Consider buying American!

i'll trade higher efficiency for a minuscule chance of interference.
especially if i can be bothered to pay attention to my mileage.

 

Perhaps I don't have a decent FWD, I just have a Prelude
I have mastered RWD driving, competitevly and I have tolerated the
handling of FWD but I am not confused that a good handling RWD will
leave a FWD understeering into the wall on the same course.
If FWD is technically superior either in handling or acelleration
there would be some racers using them and winning.
I'm sure there is a NHRA rice burner class that pits FWDs together but
they are not the fastest cars.

 

Perhaps I am mistaken but I think you are the guy whgo told me I was
too dumb to replace a belt and I should bring it to a dealer, leaving
the impression you worked at one.
If I am mistaken I appologize.

Why do all of that? Just rock the engine from the crank pulley and
look for lost motion on the distributor shaft. DUH!

We already went through this ...
.... and the best price I could get for an aftermarket belt and pump
was over $100 at Advance Auto. The dealer is a lot more.

If you can do this in just over an hour and the part is $35, why does
the dealer charge $800?
BTW I will give you the $800 if I can watch you do this in 90 minutes
(quite a bit over an hour) , if you run over it's free.

 

Good, Thanks I guess I don't need a belt.

 

It is a lot of blind faith to put in a rubber belt. You have convinced
me tho. I am going to keep running it until I get tired of the car.
If the belt breaks I will get tired of it pretty fast ;-)

I do have a lot of experience with cog belts. I worked on equipment
with lots of them for 30 years. I agree they are pretty trouble free
but when they fail it is usually a sudden and complete failure. I have
replaced hundreds if not thousands. Some were very old, some fairly
new.
I did get far enough into my car to see it was a "honda" belt, could
be 11 years old and 85000 miles, may be 4 years old and 20000 mi if it
was replaced along the way. If I am to believe the inspection criteria
it is OK.

 

As I mentioned, in a competitive environment, RWD has definite
advantages. For the average driver on the road, FWD is a much better
choice.

 

Those rates make me feel really good... too bad my Toyota belt failed
40K miles too early and left me stranded. Fortunately that was a
non-interference engine.

At least a chain just gets noisy until you give in and fix it. I've
never heard of a chain breaking.

 

20 amps is one heck of a load on a simple rotary or light duty level
switch.

And I didn't make the original post, but I've never seen an American
car without a relay for the headlights (Not that I like them at all
.

 

And noise. A belt is quieter.

Me, I like chains. I even like the noise.

 

Please, keep your personal life out of this. ;-)

 

??? all this info is free online. why wouldn't you check before
launching a criticism?

 

eh? understeer means you turn the wheel more relative to the centerline
than over-steer, but it doesn't mean the car doesn't corner. and the
degree of understeer depends on the way the car's set up. you seem to
be confused.

eh? what about all the civics, integras, preludes, rabbits, etc. that
get raced every weekend all over the country? what about the fwd
winners i see down at the track?

what class? a civic's not going to beat a race-prep 911, but that's not
like with like.


no comment i note.

 

on a domestic v8 without tensioners. and unworn gears. if it does have
tensioners, and/or worn gears, that doesn't work.

not with me you didn't.

which dealer? where?

why would you want to lose money like this against a guy you don't know
on a newsgroup???? are you as generous with other strangers you meet on
the street?

bottom line dude, you're not thinking. get your fact straight.

 

how odd. methinks you put a lot of faith in the rubber seals in your
braking system - why the disparate religions?

and when chains fail? do they phone your old lady and say you'll be
late for dinner, just to be nice about it?

engineering is not a matter of faith. read the manufacturer specs and
maintain accordingly.

 

There are four popular types of coolant now:
1. High silicate green (older cars)
2. Low silicate, low phosphate, carbo-oxy (e.g. G-05/G-48 Euro cars,
Ford, maybe Chrysler)
3. Carbo-oxy (e.g. "long life" Dexcool, American cars)
4. No silicate Japanese (e.g. Jap cars Nissan, Toyota, etc.

Very briefly, high silicates were innovated by Prestone to prevent
corrosion. They are also abrasive and not recommended in cars that
want no or low silicate. Japanese cars go through a lot of water pumps
with high silicate. Dexcool was innovated by GM via Texaco. It lasts
five years. But, Dexcool has serious contamination issues. Notably,
the sealer GM puts in every new car, solder joints, and even air are
contaminants. Given the chance, Dexcool will wreck a "contaminated"
cooling system. G-48 type coolants don't have the Dexcool issues and
have the same excellent characteristics, but have a two year life.
Japanese cars use a no-silicate formula, for the reasons mentioned
above.

I haven't followed Prestone for a few years, but be very, very careful
to check them out at the chemical level. For a long time they were
saying it was OK to use the Green in all cars - which it was not.
Recently they were saying it was OK to use their variation of Dexcool
in any care - which it was not. I would not believe what they say. Go
to someone like Valvoline who puts detailed specs on-line, read,
learn.

 

Idiot.

 

Idiot.

 

It's unions and management. Management doesn't have a clue how to do
marketing (not sales, marketing). The Unions won't budge and
belligerently stick to concepts that cause companies to lose money
(i.e. "you can't move that wastebasket across your office, that's a
union job").

 

Nope. Both clearly wrong, stupid.

That does not make what you wrote before correct, dummy.

 

Alfa Romeo, Fiat.

All the Lucas systems I worked on had repeated and frequent problems.
I haven't had that issue with American, Japanese, or other Euro cars
(and I like British cars, just not their electrical systems).

See above.