DTC Code Help - I have the codes just need to know what they mean...

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by Mike, Jan 20, 2004.

  1. Mike

    Mike Guest

    Hey all and thank you in advance for your help.

    I am hoping someone out there has a code book and can look these up
    and advise me on the proper part.......

    I had a local shop hook up a computer and gave me theses codes but I
    am more interested in fixing the problem myself. Just need to know
    what parts or be pointed in the right direction.

    Here are the codes:
    P0141 - Bank 1 Sensor 2
    P0171 - System 2 Lean
    P0135 - Bank 1 Sensor 1
    P1298 - Mfgr Controlled Fuel Fault
    P0501 - VSS Sensor Range

    The guy that gave me the codes also did a rest but my car is still
    acting up... The transmission is surging like it is looking for the
    gears and the speedo is going NUTS !!

    All help is appreciated.
     
    Mike, Jan 20, 2004
    #1
  2. Mike

    Randolph Guest

    It would help to know what year / model car this is.

    I would start tracing back the P0501 error. VSS stands for Vehicle Speed
    Sensor and is a little electronic pickup that goes where the old
    speedometer cable used to be (on the differential). If the VSS does not
    work, the speedometer would act up (you said yours does), and the tranny
    would have a really hard time knowing what gear to select.

    Without knowing year/model, this is fairly general, but my VSS ('94
    Civic) has three terminals: Ground (black wire on my car), battery
    voltage when ignition is on (Yellow w/ blue stripe) and pulse signal
    back to the ECU (yellow w/ white stripe). If you have a multimeter you
    can do some simple tests.

    1. Unplug the connector at the VSS. Turn on ignition (do not start the
    car). Measure if you have continuity between chassis ground and the
    black wire at the connector. There should be continuity. Then measure
    voltage between chassis ground and the yellow/blue wire. There should be
    battery voltage. If either of these measurements don't give the expected
    result there is a wiring problem somewhere.

    2. Plug the connector back into the VSS. Set the hand brake, block the
    front and back of the front passenger side tire. Put transmission in
    neutral. Raise the front driver's side of the car so that the front left
    tire is off the ground. Turn on ignition and measure voltage between
    chassis ground and the yellow/white wire while you slowly rotate the
    front left wheel. The voltage should alternate between something close
    to 0V and something close to battery voltage (12 - 13 V typically).
    Probing the yellow/white wire with the connector plugged in can be
    tricky. I sometimes use a sewing needle to poke down into the connector
    to reach the metal. If this test fails, you have a bad VSS.

    All the above references are to a '94 Civic. Your wire colors may be
    different. If you have AWD / 4WD and the VSS is on the rear differential
    (don't know if it is on the rear differential or not, but IF it is),
    elevate the rear wheel instead of the front.

    If you replace the VSS, be aware that there is a tiny drive link in
    there that may get lost if you are not careful.

    I would sort out the VSS problem first, as you know this is a "real"
    problem. Then I would reset the ECU and drive for a few days and hope
    that the other error codes go away too.
     
    Randolph, Jan 20, 2004
    #2
  3. Mike

    Barry S. Guest

    Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit
    System TOO Lean (Bank 1)
    Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit
    "A high voltage problem in the Electrical Load Detector" -- 96
    Acura Integra manual but expect most the Hondas of that vintage are
    the same.
    I'll take a swing at it.

    Sounds like 2 interrelated problems. One Emissions/Fuel and the other
    VSS.

    I'd say start by testing the VSS. The primary control signals for a
    transmission are vehicle speed and load. (VSS and MAP/Load/ELD?).. If
    the input from either is missing or bad, you will have a very confused
    transmission. It may not be getting, or be getting bad information
    from either or both..

    It could also be that the VSS or load signal is causing it not to
    supply enough fuel and that might also do it.

    It could also be a computer or wiring that has failed.

    You may want to take this to a professional.

    __________________
    Note: To reply, replace the word 'spam' embedded in return address with 'mail'.
    N38.6 W121.4
     
    Barry S., Jan 21, 2004
    #3
  4. Mike

    Chip Stein Guest

    this is a civic isn't it?? what you have is a blown fuse. check all of
    them inside and out. there was a bulletin on this but i can't remember
    which fuse.
    i do recognize all the codes though.
    Chip
     
    Chip Stein, Jan 22, 2004
    #4
  5. Mike

    MELSAUTO Guest

    Ihad a similar problem the answer is at this Link:
    http://autorepair.about.com/library/a/1d/bl021d.htm

    The first thing to do is to pull the codes from the computer. Since all of
    these problems started when the Check Engine Light (MIL) came on, they are
    probably related.

    If you get a DTC of P1298 (electrical load detector), P0135 (primary
    heated oxygen sensor), P0141 (secondary heated oxygen sensor), or P0501
    (vehicle speed sensor) stored. Fuse 15 in the under-dash fuse box is
    blown.

    If it is blown it is probably because the engine wiring harness is rubbing
    on the intake manifold bracket.
     
    MELSAUTO, Apr 15, 2006
    #5
  6. Mike

    MELSAUTO Guest

    Ihad a similar problem the answer is at this Link:
    http://autorepair.about.com/library/a/1d/bl021d.htm

    The first thing to do is to pull the codes from the computer. Since all of
    these problems started when the Check Engine Light (MIL) came on, they are
    probably related.

    If you get a DTC of P1298 (electrical load detector), P0135 (primary
    heated oxygen sensor), P0141 (secondary heated oxygen sensor), or P0501
    (vehicle speed sensor) stored. Fuse 15 in the under-dash fuse box is
    blown.

    If it is blown it is probably because the engine wiring harness is rubbing
    on the intake manifold bracket.
     
    MELSAUTO, Apr 15, 2006
    #6
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