, but I did a
lot of highway driving. Pads still had 3/16" of meat on them, but the
rotors were starting to warp, so I replaced them along with the pads.
Now I am fighting rush hour traffic on the Baltimore Beltway almost
every day, so I will probably take a serious look at replacing them in
perhaps half that interval. Back brakes will probably last me almost
forever, based on the wear I saw at 110K. Then again, I have seen some
Testosterone poisoned teens with a 93 Accord wear out the brakes in less
than 20,000 miles.

Clutches are variable as well, but the original Honda ones seem to hold
up better than most. I purchased a very well used (170,000 miles) 1991
Civic from my company, which used it as a service vehicle. I talked to
the tech that put most of the miles on it, and he did not remember
putting a clutch in it, though the car saw its share of heavy Washington
DC stop and go traffic. At 223,000 miles, I could detect a little bit of
clutch slippage just a few weeks before I pulled the tired engine out to
swap it with one out of a salvage yard, and the clutch lining was just
barely worn down to the rivets. That car is still going at 290,000
miles, according to the friend I sold it to.

A 1985 Nissan Pickup I used to have went 110,000 on the original clutch,
but about the time I replaced the first clutch, I started towing a 17
foot boat. The second clutch lasted only 20,000 miles, due to the abuse
of towing the boat, the third only 50,000 miles, and the fourth had
about 30,000 on it when I got rid of the truck.

As far as your starting problem, what might be happening is that it
takes a little longer for the fuel pressure to build up in the
injectors, or they may be clogged. Try waiting a few seconds after
putting the ignition switch to "on" to try starting it. You should hear
the purr of the electric fuel pump for a second or two as it pressurizes
the system. Could be a leaky injector is letting fuel dribble out into
the manifold when the car is off. Nothing serious, but something you
might get checked if plugs don't help. Wires are probably a waste of
money on a 3 year old car, Genuine Honda wires are expensive, and a lot
of aftermarket wires are junk.

The timing Belt is designed to go 105,000 miles, but should not be put
off longer. Honda's engines are Interference engines, meaning that the
pistons will hit the valves if they are fully open when the pistons
travel to the top of the cylinders (TDC). Normally this isn't a problem
as long as the timing belt is intact, and the valve timing is correct.
If the belt should break while the engine is running, then chances are
that one or more valves will be hanging open when the piston comes
around to TDC. If you are lucky, only the cylinder head will be damaged.
If not, then the whole engine could end up trashed. The water pump
is also run by the timing belt, and it is a good idea to replace it as
well, since a pump is fairly cheap ($50 or so), and the additional labor
to replace it is minimal if you are already changing the belt.

You have a while before you need to worry about the timing belt thing
though, if you have only put 40K on your Honda in 3 years.

 

when you hear that squealing sound coming from that little metal clip
theyput on the pad to let you know its time to get new pads...its time to
get new pads.

 

when you hear that squealing sound coming from that little metal clip
theyput on the pad to let you know its time to get new pads...its time to
get new pads.