new to honda thanks for help SW
Whoa. Tegger's site has gone commercial. Either that or someone's copyrights are being ethically violated.
Someone once told me thre was only 1 or 2 reverse threads on hondas. one of which is somewhere in the steering pump i think. but i have no idea. Crank should be standard thread. It's just a SOB to lock the pulley down and get enough leverage to break it.
you probably have to get some heat to go some part store and use MPS gas they come in small bottles like for propane they use for the pumping but it is a yellow colour can or just use oxy and acle if you gots .. remeber heat it up then let it cool down on its own for like 15 mins then try it
don't do that! you'll ruin seals, the belt [if you're not replacing it] and possibly even the temper of the steel. not good. the bolt comes off with the right tools, namely air tools, or if using hand tools, the correct pulley wheel holder and a 3/4" socket set. [ordinary 1/2" sets flex too much.]
normal r/h thread, but these things self-tighten, so they get real hard to get off. go to tegger.com and check out the pulley wheel holder tools - they make all the difference. also consider using a 3/4" socket set rather than normal 1/2" - the bolt is real tight and the wind-up in the 1/2" set gets a bit scary and hard to control. or use air tools - /much/ easier!
The long Craftsman 1/2" flex handle will do it. Agreed on the seals. Don't heat anything up unless you want to wreck stuff. Earle
Right, bigger is often better but also not essential nor economical. A 1/2-inch drive set worked fine for my 91 Civic. The 3/4-inch drive set of tools will set a person back around $75 or more. (Two 8-inch long, 3/4-inch drive extensions by themselves will run over $50.) Plus, the only place that has a good stock of 3/4-inch drive tools is Sears. Harbor Freight, Pep Boys, Home Depot and the like do not carry much, if any, of this size drive. Of course, if one jumps up and down on the end of the breaker bar or its extension, as a certain person here is reported to have done, then all bets are off as to the safety of the tools, the crankshaft pulley, and the person. Use a long extension to get the torque with as little force as possible applied to the end. Lastly, arranging with one's favorite local mechanic to break the bolt free with an industrial strength impact wrench for the measly sum of say $15 is often the preferred quick fix here.
in terms of sheer force, sure. but it's much safer to go the 3/4" route. there's almost /no/ wind-up, so when the bolt lets go, it just unscrews rather than suddenly dissipating all that stored elastic energy from the tool in potentially destructive ways such as slipping, cracking, etc. sure, the tools cost a little more than just struggling with your existing tool set, but: 1. they're guaranteed to work. yes, a sears breaker bar is guaranteed in replacement in the event that it fails, but that's just the issue, it's not 100% certain to shift the bolt and it might fail. the 3/4" absolutely won't. trust me on that one. 2. the 3/4" stuff is still a good deal cheaper than buying air tools or even an electric impact wrench [that may hot have sufficient torque]. 3. once you have it, you'll be surprised how often you go back to it!
napa, of which there are a large number here in ca, carry a full line of 3/4" tools. and they usually have much more stock than my local sears. i've lightened up my view on using an axle stand as a fulcrum. i still think that when doing this job with the 1/2" tools, it's /way/ too dangerous because there's *huge* elastic distortion before the bolt gives. but with the 3/4" tool however, the wind-up is essentially zero and the bolt just unscrews. in that situation, the use of a fulcrum, while not ideal, is quite benign. kinda, but i swear, with less than 30 miles between swapping out a water pump [pulley bolt], and determining the engine was good enough to do the rest of the job properly [pulley bolt] on my crx, that sucker was full tight and easily over 300 ft.lbs again. if you have someone break the bolt for you, drive /slow/ and keep it close to home.
Elle wrote: Snap-On, of course, has them; http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/catalog1.asp?tool=all&Cat_ID=115805&Cat_NAME=3%2F4%22+Drive&store=snapon-store but you're right, they're expensive as hell
Jim: How big of an impact wrench would one need - can you give an idea in foot pounds of torque - or would most 1/2" and any 3/4" impact do the job?
well, i agree with estimates of release torque at about 300ft.lbs, so most 1/2" air impact wrenches should shift that. assuming there's sufficient air of course - a small compressor won't allow the impact to make rated torque.
About a fifth of the windup, to be exact. So where the 1/2-inch drive will give around 45 degrees of windup (give or take, and at the torques we're talking about), the 3/4-inch will give about 9 degrees. But that's nothing. Buy a 1-inch drive set, and you get about 1/16th the windup, or only about 3 degrees. The 1-inch drive setup is extraordinarily safe. It may cost you $200 all told, but you'll be safe. It's much safer not to do any of one's own work on a car as well. Your suggestion is overkill. Just like your overhyping of that $100+ Honda ball joint separator when a $20 tool (or arguably a large hammer, for the more experienced) will work fine. Just like your hysteria over people who use hood pins, because a cyclist might end up on the hood. Unless you've been misusing tools and jumping up and down again on the end of one of those 1/2-inch breaker bars, the reports of their breaking for this application have to be far and few between, if any. I have never seen any. Maybe because you indulge your habit of breaking pulley bolts free at local junkyards, you prefer the 3/4-inch drive set.
---snippy--- You mentioned hood pins. http://earlehorton.tripod.com/Hoodpins/Hoodpins_00.jpg http://earlehorton.tripod.com/Hoodpins/Hoodpins.jpg Earle
I don't know why so many people say men are less artistic than women. I think they just need the right "canvas." Jackson Pollock, look out.