CRX Sputter and Stumble then smooths out...

1988 CRX DX. No mods. Car randomly has fits of stumbling/rough idle.
When this happens at idle it also happens in any gear...but only in
the early part of acceleration in any gear. Push through the stumble
and sputter range (more fuel, greater load?) and it smooths out and
becomes normal. For example: accelerating from 55mph and shift to 5th
and hit the gas and it'll jerk you silly. I either have to limp it
through this or downshift to keep going. One more thing: This effect
can will often cause a stall when taking off in first. Hard as heck to
restart after this..sometimes accompanied by belch or fart like an
incomplete burn. Any ideas or a quick checklist? Thanks, fellers.

Kevin

 

Throttle-body injection or port injection?

 

And do you have EGR?

 

I had a similar problem with one of my earlier Hondas with a brand new
rebuilt carb and it ended up being a damaged power valve. Luckily, I
stole one out of one of my kits.

JT

 

DX probably has a carb. I had an '89 for a short time and that's what
that one had...

JT

 

Thinking more about this, maybe it was a throttle body. Car never ran
for me as it had a cracked head and I sent it on its merry way...

JT

 

88? Could it be a vacuum advance issue, or was that all gone by then? Or
maybe fuel delivery.

mg

 

throttle body. looks like a carb tho.

 

no, the 88 is throttle body injection.

 

check the ignition system. use plugs that have a solid cap on them, not
screw cap. make sure the plug leads are good. use ngk plugs.

also, check the engine computer for codes - a failing throttle position
sensor trips a code and has similar symptoms to what you're describing.
but my money's on ignition problems.

 

OP's answers to your questions and some more tidbits that may help (or
not).

TIDBITS: (problem existed prior to being parked at length) 1) Car has
been parked for many months, say 10, and has had battery deplete or
disconnected intermittently over that time. Has only been run 4 or 5
cold start cycles since. 2) Problem never arises immediately on cold-
start. 3) Car is fuel injected.

ANSWERS:
1 - Throttle Body or Port INJ? Port. One fuel line from filter to
very near the base of the throttle body.

2 - Do I have EGR? Never thought about it. Appears NO. Assuming it
would be similar to my 98 Accord V6 (and 88 Buick) in design...then
definitely no.

3 - Did I check for TP Sensor code? No flash codes yet...note TIDBITS/
drive cycles above. HOWEVER (and thank you!) I remember DEFINITELY,
YES I was getting that TP code. Check engine light would come on and
then reset with key-off every time. Code persisted. Then at some
random time later Check Engine would reappear, and said random cycle
would continue. I NOW remember noting that the TPSensor is
"permanently" affixed with a type of rivet or similar and Honda says
you have to buy the whole ass'y...can't buy just the TPSensor. Anyone
ever worked around this? Drilled 'em out, etc, and replaced with yard
part? Thanks again! Responses more than I expected. Kevin.

 

you should have said that. persistent codes are real faults.

when trying to do online problem diagnostics like this, please always
always always say if there are any codes. it prevents a whole bunch of
wasted electrons.

as for the sensor, it's easy enough to swap out. google this group [or
rec.autos.makers.honda]. i've written about how to replace and
calibrate a couple of times.

regarding replacement sensors, the one used on the 2-point injection
throttle body is different from those used on the 4-point ones - both
look the same, but one is left-handed and the other right-handed if you
will. you can buy one sensor [per my posts] but i'm not sure you can
easily get the one you need for the dx from anywhere but a junk yard.
get one from an automatic [approx 5x fewer operations].

post back if you have more questions about how to replace once you've
googled, and have a handle on the tools and procedure.

 

you are saying this is a fule injected

There is a hole inside your throttle body port about an inch in
It should suck air into it at idle
and then stop sucking when you give it more gas

There is a spring in there that you may be able to fix

I forget what it is but it will give you an erradic throttle
Cant say this is your answer but its one of the things it could be

Try to find a manual
good luck

 

OP here. Sorry about the electrons, Beamer. Sincerely. I know too
much time is wasted in these forums too often. I've been the guilty
AND the offended 8^) Actually, you REMINDED me of the TP issue.
Like I said, the car has been down for near on 11 months...and it
hadn't thrown a code yet. I looked. So, anyway, I'm going to replace
the little bugger. Piece of cake, actually. Found all the
particulars for R/I and voltage, just never found YOUR posts. Link me
if you have time, but either way I should be A-OK. Thx for help.
Will report back. Thanks Ya'll!!

Kevin

 

While I wait on my part: Couple questions, please.

1) Got the TP sensor out (hacksaw blade...piece of cake, actually,
just remove obstructions in advance). Popped it off clean from the TB
and there was clearly fuel remaining behind in the TB where I removed
the TPS. No gush, pour, or spurt, just some funky/dirty fuel lying at
the bottom of the aluminum curvature after removal. Normal???

Stay with me here, please.

2) Similarly, I proceded to do a complete AUTOPSY on the TP Sensor
itself, drilling through the outer casing with an Xacto and expanding
the hole and then breaking the "top" wide open to the point of being
exposed so I could see the contact points and circuit board and the
whole guts. Clearly, gas had been everywhere whether by liquid or by
vapor, I dunno. Not "wet" or drippy or sloppy, but guts of the sensor
reeked of fuel too. Normal???

Just wanted your input before I go slapping things together
pematurely. Yes, I own the HELMS manual and will break it out to look
for seals and gaskets on th TB tomorrow. Thanks.