crack in upper radiator tank

My 1990 Honda Accord has developed a crack in the upper radiator tank
below the fill cap. I'm assuming ( maybe in error) that this is a non
repairable issue and I will have to replace the radiator. Is this
correct?

If so the replacement procedure is to drain, remove both hoses, remove
both fans, and lift it out, put in a new one reassemble fans and
hoses then fill and bleed. Is this correct?

Thanks,

Frank

 

Almost 100% of the time, yes. There are expoxy fixes available, but when
you can get quality aftermarket rads for less than $200, it's not worth the
risk.

Might find it easier to leave lower hose and rad fan attached to the rad
until you withdraw the rad. Attach lower hose and fan to new rad before
insertion.

A/C fan can be pushed out of the way. Do not disconnect A/C lines.

 

Thanks,

Age dictates replacement. Don't think I would feel comfortable that a
patch would stand the thermal cycling and pressure.

I'll try that disassembly method. The more I can do outside the
engine compartment the better. These old knarly hands don't always
seem to fit in places they used to.

Frank

 

Make sure you have something to plug up the transmission lines as the
fluid will start to leak out. When I replaced them i plugged them up
using a two sharpie markers. Also (I think it's on all Accords from
90-97) you need to keep the A/C fan mounted on the radiator in order
to get both of them out of there. I was playing around with trying to
get the fan out (before pulling the radiator out) for about 1/2hr
before I figured this out.


Nick

 

Thanks,

Manual T so no cooler lines to the rad.


Also (I think it's on all Accords from

Both fans can stay on the rad when it comes out?

 

When the mechanic pulled my 97 accord radiator, he left the fans on.
Also watch the electrical connections - he buggered up the connector
that turns on the AC clutch. Some of the hoses were a bear to get off.
He had to replace it 3 times - the first 2 radiators from Bumper to
Bumper leaked like sives. Hecho in Mexico.

Found an aftermarket radiator made in Thailand for another accord I
owned - worked well the first time - those Thias have their stuff
together.

 

Also if you need a place to get it from check out
http://www.performanceradiator.com/

I've order 2 from them and they came within a day of ordering them
online. They also have a 3 year warranty on them.

So far after a year and a half no issues!

Nick

 

Kinda pricey at $368 for an 97 accord radiator.

 

If the crack doesn't go all the way to where the tank and radiator core
meet, the repair is simple (drain the radiator first) and is best made
by melting a fairly deep groove along the crack with a soldering iron
(clean the tip or cover it with aluminum foil) and then filling it with
fiberglass reinforced nylon rod bought from a radiator supply or GM
dealer. Welding nylon this way gives very strong repairs, and I once
fixed a VW radiator tank that cracked at the hose fitting by melting in
nylon shaved from the tank's reinforcement ribs.

Don't try glue because it doesn't stick well to nylon. Also a crack
that goes all the way to the radiator core may require removing the
tank by prying up the 100+ tabs (careful or some will break) and
getting a new gasket.

 

replace. a new nissins radiator is very high quality and not very
expensive.

http://www.alleurasianautoparts.com/

 

That's for the all aluminum. The other one is about $130 which is the
only option that I had available for the 95 Accord at the time.

Nick

 

How'd he deal with the A/C connections?

 

There are none. I can't quite figure the design out . You can pull
both fans simply by disconnecting the electrical connector to the
fans. I did that about six months ago when I replaced the fans (or
fan motor in the case of the radiator fan) on my '97. The A/C fan was
the easiest to pull because the radiator fan has a high pressure
coolant line and bracket that goes over it and it has to be pushed
(with some difficulty) out of the way.

I guess the extra fan is just to take care of the cooling asociated
with the extra load on the engine from the compressor. It does not
act as any kind of condensor cooler for the high pressure lines. the
only ports in and out are for the A/T fluid lines and I have M/T's on
both of my Hondas so they are not used.

At any rate, I'm going to replace the radiator on the '90 this week
end. Will post a follow up. Will try to take both fans, radiator,
and lower hose in one fell swoop. If that doesn't work I'll let you
know what did work.

Thanks to all for the advice.

Frank

 

You know what?

All this time I was confusing the FAN with the CONDENSER. I thereby led you
astray.

As I MEANT to say earlier, the FANS must stay attached to the rad, but the
CONDENSER must be pushed out of the way.

What caused me to scramble the two up so well I don't know. Many apologies
for that.

 

No apology necessary. Have gotten more than my share of help from the
site you maintain.

Frank