Consider buying American!

As I said, donks. ;-) The low compression used for most turbos means their
efficiency is poor.

Apart from BMW, obviously. ;-)

 

I have had lots of cars and the only chain I ever had to replace was
on a Jeep with the AMC 304. It didn't break but it did stretch.
It was certainly a lot easier job than putting a belt in a Prelude and
I didn't have air tools at that time..

 

Perhaps not technically correct usage of the term. Again I appologize.
Let's just call it over reliance on 2 wheels to control and propel a 4
wheel vehicle.
Certainly if you never get out on the edge, you will think FWD is
great but once you lose it your car is ballistic (in the Newton sense)
I don't drive that aggressively these days and it doesn't snow here
but I am not thrilled at the amount of torque steerr I get in my
straight line acceleration either. The other FWDs I had were fairly
tame vehicles but this Prelude will hop the left front tire. If you
were acellerating out of a turn like you would on a RWD you might not
actually get out of the turn. Drifting is out of the question, you
have no control of the rear end

 

Hydraulic problemns are usually "rubber problems", either failed cups
in the cylinders or hoses. I have seen rusted out steel lines (I am in
Florida) but that is the exception.

 

four drivers

 

1. it's more like 1.5 times.
2. "service life of the engine" is the whole point of going back to
chains - "uneconomic to repair" means new car. belts keep an engine
going as long as it'll run. chains, especially long run chains on
overhead cams, turn the engine into an inefficient, polluting p.o.s.

ridiculous.

 

Never had to but I would probably pull a valve cover. It is really the
cam shaft motion that you are looking for

 

How many have timing belts

 

I have a standing $800 bet with him it doesn't apply to a 97 Prelude.

 

Two of them (trucks)

 

We are talking about Hondas. I had a Sunbird that ate belts (that
wonderful Detroit quality control in the 80s) and never harmed a
thing, my Chrysler ran for 139000 miles on the original belt but I
didn't worry because it was non-interferance too. This whole issue is
about "foreign vs American"

 

A chain is not any harder to replace than the belt on a Honda that
doesn't have a removable wheel well like my Prelude. At least you can
get a straight shot at the front of the motor when you pull the
radiator

 

which is all you have with rwd unless you're drifting! you want to do
that on the off-ramp in my neighborhood? watch that blue light in your
mirror and see what happens.

i am familiar with newtonian mechanics thanks. unless you're drifting,
there is no disadvantage with fwd. and having the weight over the
driving wheels delays drift onset, and that /is/ an advantage.

eh? didn't you say you had a prelude? doesn't it have equal length
driveshafts??? if so, you don't have real torque steer, merely traction
differential - as you would expect. if you had a sensor connected to
rwd, you'd feel the same there too.

so what? my crx will do that on the inside tire on any hard gas-down
corner, left or right. if it was rwd, that tire would just spin unless
it was fitted with a lsd. in the wet, you'd be drifting.

no, it's the front end. sliding tires offer little friction - therefore
sliding front tires mean you can't corner(*). but for "normal" road
use, the fact that fwd delays the onset of any slide means this is not
an issue.

* have you ever seen fwd's being rallied? not much friction there. if
you have, you'll realize that fwd is actually great in the hands of
someone that knows how to drive it. not as good as 4wd though, hence
domination of vehicles like subaru in that arena.

 

for calipers, that's usually rust, not rubber. rubber can wear, [master
cylinders] but you'd expect that.

again, dual circuit is in case of hydraulic fluid loss, like if road
debris cuts a hose.

i've got 19 year old hoses on my honda. no problems.

 

so then you're bullshitting!

 

a lot of the euro diesels. or they did last time i was there.

 

eh? what's hard about a belt change on the prelude? a/c compressor
lifts out of the way, power steering lifts out of the way, wheel well
cowling unclips, engine mount unbolts...

admittedly, a chain on some vehicles is not that bad, but you have to
[should] replace the cogs as well as the chain, and on some vehicles
like nissan, it's a major strip-down.

for people that just drive a car for 100k miles, and don't care about
slow degradation, chains are for you. if you want high mileage and
precision, belts are the only way to go.

 

you never said "prelude" wisenheimer. you didn't specify /any/ vehicle.

"I will give you the $800 if I can watch you do this in 90 minutes
(quite a bit over an hour) , if you run over it's free."

swing by my place and i'll change the belt on my crx in under an hour.
i'll take the money in hundreds please.

 

We are talking about Hondas.[/QUOTE]

No, we were talking about timing belts--in a variety of newsgroups.

Someone with an anti-timing belt bias chooses to talk to himself about
Hondas, but not share that with the rest of the world. To the rest of
the world, he simply remains generic about the car in question--and
leaves it hanging that "when the TB breaks, your engine is toast".

Sorry, Charlie.

 

If there isn't a big truck behind you, in which case you become a pancake.[/QUOTE]

Really? Do you spend your life on the road outrunning those fearful
trucks that are out to get you? Who are you, Dennis Weaver?

If you're coasting, that truck will merely nudge you along. In the
meantime, you still have steering and brakes--so you steer to the right,
out of the way of the truck.

And since the truck driver is plainly absent--dead, asleep, whatever--as
shown by the fact that he didn't slow down, then he won't follow you
over to the side of the road.

If you live in a world where trucks chase after you and follow you no
matter where you go, you need more tinfoil hats.