CV joint boots

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by rev_otis_mcnatt, Jul 20, 2005.

  1. I've got a split one on the driver side. The rubber
    still looks good, but it split, I believe, because it
    was stretched out a little too much when installed.

    The CV joint is still good AFAIK. Would it be hard to
    install one myself? I've never done it, but have the
    usual tools and do lots of service work on my cars.
    I've also heard of "split boot devices" that can
    be wrapped around the axle and serve the purpose
    of the original boot, after of course removing the
    old boot. With these, the job is obviously much easier.
    Anybody know about these things? Thanks a bunch.
     
    rev_otis_mcnatt, Jul 20, 2005
    #1
  2. rev_otis_mcnatt

    Guest Guest

    I have tried split boot replacements and they haven't worked out well. I
    have given up on them.

    I use only integral boots now.

    There is a new technique which allows an integral boot to be installed
    without dissembling everything
    but it requires a special stretching tool to do it.

    Boots can be replaced with relatively simple tools, and it is within the
    reach of most fair
    amateur mechanics.
     
    Guest, Jul 20, 2005
    #2
  3. rev_otis_mcnatt

    Murphy Guest

    I've heard of others having problems with split boots, so I looked into
    another method. I've changed a cracked boot with one of these tools:

    http://tinyurl.com/bodpj

    using universal stretch boots (you can't use oem type boots with this
    tool):

    http://tinyurl.com/avt8e

    Easier than removing the driveshaft and disassembling, and probably will
    last longer than a split boot.
     
    Murphy, Jul 20, 2005
    #3
  4. rev_otis_mcnatt

    the fly Guest

    Split boots are crap. They're easier to install, but they
    don't seal adequately. Water is the first enemy; road grit, the
    second.
    Do it the hard (right) way. Buy a boot kit from a reputable
    manufacturer and pull the axle to disassemble and install.
     
    the fly, Jul 20, 2005
    #4
  5. rev_otis_mcnatt

    bob Guest

    The first URL says "Installer will avoid removing axle and disassembling of
    joint ". I assume it stretches the boot so it can slip over the end of the
    shaft but I'm having trouble visualizing how you can change the boot without
    removing the axle.

    If someone can explain how this can be done on the car, please share.

    Thanks,
    Bobby
     
    bob, Jul 20, 2005
    #5
  6. rev_otis_mcnatt

    jim beam Guest

    the whole point of a split boot is that you don't need to do anything
    like take the shaft out - which "slipping over the end" would require -
    it's split so you just leave the shaft in place, get rid of the old
    boot, clean up & fit the new boot around the shaft, then glue up the
    seam. some boots are held together with screws, but whatever the
    seaming method, the principle is the same.

    if you want to replace a boot "properly" with a non-split boot, you /do/
    have to remove the axle and remove the end that seats in the
    diff/transaxle. that allows both boots to be installed without any
    difficult stretching problems.
     
    jim beam, Jul 20, 2005
    #6
  7. rev_otis_mcnatt

    Ayre Schnell Guest

    Murphy wrote
    what does this "tube looking thing with a black pointy cone" (in the picture) do?
    isn't this another split boot? I mean, how can it be installed "without disassembly"?
    the page has a model/name "CV Flex Boot Standard - Astoria 2000"

    FB3000
    Standard Flex Boot
    Features & Benefits:
    # Universal Flex Boot
    # Fits 90% Of Domestic/Import Cars
    # Replace without dissasembly
    # Includes heavy duty band clamp
     
    Ayre Schnell, Jul 20, 2005
    #7
  8. rev_otis_mcnatt

    bob Guest

    so it sounds like this is a split boot but has some kind of jig to hold it
    or something? I cannot tell from the web site. Last time I changed one,
    the part I got said it could be slipped over the shaft. There was a cone
    shaped tool available but I disassembled and installed as normal as I
    discovered this after opening the box at home. Too lazy to go back to parts
    store and look for tool. Anyway, when I saw the tool in the URL in the
    original post, I assumed this was that cone-tool. Must be something else.

    bb

    ******
     
    bob, Jul 20, 2005
    #8
  9. rev_otis_mcnatt

    Murphy Guest

    You can download step-by-step instructions on how to install here:

    http://tinyurl.com/awbpe

    You still have to remove the axle nut and separate the wheel hub from
    the axle, but the axle can stay attached to the transmission.
     
    Murphy, Jul 20, 2005
    #9
  10. rev_otis_mcnatt

    Guest Guest

    The boots I am talking about will actually expand to slip over the CV joing
    itself, over the axle
    splines, etc. They are not at all split boots.

    You can load them onto an air powered 'piston' shaped tool that will expand
    them like you
    wouldnt believe. But, I imagine that without the tool, you would be just as
    well off to take the
    axle out and do it the old way.

    I wouldn't waste my time on split boots, unless it was just to limp home
    from a trip, and even
    then they may not make it.
     
    Guest, Jul 20, 2005
    #10
  11. Too bad there's not a way to, say, staple and glue the two
    split parts back together, assuming the rest of the boot
    is good...
     
    rev_otis_mcnatt, Jul 20, 2005
    #11
  12. rev_otis_mcnatt

    bob Guest

    This makes sense. I guess I confused "remove" with "disassemble". It would
    be nice if you didn't have to disassemble the front suspension. On my
    wife's mazda, on the passenger side, after taking the suspension apart and
    sliding the spline out, removing the axle is just a tap but on the diriver's
    side I guess there is an advantage of not removing the shaft as the
    transmission fluid falls out.

    Thanks for all of the dialog.
    Bob
     
    bob, Jul 21, 2005
    #12
  13. rev_otis_mcnatt

    jim beam Guest

    you can try loctite 404. rubber would have to be ultra clean though.
     
    jim beam, Jul 21, 2005
    #13
  14. rev_otis_mcnatt

    Sam Nickaby Guest

    "With lubricant. Place the (black pointy cone) on the ground and center the
    boot over the cone. Holding the boot to the installer use a firm and fluent
    motion to press the boot to the base of the cone.

    Place the installer & cone over the joint. Drive the boot over the joint by striking the
    base of the installer grease the joint. And stretch don't over the joint until a tight fit
    is formed. "

    Read more http://www.jonnesway.com.tw/ar060023.htm
     
    Sam Nickaby, Jul 21, 2005
    #14
  15. It sounds like a good idea, but it really isn't. If you can't clean the joint
    before you put the new boot on, it is just a matter of time before it will
    fail. You need to clean the joint before putting the new boot on.
     
    Alex Rodriguez, Jul 21, 2005
    #15
  16. rev_otis_mcnatt

    Guest Guest

    Of course, if the boot is compromised and there is water, salt, dirt inside,
    the joint should be
    cleaned and repacked. You might be able to get it clean enough using a
    solvent wash without
    opening the joint, but getting new grease into the inner bearings might be a
    problem.

    Some people actually identify and replace deteriorating boots before they go
    completely to hell.

    The first boot I replaced, I inadvertantly allowed the joint to
    separate(even after being warned and
    taking considerable care) , and needle bearings and balls went everywhere.
    I finally managed to find
    them all, clean everything meticulously, and packed everything back into
    place. This was a real
    learning experience which I do not care to repeat.
     
    Guest, Jul 21, 2005
    #16
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