Dealing with screws, bolts etc

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by John Smith, Jun 27, 2007.

  1. John Smith

    John Smith Guest

    I am trying to perform several tasks that all seem to end up the same --
    stymied by a rusted, stripped, immobile screw, bolt, or connector. (My car
    is a 99, driven eight winters on salt-laden streets.)

    The latest is the retaining screw that holds the air tube on the throttle
    body which won't budge no matter what I've tried. If I could get it off,
    I'd like to remove and clean the throttle body but I have no idea what
    obstacles that will present. I'm also trying to get to the IACV which is
    way behind the throttle. The one screw I can see looks rusty to me, and I'm
    put off by attacking the ones I can't see. I also need to remove the
    distributor and expect to find similar obstacles in that job.

    Any advice, tricks, tips etc. for dealing with these energy-sapping
    obstacles would be appreciated. Thanks.
     
    John Smith, Jun 27, 2007
    #1
  2. John Smith

    motsco_ Guest

    --------------------------

    Your diagrams are at www.slhondaparts.com and PB Blaster seems to be
    good stuff for pre-soaking sticky nuts. Beware it might dissolve some
    HOSES. As for cleaning the throttle body you can do a basic job by
    reaching in and cleaning the throttle plate and inside with a dampened
    cloth, after removing the rubber intake tube.

    'Curly'
     
    motsco_, Jun 27, 2007
    #2
  3. John Smith

    Elle Guest

    Like Curly wrote, PB Blaster is the best stuff around for
    freeing rusty bolts and screws. It's available for a few
    dollars a can at Autozone, Wal-Mart, etc. Tapping on the
    bolt or screw can help shake some rust off, too. Soak with
    the PB Blaster, tap, soak again, try to unfasten.

    Post specific instances here, and people can give more
    advice, depending on the scenario. And there are a lot of
    them!
     
    Elle, Jun 27, 2007
    #3
  4. John Smith

    william1977 Guest

    PB Blaster is the stuff to use! the only thing I have ever found that
    I liked as much as PB was Valvoline Synthetic lube but I can't find
    the stuff any more. You will want to use six point sockets rather than
    a twelve point socket, you will have a lot smaller chance of stripping
    the head off of the bolt. If you have any rusted bolts that give you a
    lot of trouble or look rough I would replace the bolt.
     
    william1977, Jun 27, 2007
    #4
  5. John Smith

    Tegger Guest



    Use a set of angled needle-nose pliers and turn the shaft of the screw.
    Failing that, use a Dremel to cut the screw in half. Replace the
    assembly with a regular worm-type hose clamp, which, oddly enough, fits
    perfectly.

    A new correct clamp assembly is about $10 at the dealer.

    You can also lever the air hose off the throttle body, but be careful
    not to damage it or the aluminum casting.



    Six-point sockets and air tools.
     
    Tegger, Jun 28, 2007
    #5

  6. GM Penatrant/Lubricant. Get it at a GM parts counter (yes, GM *DOES*
    actually make something worthwhile! ;)

    Runs $8~12 depending how much of a discount the parts guy gives you...

    Spray anything you want to work on a day in advance. Spray everything
    else, too.

    I had a Toyota Tercel that had the usual rust/corrosion, and sprayed them
    with this stuff. Teo days later they looked NEW! Periodic sprays kept them
    looking new, and made them easy to remove.
     
    Hachiroku ハチロク, Jun 28, 2007
    #6
  7. My trick only works with nuts, not bolts or screws :-(

    Assuming the nut is accessible enough, clamp a pair of locking pliers
    (Vise-Grips or similar) down on the nut. If the nut is not a small one you
    will probably have to use as much strength as possible. Spray the threads at
    the end of the nut with penetrant and let it set a few minutes. Remove the
    pliers and repeat on as many pairs of sides as are accessible.

    I've used this over the years with nuts that just wouldn't break loose
    otherwise and have had success every time - except when the nuts were
    totally rusted, of course. The pressure of the pliers forces the threads to
    bottom out and opens up gaps 90 degrees away. The penetrant gets in and has
    an opportunity to work where it might otherwise be locked out. Now, if only
    there were an equivalent for bolts or that stupid retaining screw....

    Mike
     
    Michael Pardee, Jun 29, 2007
    #7
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