CR-V door lock won't accept key

Hey all --

I have a 2003 CR-V that I really enjoy, but one problem is now truly
annoying.
The driver's side door lock won't allow the key to be inserted the
whole way on
the first try. It usually takes 5-10 attempts.

What's the best solution? Is it just a matter of shooting some
lubricant into
the keyhole? (Which one? WD-40? Graphite?)

Thanks in advance,
-- Dan C.

 

You can start with some "Lock-Ease." It's a graphite solution designed
especially for lubricating lock tumblers. Follow the directions on the
bottle. It's available at some auto parts stores as well as hardware stores
and maybe Wal-Mart. About $3 a bottle.

On my 1991 Civic, it helped/fixed both my driver's side door and the
ignition key opening recently, both of which had been giving me some
problems (though not as bad as yours.

 

Be careful with your key after removing it from the lock if you use any
type of graphite - there will be graphite be on the key, which will
stain anything it contacts, e.g., your clothing, upholstery.

 

------------------------------

Like Elle said it . . Lock-ease comes in an aerosol which cleans and
lubes the locks. I've been trying to find some in Canada since mine
finally ran empty. (small blue spray can) There's other brands out
there, but they seem to be full of Acetone or something really volatile.
Be careful of your eyes and paint if you use these.

'Curly'

 

Hmm.. I thought about that too, but my biggest concern with graphite
was its ability to conduct electricity, and the chance of shorting
anything by mistake. Sounds like this isn't much of problem though.

 

Hmm.. I thought about that too, but my biggest concern with graphite
was its ability to conduct electricity, and the chance of shorting
anything by mistake. Sounds like this isn't a problem though.

 

Huh. My bottle of Lock-ease is maybe ten years old, but it's not aerosol.

Ricky, good tip. The bottle does caution to wipe down the key and excess
after use, but does not explain that it's a big deal to get it on other
things.

I got this tip from you, BTW. Hadn't thought it was a good idea to use it in
the ignition until you posted to someone else, 'sure.'

 

how about using WD40?

 

I've never considered WD-40 a lubricant per se. You don't just want to
"break free" the frozen (or somewhat frozen surfaces) inside the lock. You
want them to continue to slide across each other. So I think for
metal-to-metal sliding surfaces where the friction isn't that great (that
is, the parts aren't consistently moving), the graphite-based Lock-Ease
makes more sense.

Lock-Ease is available for purchase on the web. In case you can't find it
locally, the bottle I have looks like that at
http://www.autobarn.net/chle-4.html .

I think I originally bought my bottle actually more like 22 years ago. It
was for the exterior locks on my first vehicle, which was used--maybe five
years old--and also for the first time being driven in way Northern U.S.
It's doorlocks were sticking. Lock-Ease worked perfectly then.

Apply it to your house locks, too...

 

WD40 has fixed more than one lock for me, including the driver's door
lock on my Accord earlier this evening. It's low viscosity is its main
virtue, and explains its use as a penetrating oil.

It's not long-lasting though.

Best of all, it doesn't conduct electricity

 

------------------------------

Don't lose any sleep about putting graphite in the ignition lock, or the
door locks, for that matter.The ignition switch is beside (behind) the
lock, and the graphite spray won't 'migrate' to where the power is. The
door lock is several inches away from the actuator, where there's a set
of contacts and a small electric motor, and it's all sealed inside a
plastic compartment. No worry.

WD-40 will work well in a pinch, but like you said . . No lasting value,
and not a great lubricant. It cleans grease off fingers and price
tickets of junk from the Dollar store.

'Curly'

 

------------------------------

Don't lose any sleep about putting graphite in the ignition lock, or the
door locks, for that matter.The ignition switch is beside (behind) the
lock, and the graphite spray won't 'migrate' to where the power is. The
door lock is several inches away from the actuator, where there's a set
of contacts and a small electric motor, and it's all sealed inside a
plastic compartment. No worry.

WD-40 will work well in a pinch, but like you said . . No lasting value,
and not a great lubricant. It cleans grease off fingers and price
tickets of junk from the Dollar store.

'Curly'

 

------------------------------

Don't lose any sleep about putting graphite in the ignition lock, or the
door locks, for that matter.The ignition switch is beside (behind) the
lock, and the graphite spray won't 'migrate' to where the power is. The
door lock is several inches away from the actuator, where there's a set
of contacts and a small electric motor, and it's all sealed inside a
plastic compartment. No worry.

WD-40 will work well in a pinch, but like you said . . No lasting value,
and not a great lubricant. It cleans grease off fingers and price
tickets of junk from the Dollar store.

'Curly'

 

Fix your newsreader, Curly. You're posting in triplicate!

 

It's probably the news server, not his newsreader.

 

--------------------------

Yeah, I saw that later . . I even went back and canceled a couple of
them. Creepy !

Cue the Blue Danube Waltz:

HAL is going to try to kill us if we don't watch out. "Dave? What are
you doing, Dave?"

'Curly'