Cleaning Honda Engine Compartment - Need Advice

I have a 97 accord with 130K miles. The engine compartment is filthy
and I would like it to look as clean as my exterior, especially before
I eventually sell it. It seems that the consesus is to use something
mild like simple green and to spray it on a cool engine and then after
rinse with low pressure water.
It is not clear however which under hood components need to be covered
up to prevent damage by water or simple green. I would like to tap the
experience of Honda owners who regulary clean their engine bays and
ask what they cover up when doing this procedure and with what do you
cover it with. Thanks

 

cover all electricals. common sense. dizzy, fuses, spark plug cover on
dohc, alternator, etc. cover spark plug wires well where they meet the
valve cover, otherwise you'll have a fun afternoon sucking through a
straw.

 

I've been using the commercial wand-style carwashes on engines for decades.

I prop the hood up, put my quarters in the timer, and give the wholc vehicle
a
once-over, from at least 3 feet away, just to get it all wet, engine
compartment
included. I then go top to bottom on the whole vehicle, underside of the
hood,
top of the hood, and yes, the whole engine. The engine comes clean without
having to have the concentrated water stream so close that it will invade
areas
that are better off water free. Just use common sense.

Then rinse; again with a common sense distance between the area being washed
and the nozzle.

I wash radiators, too, just not so close as to deform the fins, and always
with as
perpendicular an angle to the fins as I can.

Never had any problems. YMMV.

 

I've been using the commercial wand-style carwashes on engines for decades.

I prop the hood up, put my quarters in the timer, and give the wholc vehicle
a
once-over, from at least 3 feet away, just to get it all wet, engine
compartment
included. I then go top to bottom on the whole vehicle, underside of the
hood,
top of the hood, and yes, the whole engine. The engine comes clean without
having to have the concentrated water stream so close that it will invade
areas
that are better off water free. Just use common sense.

Then rinse; again with a common sense distance between the area being washed
and the nozzle.

I wash radiators, too, just not so close as to deform the fins, and always
with as
perpendicular an angle to the fins as I can.

Never had any problems. YMMV.

 

I've been using the commercial wand-style carwashes on engines for decades.

I prop the hood up, put my quarters in the timer, and give the wholc vehicle
a
once-over, from at least 3 feet away, just to get it all wet, engine
compartment
included. I then go top to bottom on the whole vehicle, underside of the
hood,
top of the hood, and yes, the whole engine. The engine comes clean without
having to have the concentrated water stream so close that it will invade
areas
that are better off water free. Just use common sense.

Then rinse; again with a common sense distance between the area being washed
and the nozzle.

I wash radiators, too, just not so close as to deform the fins, and always
with as
perpendicular an angle to the fins as I can.

Never had any problems. YMMV.

 

Simple Green is not mild and is corrosive to aluminum engines. The
Army has send out a notice for aircraft maintenance shops to stop
using it on aircraft for that reason. Since you are getting it ready
to sell, make sure that you complete the sale before the aluminum
engine starts turning white. A better and safer cleaner is Varsol.
Cleans great and causes no damage to any of the parts.

 

A good spray of CRC especially meant to "dewater" engines after you cover
the distributor, and high voltage spark plug components will help. Otherwise
you could end up with a no start, due to high voltage going all over the
place. A good degreaser applied several minutes before applying a high
pressure water jet will do it. The alternator is resistant to water and is
not usually affected by it, as it dries out very quickly. Don't clean it
when the engine is still HOT. When its warm its easier to clean, so do it
then. It will also dry out easier. Be prepared for a hard start at times.
Get it done professionally if youre worried.

 

an untouched, un cleaned engine that runs well is a big plus to me when
shopping for a used car, for what its worth

 

Joe.
I cover the distributor, and plug wires. You should cover any control units
you see under the hood. I use Sample Green and low pressure "my thumb over
the end of the garden hose to produce a mist. I do this once a year. When
you finish star the engine and let run to operating temp with the hood open.
You might here the belts squawk a bit but this is normal.
Hope this helps.
Mike

 

Joe.
I cover the distributor, and plug wires. You should cover any control units
you see under the hood. I use Sample Green and low pressure "my thumb over
the end of the garden hose to produce a mist. I do this once a year. When
you finish star the engine and let run to operating temp with the hood open.
You might here the belts squawk a bit but this is normal.
Hope this helps.
Mike

 

Joe.
I cover the distributor, and plug wires. You should cover any control units
you see under the hood. I use Sample Green and low pressure "my thumb over
the end of the garden hose to produce a mist. I do this once a year. When
you finish star the engine and let run to operating temp with the hood open.
You might here the belts squawk a bit but this is normal.
Hope this helps.
Mike