Curious...

It's not really a calibration unless it were traceable back to a
calibrated NIST/ISO standard, which the gas pumps should be.

 

If what you wanted to know was the distance change from that spot and
not the entire span, that would be the way to do it.

But he mentions that this was for measuring consumption only, not for
deciding to add more. As long as he uses the same point of reference
(like a specific spot on the bridge), he can accurately achieve his
goal.

 

right, but you have to define the spots. saying you're measuring the
bridge when you're really measuring from one side of the bridge to the
next town is not right.

not unless he knows what the oil temperature is when he measures it -
"cold" in his part of the world can be subject to a 50°C temperature
delta - "hot" is maybe 10°C delta. and he has /no/ idea what his filter
valve function is like. if he records how much he uses to refill hot,
like the dipstick is calibrated for, then he'd be both consistent and
eliminate the above variables.

 

that's a certified calibration. a calibration doesn't need to be certified.

 

eh? how? i don't call "cold" careful consideration when it's subject
to a 50°C delta.

no, because some filters leak, some don't. a leaking valve gives an
artificially high fill reading. if a filter does leak, the rate varies.
and some filters can start leaking where they didn't before. so, how
do you eliminate this variable? by taking a reading a short time after
shut-down. that way, the filter leaking to empty in only 1 hour gives
the [within usable accuracy limits] same reading as the filter that's
taking a day.

 

it's damped - the spring has a polymer sleeve that stops that.

 

look again elle - one bolt has thread lock, the other doesn't. neither
shows thread binding. the one with only the woodruff key shows a whole
lot of rotational galling. if that kind of plain visual evidence
doesn't "persuade", then not much will.

that's why i said "they're not cheap". but i went on to talk about
value. i actually didn't buy mine for the pulley bolt, i bought it for
a stubborn oxygen sensor removal that was looking like it could ruin a
manifold. for that, it worked where nothing else would. and i've since
found it to be exemplary for all kinds of rusted and stubborn fasteners
where threads usually strip or bolts just shear. it has paid for itself
many times in non-ruined parts alone. factoring in time and sweat, you
can't beat it - it's a great investment.

 

You just revealed that you did not read Tegger's comments on what time
of year he took measurements.

We disagree on how filter drainback averages out.

 

but i did. and that still doesn't address the fact that "the tegger
method" will mislead anyone trying to emulate it - just like it's
misleading him.

bottom line - it's his car - he can do what he wants with it. but do
NOT encourage others in the mistaken myth that oil readings should be
taken "cold" - they shouldn't.

then you don' t understand how reading taken two minutes into a
60-minute flow is not materially different from two minutes into a 600
minute flow. or how a non-leaking filter gives a different reading to a
leaking one that's been given sufficient time to empty.

 

Never thought of an uncertified calibration as an actual calibration,
just a point of reference.

 

His spot was defined, which was ambient temperature and on level
ground (I believe that what was said, can't recall he exact wording).

The point of the dipstick being "calibrated" is arguable, at best.

 

technically, you're absolutely right, but in lay usage, something like this

http://www.globescientific.com/images/601541-Series.jpg

is commonly called "calibrated", even though the more accurate term is
merely "graduated".

 

but ambient is widely variable. taken to extreme, that could be -20°C
or it could be +50°C. operating temperature for the oil in the pan otoh
is a very narrow range. and that is the whole point.

well, it's marked for use under specific conditions. if those
conditions are not met, the marking "calibration" doesn't work because
of temperature, valve leakage, etc.

in an earlier thread [this has been rumbling on for a while], i
mentioned the situation with something like the chrysler torque-flite
transmission. it's "calibrated" to be read at operating temperature,
with the motor [and thus the transmission oil pump] running. if the
motor is off, and the oil is cold, the read oil level will be about 3"
above that of where it's supposed to read. there is no possible
argument that there is no point following factory procedure in that
case. and although the result differences are not as dramatic for honda
engine oil reading, the same principle applies here - because time and
temperature after shut-down affect the oil level, the oil reading should
be taken as per the factory specification, not per some vague
supposition or underinformed notion.

 

I can agree with that description.

 

(M.A. Stewart) wrote in

Since I help the tensioner with my hand, I don't rely much on the spring.
However, the spring is only about $10, so replacing it certainly isn't a
bad idea.

 

(M.A. Stewart) wrote in

There's a plastic sleeve covering the coils.

 

Always checked at ambient temperature, and always checked with the car
sitting in the exact same spot, facing the exact same way.

The /calibration/ of the dipstick isn't important. What IS important is
that I use the same dipstick, inserted the same way, each time.

 

are you using a belt tensiometer to measure instead? if not, then you
don't know more about the application than the manufacturer does. to
simply guess and tension above the spec set by the carefully selected
procedure and equipment provided to you by the manufacturer is
potentially very harmful and you shouldn't be recommending it to others..

do you replace the mounting bolt as well? replacing a non-wearing part
is utterly illogical.

 

which is always wrong

facing the same way? is oil geomagnetic? or is the vehicle not on
level ground?

it's much more important to read the owners manual.

 

absolutely. right now though, it's not even on the radar screen, let
alone being addressed.

i don't know for sure, but i suspect it's fairly common with some
brands. i used to use honda branded filters for example, but discovered
by mistake that their drain-back valves appear to be pretty much
useless. or at least, at the time that i was using them. if you warmed
up the engine prior to oil change, then left the car to sit for an hour,
the subsequent filter change involved no spillage. zero. the filter
would be absolutely empty. every filter, every time. this is great if
you don't want the honda problem of oil spillage over the exhaust and is
arguably a "useful" feature (!), but it's not good for internal engine
health. currently i'm using cheapo walmart brand made by champion labs,
and despite their price, they've turned out to be much better, though i
did have one that seemed to leak.

there are a number of other write-ups about this on the web. e.g.

i agree. but then we run into the fact that he changes the oil, mobil 1
no less, at only 3k miles....

yup, always ambient.