Civic Timing Belt Saga - Continued

Discussion in 'Civic' started by disallow, Nov 14, 2004.

  1. disallow

    disallow Guest

    Hi there,

    So here I am, back again. Hat in hand, looking for ideas,
    or at least some reassurance that I didn't totally f&*(ck
    up my poor little 98 civic LX (D16Y7).

    Since the timing belt job, I have gone thru 1 tank of
    fuel. I filled up on Friday, and have driven 100kms and
    gone thru almost 1/4 tank! (This could be due in part to
    not filling up allll the way, but I am pretty sure the
    problem is bigger than that.) I gauged my mileage on the
    last tank, it was around 25MPG (US gallons). (BRUTAL)

    My exhaust smells different than before. It doesn't smell
    bad, it smells more like when the car was new. Kind of a
    sweet smell, not really sulphur. Performance is steady
    throughout the range of all RPMs, no weird vibrations at
    low or high RPMs, car still hits 180KPH no problem.

    I have, in the past 2 months, also replaced distributor
    cap, rotor, and plug wires. My plugs are under 1 yr old,
    but were running with the weak cap, rotor, and wires until
    I replaced them.

    Here are my theories:

    1. I need to replace my spark plugs. They were a little
    carbonned up, but not really that bad. The insulator had some arcing
    marks on it on 2, probably from my bad wires.
    I did re-gap them when I put them back in during the t-
    belt replacement.

    2. Ignition timing may be off. Either I need to set my
    ignition timing, or I am off by one tooth on the timing
    belt.

    There are conflicting reports of what this engine does
    when it is off by one tooth. Some say it won't run at
    all, others say it runs with reduced power, still others
    say it just affects gas mileage a whole lot. I'm not too
    sure what to believe.

    How much does the computer advance/retard timing on its
    own? From what I have read, one tooth off means that it
    would be 18 degrees advanced or retarded. Also, the guy
    mentioned that the distributor can only adjust for 5
    degrees when you adjust it manually.

    The site I saw this on was:

    http://www.cadvision.com/blanchas/54pontiac/honda.html

    I have not checked my timing yet. I will wait to hear
    back from the group on opinions of this action.

    3. So theory 3 is that I am just being paranoid, and need
    to give the ECU some time to reprogram itself from when I
    reset it during the t-belt replacement procedure.

    How long can this take? Can it 'teach itself' the wrong
    F/A mixtures and cause the problems with mileage? Should
    I reset it again?

    Any thoughts are appreciated.

    Oh ya, and I checked my tire pressure, 32PSI all
    around.... and I ran some FI Cleaner through the system
    about a month ago.

    Thanks
    t
     
    disallow, Nov 14, 2004
    #1
  2. disallow

    disallow Guest

    Also, I replaed the PCV valve recently with an OEM valve from honda.

    t
     
    disallow, Nov 14, 2004
    #2
  3. Start with the ignition timing. If it is off by something like 10 degrees
    either way, bet on having the timing belt one tooth off. D'oh! but no real
    danger there. If the valve/ignition timing is retarded, the engine usually
    doesn't want to start or idle, and it will have an odd hollow exhaust note.
    Advanced timing will let it start and idle okay, but with "issues."

    Mike
     
    Michael Pardee, Nov 14, 2004
    #3
  4. disallow

    motsco_ _ Guest

    You need to check your CAM timing, not your ignition timing. Ignition
    timing will be OK if the TB is in place correctly. You can't compensate
    one to correct the other.

    Read this wonderful 'Peach Basket' article one more time to understand
    why cam timing is so important:

    http://honda.lathi.net/faq.html#interference

    The Vtec article also is enlightening . . .

    'Curly'
     
    motsco_ _, Nov 14, 2004
    #4
  5. Isn't the ignition timing dependent on cam timing on this model? (I know
    some engines use flywheel timing, but I thought this vintage Honda at least
    use a cam driven distributor with reluctor in it.) It is definitely possible
    to tweak the ignition timing to hide bad cam timing, while leaving the
    valves mistimed, but if the distributor wasn't touched the ignition timing
    should reflect cam timing on SOHC engines. On DOHC, the other cam is still
    anybody's guess.

    Mike
     
    Michael Pardee, Nov 14, 2004
    #5
  6. disallow

    lamont1 Guest

    WHEN U CHANGE A TIMING BELT, USUALLY WITH THE NEW BELT THE TIMING WILL BE
    ADVANCED BECAUSE THE OLD BELT MAY HAVE BEEN A B IT STRETCHED WHICH WOULD
    HAVE CAUSED IT TO BE RETARDED. IF THE MECHANIC SETS THE TIMING ON A SLIGHTLY
    STRETCHED BELT AND YOU THEN PUT ON A NEW BELT THE TIMING WILL BE ADVANCED. I
    THINK THAT RETARDED TIMING COULD CAUSE BAD MILEAGE BUT S OUNDS LIKE YOU DID
    MORE THAN JUST CHANGE THE BELT. JUST TAKE OFF THE TIMING BELT COVER. LINE UP
    THE TIMING CAM MARKS AND CHECK TO SEE T HAT THE FIRST PISTON IS AT TDC. IF
    IT IS AT TDC MECHANICAL TIMING IS FINE. YOU CAN TURN THE ENGINE AT THE
    PULLEY CRANK BOLT.
     
    lamont1, Nov 15, 2004
    #6
  7. alt.autos.honda
    With the Message-ID: <bO7md.5709$2V4.4021@trndny06>
    And the Organization Header: .
    Please stop shouting.

    SAZ
     
    Sten-Arne Zerpe, Nov 15, 2004
    #7
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