Cleaning Contacts of Bulb Sockets

One of my 91 Civic LX's rear, side brake lights partly went
out recently. Moving the bulb back and forth caused it to
come on again. Then I found another socket and bulb where
this was happening.

Is there a clever way or tool to get some sand paper, a
file, spray, or whatever into the socket to really scrape
down the contacts and clean them?

 

A jeweler's screwdriver has worked for me in the past, for similar types of
work.

 

A jeweler's screwdriver has worked for me in the past, for similar types of
work.

 

Get a piece of wooden dowel small enough to get into the socket. Glue a
pice of fine sandpaper to the end of it and cut it to fit the dowel's
diameter. Interposing a thin sheet of foam between the dowe and the paper
will allow the paper to flex a bit for more contact with the studs.
Wrapping the sandpaper around the sides of the dowel will facilitate
cleaning the base's sides was well.

Use a bendy drinking straw to blow the dust out without getting it in your
face.

When reinstalling, smear a thin layer of white lithium grease all over the
bulb's metal base before installing to retard further corrosion.

A handy tip: Don't use bare brass-based bulbs as commonly found in the
aftermarket. It's worth it so seek out ones with the correct nickel-plated
bases as they resist corrosion for longer.

Original Koito and Stanley bulbs can be obtained here:
http://www.candlepowerinc.com/
or
www.danielsternlighting.com

 

Get a piece of wooden dowel small enough to get into the socket. Glue a
pice of fine sandpaper to the end of it and cut it to fit the dowel's
diameter. Interposing a thin sheet of foam between the dowe and the paper
will allow the paper to flex a bit for more contact with the studs.
Wrapping the sandpaper around the sides of the dowel will facilitate
cleaning the base's sides was well.

Use a bendy drinking straw to blow the dust out without getting it in your
face.

When reinstalling, smear a thin layer of white lithium grease all over the
bulb's metal base before installing to retard further corrosion.

A handy tip: Don't use bare brass-based bulbs as commonly found in the
aftermarket. It's worth it so seek out ones with the correct nickel-plated
bases as they resist corrosion for longer.

Original Koito and Stanley bulbs can be obtained here:
http://www.candlepowerinc.com/
or
www.danielsternlighting.com

 

I just want to double check, because I'm a little surprised.
You mean the stuff that one applies to car door hinges, hood
latches, etc., every couple of years or so, right? Not
dielectric grease? (Though it does make sense the white
lithium grease could protect against corrosion better.)

Brian, I did start going at the contacts with a small, worn
screwdriver but will try my super tiny jeweler's screwdriver
next.

I should have added that I think the spring mechanism that
assists holding the bulb in place has deformed both the
contacts within the socket as well as the bulb's contacts.

Tegger, the first lamp to fail (one of two of its filaments
failed, that is) was indeed brass. The other non-brass ones
are doing better but one is still iffy.

Dumb little thing, but one has gotta have good brake lights.

Thanks Tegger and Brian.

 

I just want to double check, because I'm a little surprised.
You mean the stuff that one applies to car door hinges, hood
latches, etc., every couple of years or so, right? Not
dielectric grease? (Though it does make sense the white
lithium grease could protect against corrosion better.)

Brian, I did start going at the contacts with a small, worn
screwdriver but will try my super tiny jeweler's screwdriver
next.

I should have added that I think the spring mechanism that
assists holding the bulb in place has deformed both the
contacts within the socket as well as the bulb's contacts.

Tegger, the first lamp to fail (one of two of its filaments
failed, that is) was indeed brass. The other non-brass ones
are doing better but one is still iffy.

Dumb little thing, but one has gotta have good brake lights.

Thanks Tegger and Brian.

 

Either one is fine. I use regular white grease on my contacts.

 

Either one is fine. I use regular white grease on my contacts.

 

You just do not want a -electrically conductive- grease.(like a moly
grease)
Isn't lithium a METAL,and conductive?
Perhaps the lithium is a oxide or Li-compound and not conductive,but I
would not chance it.It would be a PITA to get out,if the socket survived
it.


The contact pressure should squeeze out the grease at the contact point,but
prevent O2 from getting in around the rest of the contact.

You might consider Caig Deoxit as a contact cleaner/protectant,available at
Radio Shack.

 

You can buy eraser refills (about .25" dia.)for those 0.5mm ultra-fine
mechanical pencils at Wal-Mart,a couple of bucks,and thread them onto a
Dremel mandril.

 

For the archives, after Tegger's comment, I dug further.
Some folks do use the white lithium grease on electrical
contacts, but they caution it's not for (1) really hot
applications; and (2) probably shouldn't be used where the
grease can melt down into the socket.

The preference seems to be the dielectric grease, but it's
not like it's required.

I went at all six bulbs and sockets in the trunk's rear,
with a jeweler's screwdriver, some sand paper, some acetone,
Q-tips, and dielectric grease. Bought some new bulbs (no
brass), though Autozone had only two brands (one long life,
the other not) that fit for my car. It's been a few years
since I replaced any bulbs back there, and I do check once a
year. Hopefully the bulb's bottom contacts just get mashed
from the spring action which retains them in the socket,
meaning they'll last another few years.

Otherwise, it's off to Tegger's online sites for bulbs or
maybe Majestic or my local Honda dealer.

Thanks for the additional input, Jim Y. and Curly.

 

Here is a link to the "clever tool". This and some type of grease is
all you need!

 

Here is a link to the "clever tool". This and some type of grease is
all you need!

 

electrical contact cleaner, and your finger stuck in a rag.

 

electrical contact cleaner, and your finger stuck in a rag.

 

That was gonna be my suggestion too. Pencil erasers are great for
cleaning electrical contacts.

 

That was gonna be my suggestion too. Pencil erasers are great for
cleaning electrical contacts.