EG Civic Brake Master

Hi All,
I think my Brake Master Cylinder is on its way out on my 1995 EG Honda
Civic (1.5L D15B7)

Recently with the hot weather after driving for a while I find that the
pedal sinks to the ground which I believe to be cause by a faulty brake
master cylinder.

I have called up for some prices for a new part and i am up for around
$370aud and I was wondering if I could save a few $$$ by rebuilding it.


The Honda workshop manual has no instructions on how to do this and I
was wondering weather it was worth trying to rebuild it or weather I
just for for a new master cylinder. If anyone has instructions or can
lead me to a place that has instructions on how to rebuild the unit it
would be good.

Also if I was to get a new master cylinder is it possible to fit a
larger unit in from another car (Integra) to perhaps improve the feel
of the brakes or should I just stick to the original specifications.

Regards,
Michael.

 

Don't you have jobbers in Australia?

Surely you could pick up a reman from the jobber for a fraction of new OEM.

Rebuilding is a good idea, provided you can get the parts and provided the
bore isn't corroded. At least in North America, Honda does not sell MC
parts to the public.

 

Ive never heard of "jobbers" here in Australia.
I can get the pistons and seals from Honda for around $100 so I have
put that down as an option. Aftermarket stuff is not the best
sometimes thats why id rather stay genuine Honda or just rebuild it my
self.

 

Maybe you guys use a different term. "Jobber" in North America refers to
places that sell aftermarket parts to garages and to the public.

If your bore is uncorroded, this would be the very best option other
than a whole new MC. Just make 100% certain you exercise total
cleanliness. No lint, no grit, no smears of grease. Not a trace.

And you may have to adjust the MC pushrod under the dash afterwards, so
be prepared for that.
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mastercylinderreplace/adjustment.html

No kidding. It's usually shite.

I took a flier and went with a NAPA-rebuilt MC for my Integra when mine
wore out at 248,000 miles. I've noticed this one blackens the brake
fluid faster than the OEM one did. I expect it to fail sooner than the
original, and when it does, a brand-new OEM one is going in and hang the
cost.

Amen.

 

But use new, clean brake fluid as a lubricant to help prevent damage to the
seal lips. Do not try to assemble the parts dry.

 

yes they do! it depends which model, but the high volume stuff, they
most definitely sell parts. i know because i just bought a new master
cylinder piston and seal set and reconditioned my master cylinder.

 

Now I Know what you mean by jobbers and yes we do have places like that
i.e. repco

 

maybe. check the cylinder side and see if it has something like
"nissin" and "13/16" cast into it. if so, you can almost certainly use
these parts:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=Civic&catcgry2=1989&catcgry3=3DR+DX&catcgry4=KL4AT&catcgry5=BRAKE+MASTER+CYLINDER

check tegger.com for a diagram. you'll need circlip pliers and silicone
grease.

remove the cylinder body, remove the rubber seal and guide to reveal the
circlip. pressing the piston in about 3cm, remove the bolt you see on
the side of the cylinder. that retains the primary piston. then remove
the circlip. now, both pistons should come out. reassembly is reverse
of removal. don't forget to use a little silicone on all the rubbers on
assembly and to make sure the pistons are pushed in sufficiently before
attempting to re-fit the retaining bolt.

unless you're upgrading to big disks, i'd stick.

it's all about the volume of the fluid pushed out each time you press
the pedal. the usual piston diameters are 13/16, 7/8, 15/16, and 1".
the bigger the diameter, the more fluid, shorter stroke, but also more
pedal pressure. that can be helped by fitting the next size up servo,
but if you're buying new, they're very expensive. junk yards are your
friend.

the 7/8 are relatively rare, but are found on some of the crx's. maybe
del sols too. that might be ok. the 15/16 upgrade is biggest you can
find to preserve existing pipe layout iirc. 1" requires pipe bending
and really isn't a good idea without the disk upgrade. it's only fitted
to abs models normally.

usual upgrade is 15/16, [civic ex/del sol vtec?] big servo, with integra
front & rear disks. don't forget the "4040" proportioning valve.

 

Hm. Maybe it's just my Integra then. All I can buy is a new MC.