Capacitor on 2005 Accord

How do I know when I need a capacitor? I have the 6-channel Infinity amp at
600 watts. It handles the 4-channels and the sub. Do I need a capacitor?

 

I'd go with other power upgrades first before you waste your money on a
capacitor. Start with the basics (better battery, bigger wires from
alternator to battery, bigger grounding wires, bigger alternator, etc
etc)

 

Thanks, but the question is, do I need to do any of that or am I good as it
is?

 

Are you having any issues? Sound cut-outs? Dimming headlights on bass
notes?

 

If you aren't having any of the issues above, then you don't need to do
anything at this point.

 

I am asking this BEFORE I actually attempt to put it in. So this is the
purpose of the thread is to find out before hand.

 

With the equipment you are listing, I'd say probably not needed.

 

Based on any car audio information I've ever ready, you normally don't need
a capacitor unless you're running multiple amps, or are exceeding 1000
watts. With a 600 watt, you should be fine. I have a 400 watt amp driving
2, 12" subs, frequently at maximum output for extended periods of time and
I've never had a problem.

 

You had that on same 05 Accord? This is the amp I have:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-T9ufAspOcJI/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=120&I=108R5761A

When adding it up, it is 646 watts. Would you also recommend a head unit in
the pocket or to replace the factory?

 

I've got mine in an 03 Accord but it's basically the same model. That amp
support speaker level inputs so you shouldn't have any problems running it
off the factory stereo, even though it doesn't have amp preouts. Just tap
into the rear speaker wire. You may however, notice so some distortion from
doing this since you're amplifying a signal that has already been amplified.
I would install the amp using the speaker level inputs for now, and buy a
new head unit only if you notice enough distortion to bother you.

If you do decide to replace the head unit, this might help you out. It's a
little pricey but it'll get the job done nicely. The other cheaper adapters
I've seen, take up the storage compartment in front of the gear shifter.
Those suck. You not only lose your storage bin, but the stereo is in an
place that's hard to reach when loading CDs.

http://www.autotoys.com/x/catalog/HONDA_ACCORD_20032004_T2__TOP_MOUNT_TURBO2_DASH_KIT_p_164.html

 

Thanks. I knew I should have gone with another vehicle, but I was too
afraid to change brands. I loved the resale value of that Civic.

 

Nah, can't go wrong with the Honda. Actually, the head unit in the Accord
isn't too bad. It goes well with my 2 12" subs. That's all the boom I'd
want in a car. Even with the speaker level inputs there's no distortion in
my bass. I hear the new Civic has a pretty bad ass stereo in it, but again,
it's built into front dash. It would be even harder to upgrade than the
current accord. If not impossible. At least the accord, the stereo
faceplace can be changed with that thing I linked to. The civic it's
actually part of the dashboard. Brutal descision on Honda's part for anyone
who likes aftermarket stereos.

 

Based on any car audio information I've ever ready, you normally don't
need

I have a single 12" pioneer sub with a mono amp (pushing 360 watts) into 2
ohms, and when I turn it up (around 30 out of 40) and a big bass note hits,
my headlights dim... any idea why? I've heard thoughts saying a capicator
will stop this, but I've also heard a lot of peopel saying a Cap is just a
"band aid" and you shoudl upgrade your alt... or wires instead of a cap. the
thing is I'm only pushing 360 watts.... I was pretty suprised my headlights
are dimming, any idea why?

-Nick

 

If that is your only issue, then a cap is the answer. The purpose behind a
cap is to provide the short term transient power for a surge such as you
describe.

But be VERY careful when installing the cap. Only handle it while it is
discharged and wear no jewelry while working around it.