Check Engine Light - PO1456

Hi,

I was driving my 98 Accord when the "Check Engine Light" lit. I have a
stick-shift and i just replaced not too long ago a O2 sensor.

This time i went to Honda and asked them to read the code and they came
back with PO1456.

Does any of you know what this code is?

Thanks,

Filipe

 

P1456 is EVAP Emission Control System Leak Detected (Fuel Tank System).

My book with my OBD II Code Reader doesn't have anything showing for PO1456.

Aside from that if you went to your dealer to have the code read, why didn't
you ask them to tell you what the code meant?

Brian

 

Brian,

Thank you for your reply.

Honda makes great cars. I wish they would make great professionals.

They wanted to charge $90 to check the code. I said i wouldn't pay and
that i wanted them to just give me the code.

To be quite honest, i was quite happy to leave the place and i wish
didn't have to look into their faces ever again.

Having said that it seems that i have to go back because this doesn't
sound like something i could do on my own...

What do you think?

Thanks,

Filipe

 

Hi All,

Based on Brian's great tip I found that this is typically the gas cap
problem. Now, the problem is if the gas cap was properly sealed. That
means that i can have an actual EVAP system problem. Any tips on this
one?

My car has been idle for long periods of time since I'm travelling most
of the time. The car had been idle for 2 weeks and with a very small
amount of gas in the tank. I was really "reving-up" the engine when the
light came on.

Any help would be precious.

Thanks,

Filipe

 

There's some real dirtbag dealerships out there. I got reamed by my
local dealership when I asked them to check my front end alignment.
They charged me $60 (5-6 yrs ago) for a look-see and then told me my
front tires had broken cords and needed replacement before they could
check the alignment. It was a year later before I discovered present
day alignment test equipment doesn't give a crap if there's even a
tire on the car. IOW, I got fucked. This because I told them I
wanted to talk to the mechanic when he did the check because I didn't
trust most mechanics. I think they just wanted to prove they could
screw me without me knowing any better. Due to my complete ignorance
of front end mechanics, they were right. ANYWAY! ...my point is, if
you suspect wrongdoing by your dealer, you might try taking it to
Honda USA. That's how it used to be. Back in the 70's when I was a
bike wrench, Yammy, Honda, and the other nip bike companies had
customer relations depts that would come down hard on dealers that
pulled shady shit on the customer. I don't know if it's like that
now, but it never hurts to try.

nb

 

wrote in

No, a P1456. No such code as P01456.

Fuel filler cap is loose.

Tighten *at least SIX* clicks. Wait three engine on-off cycles. Light
should go off.

If it does not go off, the cap may not fit tightly enough for a proper
seal. Replace cap. Occasionally, the threads in the filler necks can be
damaged, preventing the cap from being properly tightened.

 

The EVAP system is sophisticated enough that there is a unique code for
pretty much each separate problem.

 

Just about all dealers will charge to diagnose the computer and will eat the
charge if it requires warranty work or you have them fix the problem. Why
not? You are asking them to spend their time and effort and give it to you
for free. Do you work for free? If you want it done free buy an OBDII
scanner and read it yourself. Since you got the code a simple Google search
would give you more information about it than you should ever need. Now for
a free diagnosis a goon overreving the engine with an empty tank can cause
all sorts of problems which could include blowing out the catalytic
converter. Fill the tank, tighten the cap at least five clicks or preferably
more, drive it around for a week and see if the light goes off. Or find
someone with an OBDII tester who will reset it for you for free....

 

I had that problem with my 2000 Odyssey. Replaced gas cap. Not it.
Finally had the dealer replace the filler neck. That worked. I had bought
the extended warranty so I only paid the $50 deductible.

 

Woody,

Thank you so much for your feedback.

I'm a consultant myself. I ask people to buy my knowledge on a hourly
basis.

I didn't ask Honda for a diagnostic of the problem. I asked them to
give me the code in the context of a $30 oil change.

It seems to me that when a regular oil change costs $12 it wouldn't be
too much to ask.

What do you think?

And to be quite honest, i got hand-written on the invoice the code
"PO1456" (I'm not an expert and therefore i wouldn't come up with that
number myself).

They could have told me - "... don't worry just tight up the gas
cap..." but they didn't nor (important factor) did i ask.

Hope this makes it a little bit more clear.

Thanks,

Filipe

 

Who are you replying to? Me or the OP? I'm quite aware dealers and
most shops now charge for diagnosis time. This, no doubt, because
most mechanics are now dumber'n a bag o' hammers and take hours to
figure out a prob. Back when my brother and I were wrenches,
diagnosis time was on the shop and actual repair time was flat rate.
Now, since the early 90's, it's screw the customer long and hard.
Charge for diagnosis, charge for the inexperience of the mechanics,
charge for whatever time it takes, be it 3 or 6 hours. Hell, charge
for crapper breaks! Ever since Sears discovered the general public no
longer knows the difference between a pitman arm and a valve cap and
no langer cares to know, it's an 80 grit Trojan to the public ...no
lubrication!

Hell, I expected this kinda crap from the dirtbags rednecks in
Southern hillbilly burg filling stations in the South or last chance
garages on trans-continental highways (Rt66) bach in the 60-70's.
But, not from today's million dollar high tech dealers/shops. Silly
me. The bottom line is still caveat emptor ...buyer beware! They'll
screw you if you let 'em.

nb

 

No such number.


P1456, yes. P01456, no.

And any error code starting with "P0" contains a ZERO, not the letter "O".

P0 codes are standard EPA-mandated codes. P1, P2, etc are automaker-
specific "enhanced" codes not required by the EPA.

 

Doctors, lawyers, engineers: You name the profession, they all have this
"work" ethic.

Why shouldn't mechanics be getting their cut?

Shucks, some surgeons don't know to check that the blood type of the organ
they're transplanting is compatible with the recipient's.

If the market were truly free, then I'd say the market is a wonderful place.

Elle
Knows many technicians who are smarter than doctors and lawyers.

 

The dealership I deal with charges $46.00 plus tax of course, to check the
code and reset the light. That's why I purchased the OBD II reader. After
six uses it will have more than paid for itself.

I've had the same code come up in the past, once the light is reset (in my
case) it never came back on. It could be a very infrequent occurrence. If it
comes on again, I would investigate it further at that time.

Brian

 

Thanks Elle,
For Quick code reading I have a cheap scanner. $600.00. Startup time is
quick does all OBDII, some OBD1. the shops scanners; one is a older snap-on.
2700 new. The new scanner is a gyenises, the basic one is around 3000.00,
with all the upgrades for almost all cars about 5000.00. My dream scanner
is a Modis by snap-on 8000.00 for the options I want. Dealers have there own
scanners that can do lots more on the brand car than the generic models.
Most techs get paid by the job, and have to pay for the tools. There
for we don't care if the customer wants a free service with there 30.00 oil
change, we want to get that car out of there if there not going to buy
anything else so we can keep trying to earn a living.


--
Stephen W. Hansen
ASE Certified Master Automobile Technician
ASE Undercar Specialist


http://www.troublecodes.net/technical/

 

It's been many years since I worked as a motor mechanic. I wasn't
aware the profession had degraded so much.

nb

 

This is good information for folks here and customers in general to have.

That's another, what, like $3000 right there for a "basic" tool set.

That is /completely/ understandable.

At least your profession is not in cahoots with the insurance industry and
academia to push up prices more than any other profession of which I can
think, burying customers in far more undecipherable paperwork, for which
getting answers is far more difficult.

I won't even elaborate on the countless government "workers" (as well as
private industry workers) who post to the net on my tax dollar or on company
time, for fun or whatever. One will not see auto technicians doing this.
They're too busy actually earning a living.

 

-->GOOD NEWS! MY PROBLEM WAS SOLVED!<--

I'm happy to announce that late last night when i was driving home, the
light turned off. I followed the advice of turning the gas cap a even
more - 5 clicks ++.

I believe that it clear that Honda needs to offer the service for free
since it should be mandatory to show the ECU code in the dashboard.

This Honda dearlership called me for the regular post-morten "customer
satisfaction". I really gave a lot of "1"s. I hope to talk to Honda
Corporation.

I believe i need to move to Accura. Same manufacture.... different
Customer Support... sad... sad...

 

$149.99 at Canadian Tire for the basic OBD II Reader with reset capability.

Brian