Civic clutch fluid change

Hey,

I want to change the fluid in my 2001 Civic's clutch system. What fluid do I
use (Honda brake fluid?) and can I just crack the lower bleed fitting and
top up the reservoir and let the new fluid replace the old through gravity
as it runs out? I don't really have a helper and I don't want to risk
getting a bunch or air in the system.

Thanks,
Craig

 

Does Honda give a maintenance interval on this? I ask because its the same
as brake fluid, and gets used a lot less. Methinks it should last longer
than 2 years...has it been contaminated?

Any quality DOT 4 fluid would work fine...as well as Hondas brand if that
gives you piece of mind.

Doubt it. The clutch master cylinder will have to be cycled anyway, to get
out ALL of the fluid out...especially if it has been contaminated.

Its not brain surgery, and it doesn't take a rocket scientist to do it.

Here's how its done:

SET PARKING BRAKE!

Get about a foot and a half of rubber vacuum tubing or the like. Place your
box end wrench on the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder. Push the tubing
onto the flare nipple on the valve. Get a coffee can and plastic lid. Cut a
small "X" in the top, and shove the other end of the tubing into that,
making sure the tubing is setting on the bottom of the can. Once some fluid
is in the bottom, this will ensure no air will "back feed" even if the
rocket scientist fouls up.

Start: Now have your scientist pump the clutch a couple times, and hold it
hard to the floor. Tell him not to move until you say so. Now open the
valve. The clutch springs will expand, pushing the slave cylinder piston in,
displacing the fluid out the bleeder valve. Now close the valve smartly, and
go back to "Start:"

Repeat, *being careful to keep the reservoir topped off at all times*, until
good clean fluid is seen coming out.

Piece 'o cake...good luck.

 

bleeding your clutch:

use Honda brake fluid or any good DOT3/4 (not sure if DOT3 applies). I use
Valvoline synthetic Br fluid
connect a plastic tube to the bleeding nut and route it into the EMPTY
bottle of beer (MGD works the best ;-))
cover everything on your way with shop towels
top up the reservoir with fluid
unscrew bleeding nut until old dirty fluid starts to drip (just a little
bit)
go to the car and press onto clutch pedal. DONT pull the pedal back.
go back to your bottle and tighten that little nut
go back to the car and pull clutch pedal back
pump 3-5 times that pedal (to create sorta pressure in the line)
go to the bottle and untighten lil nut until old fluid starts to drip
go back to the car and press the clutch pedal all the way down. DONT pull it
back
go back to your bottle and tighten that little nut
go back to the car and pull clutch pedal back
pump 3-5 times that pedal again (to create sorta pressure in the line)

make sure your reservoir is full at all times
if you want to get rid of ALL old fluid - DONT add new fluid until level of
the old fluid is REALLY low (but you risk to get air in the system, so be
accurate and FAST)

the main idea here is that you pull your pedal back ONLY when line is closed
(so that there is a vacuum in it)

this is why we call it "bleeding"

having a girlfriend will shorten the process a lot

eraser

 

[snip]

[snip]

Great advice eraser, but some cars have a separate "pedal spring" that will
return the pedal to its "up" position regardless.

I might also add that if you do it this way, *press the pedal down slowly*
if you want you tubing to stay on.

This may, or may not be of any consequence, but rather a side note.

 

That is a perfectly acceptable way of doing it.

Attach a hose from the bleed screw to a container to prevent a mess. Or do
it someplace where you don't care about the mess and just let it drip. If
the fluid gets on any paint inside the engine compartment, wipe it off when
you're done.

 

used a lot less?

But I shift gears about 3 or 4 times for every time I use the brakes.

it's real simple to change the fluid, but you do need a helper.

 

Agree, being cautious is always helpful.
However, even though there is a spring, vacuum inside clutch master cylinder
will hold pedal pressed in. If not, please use some help. It is an easy
(but lo-o-ong) one man job on my 92 and 95 Civics.
Dont worry about tubing. Firstly, it shouldn't have any air leaks, therefore
it HAS to be pretty tight at the first place. Secondly, there is not so much
pressure in the clutch line to blow out our MGD bottle... and the tube.
;-)))

eraser

 

open bleeder screw, attach hose, open the resivour make sure it is topped
off.

Press down and pull the clutch pedal back up 5 times, top off the fluid.
Repeat 4-5 times, making sure to keep the fluid topped off.

Honda put a check valve in the system somewhere, no need to bleed the clutch
like a brakes system. I just had to bleed my system last Friday morning,
took 5 minutes with my son working the clutch pedal.

--
Charles Tague
93 Honda Civic DX HB
1.6L SOHC VTEC 14.85 @ 89 mph,1.98 60 ft.
With ZEX 85 hp ZEX 13.09 @ 103 mph, 1.81 60ft.
86 Pontiac Trans Am
225/50/15 GForce Drag Radials
305 peanut cammed 15.29 @ 88 mph
http://home.cinci.rr.com/mistab0ne/

 

The clutch fluid isn't submitted to the high pressure and displacement of
the brake fluid.

 

Thanks for the great replies. I'm off to get some fluid!

Now I just have to convert that nasty mechanical linkage on my CJ to a
hydraulic unit!
Craig.

 

Hi Craig,

I've read quite a few responses to your request. While I agree gravity
and/or pedal pressure will do the trick, I recommend the Mityvac hand vacuum
pump . Makes one-man brake and/or clutch bleeding easy -- just connect to
the nipple on the slave cylinder, slowly pump to suck out the old fluid
while you keep the reservoir topped up with clean stuff. I paid about $20
for one at Napa.

-rock-