distributor

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by cmozoo, May 23, 2006.

  1. cmozoo

    TeGGeR® Guest


    Excellent idea if the screw has a Philips head.



    Weak spark. Don't change them.

    What I would STRONGLY recommend is that you NEVER AGAIN attempt to crank
    the engine with the distributor cap removed, or the wires unplugged. THAT'S
    what kills the coil.
     
    TeGGeR®, May 27, 2006
    #21
  2. cmozoo

    TeGGeR® Guest


    I hasten to say the anti-seize ought to be dabbed ONLY on the back of the
    screw head, and NOT on the threads or on the hole.

    It's the perimeter of the head that gets corroded in place, so that's where
    you need the anti-seize.
     
    TeGGeR®, May 27, 2006
    #22
  3. cmozoo

    cmozoo Guest

    I found the screw and have unscrewed it but I still can't get the rotor
    off. I can't get the screw to screw totally out of the rotor. I can
    turn the screw by hand and it seems like it should be out but it isn't.
    When I did find the screw it was partially smushed into the plastic of
    the side of the rotor.
    Chris
     
    cmozoo, May 28, 2006
    #23
  4. cmozoo

    Elle Guest

    To confirm: The screw is supposed to come totally free.
    Drill and Easy-Out (= screw extractor) it. Easy-Outs are not
    always successful, though. You might want to just drill a
    hole through rotor and shaft, buy a new rotor, and cotter
    pin the rotor into position. Worked on my 91 Civic until I
    ended up buying a new housing several months later. A person
    here suggested the cotter pin fix to me, having had success
    with it on his Honda.
     
    Elle, May 28, 2006
    #24
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