Distributor cap/cover 1997 Civic

Is there a good resource online (or could someone tell me ) how
exactly to remove the distributor cap/cover to clean it and see the
condition of it, i.e., if there are a lot of carbon deposits, etc. ...

Thanks in advance, for ANY and ALL help!!!

 

sounds easy enough, depending on the location...all you should need is
your rachet and your screwdriver, and when u remove it if u see carbon
deposits...just a little isn't a big deal, if it's corroded, then you
may consider changing it...but depending on what problem you are
having it could be a waste of money. (saying this because I wasted
money changing a cap and rotor for my integra long ago when it was
really the distributor itself) But it should be easy enough.

 

Thanks for your reply!

I did take it off, and, I was sort of disappointed, there wasn't much
carbon at all, ha...

What happened with your Acura? I still cannot figure out what's wrong
with my car. Long story short, I bought it brand new, never had a
problem with it, EVER, and then last week it suddenly stopped running
in the middle of the road! Without warning! Weird, eh?

It's not the timing belt (checked), it's not the fuel system
(checked), and now it's down to ignition... I think.
The cap and rotor looked semi-okay, do you think it could be the
distributor itself? How would you find out? (Cheaply... if
possible )

Thanks again!!!

--M.

 

Sounds more like a coil to me... Distributor is possible, but coil is
more likely, IMO.

When you initially asked the question, the two biggest possibilities given
to you were coil and igniter. Did you check either of them, or follow the
troubleshooting at the following address?

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/startproblems.html#checkspark

It is probably a quick and inexpensive fix.

 

wrote in @p15g2000hsd.googlegroups.com:

Not "weird". If your spark disappears, the car will not run. You've never
checked for spark, have you?

90% of start problems are ignition-related. Right now yours sounds like the
igniter.

Could have told you that right from the beginning in that other thread you
started then abandoned. 90% of start problems are ignition-related.

Instead of yakkin' it up in here, go do some actual diagnostics instead.
You never know, you might just find your problem.

Check out this handy page:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/startproblems.html

 

Tegger

I took your advice, thank you; didn't mean to abandon that other
thread - new at this discussion board.

Now, I have checked for spark - there's not. That's why I wanted to
know how to take off the distributor cover - I did that too, and it
all looks fine - even the rotor seems to be in good shape. Later
today I'm supposed to get a multimeter and see what pans out.

Now, please be gentle, I hope this isn't a stupid question: I spoke
to someone at the dealership today, and he said that even though it
appeared that the timing belt wasn't broken, it could have 'jumped
time' since the engine was in 4th, and a load was applied when it
stopped running. Is this an actual possibility, what he's saying,
that the belt could still be on there but 'loose'? I'd not read
anything on these boards about it and it seemed that he might have
less than good motives for coming up with something like that..

Thanks for your help, again, Tegger, much appreciated.

 

P.S.
Tegger, I saw your note above, but know I've read your faq almost
nonstop for the past 8-10 hours. Trust me, this novice is really
tryin! It's a great resource you have there, much appreciated

 

(Also, the dealer hasn't actually seen the car; he is relying on just
what I told him...)

 

wrote in

When a timing belt jumps, it normally does it at the crank pulley. This
means the camshaft(s) will be out of time, so the ignition will be off as
well. You'll likely still get spark at the plugs, but it may be weak.

There are only two ways to make sure it's not the belt:
1) Hook up timing light to #1 plug and crank. Check timing at crank pulley.
Timing should be between TDC and the group of three marks.
2) Remove valve cover. Crank engine over by hand (COUNTER-clockwise) with a
19mm socket and ratchet until #1 piston is at TDC compression. Cam marks
should then be lined up. If they're way off, the belt has jumped.

If the timing belt is OK (and I suspect it is), you need to take a logical
route backwards from the plugs. If you followed my advice on how to check
for spark and didn't see any at the plugs, then you need to find out why.

The first thing to check is your tachometer, if you have one. If you crank
and the tach needle is dead-still, then the igniter is bad. If the tach
needle bounces a bit, then it's probably the coil that's died.

If you don't have a tach, you need use a multimeter and backprobe the blue
wire at the distributor connector. While cranking, the multimeter should
show voltage at the blue wire. If it does, the igniter is fine. If it does
not, the igniter is dead.

One thing I've run into once or twice is a failed RF resistor in the
distributor rotor. This will kill the current to the distributor cap and
will then kill the coil.

 

if it's anything like acura, my best bet would be the distributor

 

Thanks Tegger, what a great help. I had no idea about the tach; yes,
I do have one, and that makes things much easier. I will check
that first thing, along with the timing, and, once again, thank you so
much for being such an incredible resource