Code 16 on a '91 Civic

Discussion in 'Civic' started by chuck, Aug 13, 2007.

  1. chuck

    chuck Guest

    This problem has been driving my nuts for awhile. I've changed the
    injectors. What happens is that the check enigine light comes on (the
    code 16) and if the car is idleing for 5 minutes it starts smoking,
    floods out and dies. Sometimes it'll die at a stop sign too. No amount
    of cranking will clear it and allow it to start. If I pull the wires to
    the injectors it'll clear the flooded condition and start right up. I
    hate to replace the ECU and find that the condition is caused by some
    sensor. So, I guess my question is; is there some sensor that can cause
    this problem and what's the test proceedure for the sensor. BTW, it's a
    1.5l DPI engine.

    Thanks for any help.
     
    chuck, Aug 13, 2007
    #1
  2. chuck

    Woody Guest

    Try a google search. Lots of answers and checks. Search "Honda Civic code
    16"
     
    Woody, Aug 13, 2007
    #2
  3. chuck

    Eric Guest

    Code 16 often indicates a failed main relay. The main relay is located
    under the the dash at the far left side by the coin tray and it controls the
    fuel injectors. A relay failure is quite common with a car of this age. A
    common problem with the relay is cracked solder joints and some people have
    success resoldering them. I chose to replace mine with a new one from Honda
    as the contacts inside the relay were pitted like an old set of distributor
    points. Note that a new relay will run you about $40 or so.

    Eric
     
    Eric, Aug 13, 2007
    #3
  4. chuck

    Grahame Guest

    Code 16 often indicates a failed main relay. The main relay is located
    A bad main relay will not set any trouble codes, the main relay
    controls the fuel pump and when it fails the car will not start,
    usualy when it gets hot outside. This is not the problem Chuck
    describes. Sounds more like a fuel pressure problem.
     
    Grahame, Aug 14, 2007
    #4
  5. chuck

    Tegger Guest



    Actually, if just the right solder location cracks, the Main Relay CAN
    set a code 16.
    http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainrelayoperation/badmainrelay.html

    However, this will be accompanied by a no-start, not a flooded
    condition.

    OP has not stated the trim level of his Civic. I suspect it is below an
    Si, in which case it has dual-point throttle body injection.

    I agree with Grahame here; check the fuel pressure. That is a good place
    to start. Certainly a better one than replacing injectors; Keihin
    injector failure is extremely rare.

    Also, the OP has failed to indicate whether the problem occurs on a cold
    start or when hot. This is important. Is the cold-start injector (the
    upper one) still spraying fuel after five minutes of idling? Has the OP
    tried pulling ONLY the connector for the UPPER injector?
     
    Tegger, Aug 14, 2007
    #5
  6. chuck

    jim beam Guest


    i don't think code 16 is your problem* - here's what i think is the clue:

    "I've changed the injectors."

    with the throttle body injection, the injectors are deep set and have 2
    or 3 o-ring seals on them. on reinsertion, if you didn't grease
    properly, i think you snagged one of the o-rings and now you're leaking
    fuel into the t.b. you'll have to re-pull the injectors and check.

    but this begs the question of why you pulled them in the first place -
    is this a california vehicle and do you have a hesitation problem?


    * - code 16 is usually a main relay problem. it happens on hondas this
    age. either re-solder or replace as a matter of course. it won't
    affect your injectors with the symptoms you describe.
     
    jim beam, Aug 14, 2007
    #6
  7. chuck

    jim beam Guest

    in my experience, it does set a #16 on this vehicle. i've had no less
    than 5 [yes five] 88-91 dpfi hondas with this problem. new/resoldered
    relays fix it every time.
     
    jim beam, Aug 14, 2007
    #7
  8. chuck

    chuck Guest

    I checked this. 40psi at the fuel filter with the vacuum hose
    disconnected.
     
    chuck, Aug 14, 2007
    #8
  9. chuck

    dgk Guest

    I have a 91 Accord. Would you suggest replacing the relay on a
    preventive basis? I have no symptoms and want none.
     
    dgk, Aug 14, 2007
    #9
  10. chuck

    chuck Guest

    Yes, it's a DPI.
    The fuel pressure checked ok.
    I beleive this to be the problem. I don't think it's a leaky injector. I
    guess my question should be; What will cause the ECU to power the upper
    injector when it shouldn't be powered? A temperature sensor? Will this
    cause a Code 16? BTW, I did check the wire harness and cleaned the
    ground wire at the thermostat too.
     
    chuck, Aug 14, 2007
    #10
  11. chuck

    Tegger Guest


    Pull the connector from the upper injector. See what happens.

    How old is your thermostat? Have you tested the ECT sensor for correct
    resistance?

    If the ECU is powering the upper injector inappropriately, it may have been
    fooled into thinking the engine is too cold. Is there any overfueling
    problem with the engine stone-cold? Or only when hot?
     
    Tegger, Aug 15, 2007
    #11
  12. chuck

    Tegger Guest



    The O-ring that generally gets torn/folded is the one that goes into the
    fuel rail. This results in fuel leakage into the engine compartment;
    dangerous and smelly.

    The seal that goes between throttle body and injector is an air seal only.
    They are much larger and are harder to damage.
     
    Tegger, Aug 15, 2007
    #12
  13. chuck

    jim beam Guest

    but there is no fuel rail on the dpfi - all the workings are housed
    within the throttle body.
    see above. i'll email you the diagram offline.
     
    jim beam, Aug 15, 2007
    #13
  14. chuck

    Tegger Guest


    I see the diagram, thanks. The DPFI injectors are somewhat different
    from the port-injected ones.
    I also see I had it backwards which injector was the main one. It's the
    UPPER injector that is the main one, not the lower.

    However, it is not obvious how the O-rings shown could cause fuel
    leakage if torn. The ones that are indicated on the diagram appear to be
    air/vibration seals, performing much the same role as the big rubber
    rings that are used in port injected cars.

    Two questions:

    1) Where is the fuel inlet? There should be a third (much smaller) O-
    ring where the top of the injector goes into the fuel connection, should
    there not?

    2) Does the auxiliary injector supply fuel through a pintle on its end,
    or does it instead somehow supply fuel through the drilling that angles
    up from its body?
     
    Tegger, Aug 15, 2007
    #14
  15. chuck

    jim beam Guest

    the fuel circulates in passages in the throttle body and enters the
    injector through ports between seals 1 & 2 [iirc], if you're counting
    from the narrow end. if seal 1 is munged or missing, you're getting
    substantial leakage into the throttle air passage.
    there is a 3rd ring iirc, at the thick end. mainly a dust seal i think.
    can't recall for sure - the injector i have is at the bottom of the
    parts bin.
    through the injector end. technically, that's not the "pintle" - that
    term refers to the trumpet shaped protrusion on the end of the injector
    pin that forms the spray pattern when the pin moves to open. a lot of
    diesel injectors don't have pintles.
     
    jim beam, Aug 16, 2007
    #15
  16. chuck

    Joe LaVigne Guest

    Why not locate the Main Relay, then purchase a spare to keep available
    for if/when it does go? Once you know where it is, replacing it is a
    pretty quick task...


    --
    Joe - Registered Linux User #449481

    "Hate is baggage, life is too short to go around pissed off all the
    time..."
    - Danny, American History X
     
    Joe LaVigne, Aug 17, 2007
    #16
  17. chuck

    Tegger Guest



    I went to the wreckers today to get some trim parts. Wandering around, I
    had a peek at a few Civics with DPFI. It was an education, that's for
    sure.

    On one vehicle, I removed the lower injector to have a look at it
    (couldn't break the screws loose on the upper one due to poor leverage
    and bad hammering angle; I didn't bring enough tools).

    I see now what you mean. The fuel line goes into the throttle body, not
    the injectors. On the injector I pulled, there is a series of narrow
    rectangular screened "windows" arrayed around the injector between the
    two O-rings. These admit fuel through the screens. The outer O-ring is
    quite thick and robust, and, I would think, hard to tear.



    The injector I pulled had a shallow green plastic "trumpet" surrounding
    the nozzle and pin. Would this not be the "pintle"?
     
    Tegger, Aug 29, 2007
    #17
  18. chuck

    chuck Guest

    I hate to bring this up again, but this is my winter beater and I'd hate
    to have it fail in the winter. I've been driving it about 1-1/2 months
    now with no problems, but I haven't done anything to fix it either.

    Maybe I have a clue to the problem. This car is used mainly to transport
    the family snowboarding throughout the winter. It gets lots of moisture
    on/in the carpets from the snow. Usually, the thing starts acting up 2
    months into the season. I wonder if the moisture combined with the ECU
    location could be giving me problems. I did pull the ECU cover and
    didn't see any signs of water. If this scenario is feasible, I wonder if
    I could install some sort of vapor barrier around the ECU that would
    still allow it to ventilate.

    BTW, the moisture problem is extreme. Every fall when I pull this car
    out of the field, I have to scrub the whole interior with bleach to
    remove the mold.

    Thanks for any advice.
     
    chuck, Dec 4, 2007
    #18
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