CV boot replacement

I got new tires today for my 94 Accord at Hesselbein Tires, and they
found that the outer CV boot on the right side is torn. I confirmed
that when I got home. The left looks ok. The car has 53K miles on
it.

They want about $100 to fix it, and would use an aftermarket boot.

I've tried turning sharply in both directions, listening for strange
noises, and don't hear or feel anything strange. So I'm gonna
assume the axle is ok and just get the one boot replaced.

I assume the vast majority of the $100 is labor, and just wondered
if boot replacement is something that a normal human being could
easily do, or if it really should be a mechanic who knows what he's
doing. I'm pretty handy, but have never tackled anything like this.
If I get them to do it, I would also get them to do the front
brakes at the same time since they are the original brakes and the
pads are down to alomst nothing. I would insist on Honda pads.

Does the after-market boot sound ok? Does the $100 sound
reasonable?

I got Toyo Spectrums, by the way, total cost of $281 including road
hazard. So far, they ride nice, but may be a little firmer than the
OE Michelins. I thought I had an option to get BFG Traction T/A's
at near the same price, but that turned out not to be the case. So
I went with the Toyo's.

 

If it's torn, the conventional and emphatic counsel is dirt
got into the joint, and it's going to fail soon.

Depending on how experienced you are, I'd buy a half-shaft
(which holds the inner and outer boots and joints for one
side) for $70 at Autozone (lifetime warranty) and do it
myself.

Replacing /just/ the boot takes more labor than slapping a
whole new halfshaft in.

You can also buy a rebuilt OEM halfshaft online for around
$135. See www.hondaautomotiveparts.com , for one.

 

If it's torn, the conventional and emphatic counsel is dirt
got into the joint, and it's going to fail soon.

Depending on how experienced you are, I'd buy a half-shaft
(which holds the inner and outer boots and joints for one
side) for $70 at Autozone (lifetime warranty) and do it
myself.

Replacing /just/ the boot takes more labor than slapping a
whole new halfshaft in.

You can also buy a rebuilt OEM halfshaft online for around
$135. See www.hondaautomotiveparts.com , for one.

 

If the joints are OEM it is definitely worth just replacing the boot -- IF
the joint is still OK. You need to have an *experienced* mechanic listen
for clicking from the joint.

And even if the joint passes the listen-test, it will still need to be
inspected thoroughly once disassembled and cleaned to make sure the balls
and races are not chipped or dented in any way.

If the joint is OEM and passes both inspections, replace BOTH boots with
NEW OEM, NOT aftermarket! New OEM is more expensive, but the new OEM boots
last well over ten years, and your OEM joints will outlast them. And if one
side is torn now, it's a sure bet the other won't be far behind.

If your current joints are aftermarket, then just rpleace the whole shaft,
like Elle says. It's going to be a lot less trouble. Just remember to let a
bit of air into the inner joint boot after shaft installation, so the
rubber doesn't stay puckered. Puckered boots will break within a thousand
miles.

People, I'll say it again: Inspect your CV joint boots! Catch them early
and you can save that very expesive, high-quality joint! Honda OEM joints
will last the life of the car if the boots are never allowed to split. New
OEM boots last well over ten years.

 

If the joints are OEM it is definitely worth just replacing the boot -- IF
the joint is still OK. You need to have an *experienced* mechanic listen
for clicking from the joint.

And even if the joint passes the listen-test, it will still need to be
inspected thoroughly once disassembled and cleaned to make sure the balls
and races are not chipped or dented in any way.

If the joint is OEM and passes both inspections, replace BOTH boots with
NEW OEM, NOT aftermarket! New OEM is more expensive, but the new OEM boots
last well over ten years, and your OEM joints will outlast them. And if one
side is torn now, it's a sure bet the other won't be far behind.

If your current joints are aftermarket, then just rpleace the whole shaft,
like Elle says. It's going to be a lot less trouble. Just remember to let a
bit of air into the inner joint boot after shaft installation, so the
rubber doesn't stay puckered. Puckered boots will break within a thousand
miles.

People, I'll say it again: Inspect your CV joint boots! Catch them early
and you can save that very expesive, high-quality joint! Honda OEM joints
will last the life of the car if the boots are never allowed to split. New
OEM boots last well over ten years.

 

Tegger says...

Yes, this is all OEM. The car is 12 years old, but only
has 53K miles on it. I'm just now replacing the original
tires and front brakes.

What about the inner boots? Do they not usually fail as
fast? The mechanic didn't say anything about them, and I
don't think I can see them.

 

Tegger says...

Yes, this is all OEM. The car is 12 years old, but only
has 53K miles on it. I'm just now replacing the original
tires and front brakes.

What about the inner boots? Do they not usually fail as
fast? The mechanic didn't say anything about them, and I
don't think I can see them.

 

They don't usually fail *first* because they don't get the amount of flexing
the outer boots do. They are exposed to the same environment as the outer
boots, though, and I actually had an axle where the inner boot failed.
Obviously, the boots are changed when either fails, so we rarely know how
much longer the inner boots would go... we only know the first to fail.

Mike

 

They don't usually fail *first* because they don't get the amount of flexing
the outer boots do. They are exposed to the same environment as the outer
boots, though, and I actually had an axle where the inner boot failed.
Obviously, the boots are changed when either fails, so we rarely know how
much longer the inner boots would go... we only know the first to fail.

Mike

 

Inner boots generally last longer simply because they are not subject to
the flexing that the outers endure.

Still, while the half shaft is out of the vehicle it's just as easy to
replace both and be done with it. And as Tegger said, use OEM as the
other rubber out there is pretty chincy and will begin to crack within a
couple of years.

JT

 

Inner boots generally last longer simply because they are not subject to
the flexing that the outers endure.

Still, while the half shaft is out of the vehicle it's just as easy to
replace both and be done with it. And as Tegger said, use OEM as the
other rubber out there is pretty chincy and will begin to crack within a
couple of years.

JT

 

The inner boots will outlast the outers by several times. The inner boots
don't undergo the steering stresses that kill the outer boots. It's not a
boad idea to repack the inners with grease once every ten years, though.

If your OEM outer joints are still good, it would be *very* wise of you to
retain them, with new OEM boots (about $40 each, plus the bands and
grease). OEM CV joints are exceedingly high-quality.

The new OEM boots will last a dozen years easily, so this may be the last
you'll ever have to be concerned about the driveshafts.

 

The inner boots will outlast the outers by several times. The inner boots
don't undergo the steering stresses that kill the outer boots. It's not a
boad idea to repack the inners with grease once every ten years, though.

If your OEM outer joints are still good, it would be *very* wise of you to
retain them, with new OEM boots (about $40 each, plus the bands and
grease). OEM CV joints are exceedingly high-quality.

The new OEM boots will last a dozen years easily, so this may be the last
you'll ever have to be concerned about the driveshafts.

 

Data point for the archive:
Firestone replaced both of my 91 Civic's original outer
boots in mid-2000 at 112,000 miles. I do not know the exact
condition of the original boots when Firestone called and
recommended replacement; I was not hip to what CV boots were
all about until the last year or so. I would bet money the
replacement boots are non-OEM.

For the last several years I have inspected the boots
closely during at least twice yearly oil changes. After
another 6.5 years and at 186.5 miles, so far so good.

Tegger's, JT's, and other's comments on aftermarket boots
seem sound to me, since I am aware from other parts that the
OEM Honda rubber used in general is superior to aftermarket.
But if one is not going to keep the car long, one might
want to consider aftermarket.

 

Data point for the archive:
Firestone replaced both of my 91 Civic's original outer
boots in mid-2000 at 112,000 miles. I do not know the exact
condition of the original boots when Firestone called and
recommended replacement; I was not hip to what CV boots were
all about until the last year or so. I would bet money the
replacement boots are non-OEM.

For the last several years I have inspected the boots
closely during at least twice yearly oil changes. After
another 6.5 years and at 186.5 miles, so far so good.

Tegger's, JT's, and other's comments on aftermarket boots
seem sound to me, since I am aware from other parts that the
OEM Honda rubber used in general is superior to aftermarket.
But if one is not going to keep the car long, one might
want to consider aftermarket.

 

I agree with all posts here. Don't waste your time with the "clam
shell" aftermarket boots. They never stay on and dirt gets in anyway.
Replacing the half-shaft, if necessary, is not that expensive, time
consuming, or difficult.

As a life prolonging tip, I now spray the boots liberally with silicone
spray every few thousand miles (usually when I am under the car doing
oil changes). It only takes a few seconds and anything to keep them
soft and flexible, and prevent them from drying out will help.

--Jeff

 

I agree with all posts here. Don't waste your time with the "clam
shell" aftermarket boots. They never stay on and dirt gets in anyway.
Replacing the half-shaft, if necessary, is not that expensive, time
consuming, or difficult.

As a life prolonging tip, I now spray the boots liberally with silicone
spray every few thousand miles (usually when I am under the car doing
oil changes). It only takes a few seconds and anything to keep them
soft and flexible, and prevent them from drying out will help.

--Jeff

 

Jeff, exactly what silicone spray do you use? And what is
the year, miles, and CV boot history one the car on which
you use this?

If others concur, I think I would like to try this.

TIA

 

Jeff, exactly what silicone spray do you use? And what is
the year, miles, and CV boot history one the car on which
you use this?

If others concur, I think I would like to try this.

TIA

 

I tried the silicone spray with the '96 Odyssey, exactly as you suggest at
every oil change. It made absolutely no difference in the longevity of the
CV boots. They failed at about 8 years and 120,000 miles just like every
other Honda and Nissan I have owned.

There is anecdotal evidence, especially with the Nissans, that
prophylactically replacing the half shafts when the joints are still good
can reward you with an unbalanced axle. It is not a given that just because
the boots are torn that the joints are automatically bad. It depends on how
long they've been torn and what sort of driving has been done while they
were torn. If you caught it soon after the tear happened, and it hasn't
been submerged in water or slush or pounded with dirt roads, most likely the
joint is still good. I have never replaced a boot until it tore, and have
never had a joint subsequently fail. The mechanics like to replace the
whole axle because its less work than doing the boot, not because its
better.