DIY Rust proofing the RSX (long)

I guess I decided to post this because I have received much help
from these forums and, well, it is my turn to "give back", as
they say... (I also posted this to the clubrsx.com forum). I hope
this helps someone. Winter is coming, afterall...

I have been debating weather to rust proof my brand new RSX. I
learn about the various products (wax vs. oil base), the pros and
cons (wax does not drip, but craps and traps moisture and plugs
drainage holes - oil make impact rubber seals). I've learn that
most professional services drill holes. Those services who do not
drill holes usually charge an arm and a leg. I've also learn that
new Acura/Hondas are pretty good when it comes to rust protection
so perhaps Rust Proofing may not be that helpful.

Anyway, I did not like the idea of having a monkey drill holes
all over my car, so I simply decided to do it myself. It was
relatively easy and I feel I did as good of a job then any other
services our there. It is really easy and took me 3 hours.

I discovered that applying a rust proofing product is relatively
easy to do from the inside of the car without damaging the
various door panels and mouldings in the process. In fact, most
areas that would technically require rust proofing are accessible
from the inside of the car.

I focused my attention on reaching areas where Acura/Hondas tend
to rust the most. In Canada, these are mostly: inside rear
fenders, inside doors and doorsills, and around the windshield. I
have not seen significant rust perforation anywhere else on
Hondas. Incidentally, these are areas where my Acura Integra 1991
started rusting AFTER I had applied crappy wax-based rust
proofing (turns out that the product actually encouraged rusting
by trapping moister -more on that below).

Here is what I did: (of course this varied depending on your car
but I feel that this should be relatively easy on Civics Accords,
etc.. specially 2 door models

1) Hondas/Acura door panels can be removed relatively easily
(usually only 4 screws) to install speakers, etc.And by removing
the white plastic sheet glued to the door, you have access to the
whole inside of the door. I sprayed liberally on the whole
door -from the window all the way down, including around the door
handle, locks, hinges, and all around, until it drips out from
the drainage holes. Make sure that these holes remain
unobstructed before placing the panels back. Use a pipe cleaner
if they are.

2) Most of the rear fender is accessible by removing the rear
speakers. It is extremely easy to do. However, reach in and
remove the sound dampening material found inside, at the bottom
BEFORE applying rust protection. It looks like a rectangle, soft
foam pad (12 inches long, by 4" high and 4" deep) wrapped in
thick plastic. I suspect that if one simply drilled holes and
spray rustproof in there without removing the sound dampening
material, as most shops would do, you will have a mess! Worst is
one could be drilling into the plastic wrapper and only spray
inside it - not very helpful. Good reason for D-I-Y!

3) You can also remove the doorplates quite easily and use their
holes to spray the product.

4) I have also found that the rear hatch is easily "sprayable" by
removing the oval rubber "guards" (i.e. door stopper the size of
a wine bottle cork) on each side, and use their holes for
spraying. Use the gravity in your favour and open the hatch all
the way up. Leave it open and spray the product from the highest
hole and let the product drip to the bottom holes.

5) The taillights area. You can remove a panel from inside the
trunk to access that area. You can also go from above the license
plate: there is an opening there that is pretty big.

6) Most sections of the front fenders can be reached via the
engine bay.

When you think about it, it makes sense to DIY:

1) One does not need to drill holes in your shinny new toy! Holes
can let more moisture in. Metal shavings from drilling can fall
inside, encouraging rust.
2) I can apply the product exactly and only where I wanted: the
services will spay their product liberally all over you car; some
of it is doomed to go on the plastic panels and eventually seep
into them. Some will get into the engine bay and make a urge
mess. Some stain your paint...
3) None of the services will spray around the roof or windshield.
I did.
4) I applyed it only where it makes sense, i.e. Where it most
likely to rust (mainly the rear fenders and doors)
5) I avoided spraying on the rubber seals or gaskets (some
product may damage rubber seals)
6) It is cheaper to do: approx. 24$ Canadian (or 17US), instead
then $120-ish
7) It is relatively satisfying to do: messy but easy to do.
8) You WILL do a more thorough job: only you have a vested
interest to do it right.
9) If you want, in addition to this, you still can get the car
undercoated with an oil-based product at Wal-Mart (these monkeys
cannot really screw up that, can they? I mean, how hard is it to
spray the underside of the car). If you are in Canada, do NOT use
the Corrosion-Free product from Canadian Tire. It is a mix oil
and wax-based product and it actually caused my 91 Teg to rust
something bad by trapping moisture and cracking.

Disadvantage of DIY:
1) Was not sure if I was applying too little so I will spray
until it leaks out! I may have put too much ;-)
2) Not sure if I am spraying in all the right places. Perhaps I
will miss some?
3) No warranty: Rust Check, Krown and others services provide a
10 year warranty against perforation. However, I am wondering if
their warranty is indeed worth the paper they are written on.
4) It is messy. My wife hated the mess it did to the driveway
5) The product I use (Rust Check) smells a little - very little
but still...
6) The process needs to be repeated yearly.

Product to use:
I have research this and found a few things about rust proofing
products. First, there are the wax-based products (usually
advertised as "no-drip") and oil-based products: heavy and light
oil (both will drip!). I was told to stay away from wax as it
dries, traps moisture, and can blocks drainage holes. This is
what happened to my 1991 Teg which encourage it to rust. However,
"Light Oil" goes everywhere, in all nooks and crannies, but it
can stretch rubber seals and gaskets. If you are worried, you can
protect your seals with silicone based spray first.

Overall, I used almost three full cans of Rust Check ($8 CDN each
@ Canadian Tire) - apparently the best product for rust proofing
available for retail sale (NOT THE UNDERCOATING ONE) - I thought
of getting POR-15 (?), but it is quite expensive. Might be worth
it if you want a "one application deal".

These cans were divided up this way:
- 1 spray can for the both doors (they are nice and drippy!)
- 1/2 for the both rear fenders - behind the doors and above the
rear wheels (I went trough the speakers' opening and sprayed
liberally in there. Not sure if I was able to spray way back,
rear end of the wheel, though)
- 1/2 for the front fenders (via the engine bay)
- 1/8 for the roof area and the hatch and between bumper and
licence plate.
- 1/4 for the hood and inside the engine bay (very very little
there, I hate to work in that slim).

Total Project Cost: 24$ Cdn (3 cans)

I did not do the undercarriage. As I said, I *might* consider
having it done professionally with another oil based product as
doing THIS is **messy**!

I am pretty sure I did a better job on the doors then what Krown
or Rust Check would have done by drilling. I was really able to
get up there into the nooks and all. Didn't spray on stuff I did
not want either (pw motor, etc.). Door panels came off and on
without a problem. Nothing broke. And the best of it. NO HOLES
DRILLED!

Cheers!

 

I bought a 92 Civic Si new; it's now in the hands of my nephew, and
still shines and looks superb. A bubble of rust has finally started to
appear on a rear wheel well.

I wouldn't worry about a new Honda and rust.

 

Well. I am a hypochondria that lives in Ottawa. Here, they pour
way too much salt on the road. It is not unuasual for cars to be
all white in the winter, due to the salt. So, I told myself that
it could not do anything bad, if anything, rust proofing *may be
acceptable*.

Plus, it was a nice long weekend project!

F

 

Do you mean rust proofing by appying tarry stuff to the underside?
Some say those coatings retain salt and water and speed rusting.

Is a hypochondria a feminine hypochondriac?

H.

 

Oh no. Not the tar thing. I simply spray Rust Check (more of a
light oil).

Opps, mispelled word. Sorry

 

I'm taking a different approach with my new RSX. I'm not getting it
rust protected aftermarket or DIY. At about the 6th/7th year I will
start applying rust protection as that's when most cars start to rust.
So I will choose an oil based product such as Oil Gard and have
someone professionally apply it.

I also live in Ontario.