Debating, what's better older Civic or Newer?

Discussion in 'Civic' started by mopa, Jun 9, 2005.

  1. mopa

    mopa Guest

    I have a 1993 Honda Civic, and I love it. It's a great car, pretty fast
    for a small car, and it gets wonderful gas mileage. I am just debating
    on whether or not I just sell it and get something newer.

    I think the 1997/1999 civics are the best years, well, from what I
    heard. The 2000+ have to much road noise, and my 1993 has way to much
    noise. When I drive on the expressway you can hear everything outside,
    but I guess thats normal with the older civics. They don't have much
    insulation.

    My 1993 civic has 186K miles, and I wonder if I would be better off
    just selling it, and buying a newer model, or just keep it and swap out
    the engine, and if I do. Is it possible to swap it with a V-TEC (as
    mine is a 1.5 SOHC), but not change the trans? or would they both need
    to be swamped?

    Thanks for the advice people. :p
     
    mopa, Jun 9, 2005
    #1
  2. mopa

    BigBrew Guest

    I was in the same predicament a few months ago. I had a 93 CX hatch with
    156 K that needed a lot of work. I ended up with a 2001 EX in mint
    condition with 4 K on the odometer. I prefer everything in the 93 to the
    01 except the engine. If I didn't have to change cars for work purposes
    (its a long story...), then I would have kept on with the 93 to the
    bitter end, which may have been a year or two away given the condition
    of the car. If you don't have to get another car, then don't. You won't
    get too much for your car either.

    I looked into getting a motor swap thing and realized that the whole
    process is way over my head at this time. The question you asked about
    the swap indicates that you are a long way from knowing enough to get
    the job done right at the right price. Keep researching on that one.

    B
     
    BigBrew, Jun 9, 2005
    #2
  3. mopa

    jim beam Guest

    have you ever lost the key or had it towed? the folk that break into
    your car for either of the above reasons generally pry open the top of
    the door frame. sometimes they leave a slight bend. that can be
    *carefully* bent back so the rubbers snug properly. the cars are /much/
    quieter after that. my 2000 civic, new off the dealer lot, had that
    problem. seems someone had had to "enter" the vehicle, slightly bent
    the door frame and the wind noise was terrible. cured by winding the
    window all the way down, [important!] and pounding on the top of the
    frame with the heel of a clenched fist. carefully. about 3 blows had
    it back to oem, as could be seen from how it sat in the frame compared
    to the [undamaged] passenger door, and she's been fine since then.
    check for the condition of the door rubbers also.
    personally, i'd keep running what you have. you'll be disappointed by
    the handling of the current generation. if you fix the noise problem,
    and take care of maintenance, there's no reason the 93 can't last
    another 100k or even 200k. those engines are fine & the transmissions
    last forever.

    engine swaps are fun if you need the performance, but honestly, if you
    look after your old engine, run good oil, take care of the ignition
    components, pcv valves, etc, your car will run great and give good gas
    mileage.

    the last generation of civics to have the wishbone suspension was the
    96-2000. 2001 onwards is macpherson.
     
    jim beam, Jun 9, 2005
    #3
  4. mopa

    mopa Guest

    wow thanks for all the advice. I guess it's best to just keep it. I
    paid $1,900 and so far only had to have the gaskets replaced, timing
    belt changed, and install a stereo system, because it didn't come with
    one. A few months ago I replaced the cheap ass aluminum radiator that
    honda put in their older cars. I am not sure if they still do. I
    replaced it with a copper one, and that baby always stays cool. The
    older years I heard always over heat, and the copper works so
    perfectly.

    I always use Castrol synthetic oil for my baby, and change the oil
    every 2k miles, even though its not necessary I hear, but I just like
    the oil to be nice and clean. When I see a broken down civic I just
    think to my self "WHAT THE HELL DID THE PERSON DO?" normally civics
    always work great, unless you fail to change the oil.

    jim beam, would you know where one could buy new rubber insulation for
    a civic? I assume since my car is 12 years old, the insulation is no
    longer good as it once was. I believe its also the windows that is the
    main cause for all the noise.

    As of now all I need is a new AC compressor, and an alignment. The old
    compressor was shot when I bought it. I guess I got a pretty good deal
    1900 for a 93 LX Civic that had 156k miles. I see some pretty crappy
    looking 91/95 civics for as much as $4000 and they have almost 200k
    miles, and look like crap.

    cheers
     
    mopa, Jun 10, 2005
    #4
  5. mopa

    jim beam Guest

    if they overheat, it's a symptom of a problem, not that the radiator is
    intrinsically incorrect. copper's fine, but aluminum, when used with
    the proper coolant as should be the case with an aluminum block, will be
    fine. lighter too. while you're thinking cooling, i suggest a
    thermostat replacement as a good investment - they tend to lose
    calibration after a time. make sure it's oem, not aftermarket. you'll
    need the rubber gasket as well - they tend to corrode.
    if you just got the car and the grunge of previous neglect is still
    working its way out of the system, sure, change at low mileage a few
    times. i did that on my 89 when i first got it, and a lot of the dark
    stuff inside the rocker cover has now gone. after that however,
    particularly for the "synthetic" oils, you're wasting your money big time.
    can get the seals from hondaautomotiveparts.com, but it's probably not
    necessary unless they're worn or torn. sometimes they drop a bit from
    the frame, but that's easily cured by removing, squeezing the strip back
    into "grip mode", then refitting.
     
    jim beam, Jun 10, 2005
    #5
  6. mopa

    mopa Guest

    What year civic are you driving now? the 89?

    Using synthetic is the best right? but what? just don't change it every
    2k miles. How often should it be changed? I live in Atlanta and in the
    State of Georgia you drive a lot. It's not like it was when I lived up
    north (driving 10 miles a day or less) here you drive at least about
    100 miles a day. I drive around 600/700 miles a week, so I put on a lot
    of miles on my civic, so I figured it would be best to change the oil
    often. It keeps the car running longer right?

    Well my car would over heat, and its normally every day 90 degrees plus
    here, and last year I had to drive in 90 degree weather with the damn
    HEAT on because the car would over heat. I changed the aluminum
    radiator three months ago, and ever since then the copper one has been
    keeping my civic perfectly cool. It now stays at the 1/3 mark, it used
    to be at the 2/3 mark. I just figured aluminum radiators suck, because
    after all toss an aluminum can in a fire and it will burn and melt.
    Copper needs a very high temp to melt, so it absorbs heat better I
    would assume.

    I checked out the website, and it seems very cool. Thanks man!
     
    mopa, Jun 10, 2005
    #6
  7. mopa

    jim beam Guest

    one of my civics is the 89, yes. my favorite.
    depends. if you're right on the edge of the performance envelope, sure,
    [true] synthetics are best, but for your car [you don't say which trim
    level] a decent oil with a decent additive package is more than
    adequate. using oil with a poor additive package in my 89 caused the
    oil seals to leak like crazy. using castrol gtx, it hardly leaks at all.
    follow the recommendations in the owners manual. personally, i spend a
    fair amount of time in stop-go city traffic, so i change every 5000
    miles, a little below the 7500 mile factory spec, but where you're doing
    mainly freeway miles, you should be able to safely extend that,
    especially if you're using "synthetic". [google for castrol synthetic -
    it's actually, not. it's still a great oil, but technically, it's not a
    full synthetic.]
    sure, regular scheduled oil changes are essential for long life, but
    premature oil changes are wasting money and achieve nothing for the car.
    a good oil can carry a fair load of combustion product and is fairly
    stable against breakdown, retains its lube characteristics, etc. as
    long as it's within spec, it's doing its job, so premature change is
    merely adding load to the environment and subtracting financial load
    from your wallet.
    sure, but a radiator can be blocked with corrosion inside, be blocked
    with debris, insects outside, have inadequate coolant mix, etc. with
    correct design, there's no reason an aluminum radiator is any less
    capable than the aluminum one.
    aluminum does not ordinarily burn. if it does, it's pretty dramatic &
    you don't want to be in the vicinity. melt, yes, burn no.
    no correlation. silver's a much better conductor than copper, but has a
    much lower melting temp. tungsten has a much much higher melting temp
    than copper but less than half the thermal conductivity.
     
    jim beam, Jun 10, 2005
    #7
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