external powered sub, timing belt, starting ?'s

I have 2 ?'s if anyone can help me on my newly purchsed 90' predluse
s.

1. I was trying to hook up a powered sparkomatic sub. I don't have a
manual for the car. I was looking at the fuse box for the power
connectors at the bottom but did not know which one I should use.
There are 2 power connectors from the sub and 2 inputs for power wires
under the fuses. WHen I connected both power wires to both the power
inputs under the fuses the radio came on without the key in the
ignition so I figrued I better get help. Any suggestions?

2. Miles are heading to 90,000 and I was looking to get the timing
belt, water pump and the clutch replaced (I read these are good to do
before anything happens). ANy idea what these replacements should
cost all together from a certified honda mechanic.

Also my prelude will have trouble starting (I have to press the clutch
as far as it will go), but once it does it will run fine. Any ideas
on what this could be?


thanks

 

(ghostdog69) decided to join the conversation on 12
Aug 2004 with message

The spade connecters on your fuse box are all positive (+) leads. One is
probably constant power, another is probably "accessory" power.. The
reason your radio came is is probably because you created a circuit
between the constant and accessory power by connecting both wires..

To wire your amp to the car, I'd recommend going directly to the battery
for power.. Don't forget to put an inline fuse(*1) as close to the
battery end of the positive wire as possible.. The ground (-) wire can be
hooked up anywhere there's metal in the trunk.. What i've done in my cars
is unscrewed one of the nuts that holds the tail light housing, scratch
off the paint under the nut (to expose the bare metal).. Crimped on a
ring connector(*2) to the end of the ground wire, stuck the ring on the
bolt, and tightened the nut back down on it..

BTW, I've never heard of Sparkomatic... Sounds like an off-brand.. any
good?

Also, if you haven't run them already: Unless you've got some really high
quality (shielded) audio cables going from your deck to the amp.. Run
your power wires down one side (usually passenger side is best, since
that's the side with the battery on it), and your audio down the other..
It'll cut down on interference. I think.. Anyone wanna verify that?

(Here's what the *'s are for)
*1 - In-line fuse holder: http://tinyurl.com/3ztf7 .. You'll probably
have to get one that's the same gauge as your power wires.. I have a 200w
amp and 12 gauge does fine.. 20amp fuse should do fine in there, also. I
think mine's a 20..

*2 - Ring connector: http://tinyurl.com/6b2f6 ... Get two of them, one
for your ground, one for your positive wire.. Best way to hook it to the
battery is to loosen the terminal, take it off, and completely undo the
nut off there, stick the ring on, and put the nut back on..

Possibly the switch that tells the car that the clutch is pressed down
isn't getting pushed until you push as far as it will go.. I had the same
issue on my '90 prelude. It's better than not having that switch (my 87
accord didn't), forgetting to push the clutch in while in gear and trying
to start the car... :-D

 

(ghostdog69) decided to join the conversation on 12
Aug 2004 with message

The spade connecters on your fuse box are all positive (+) leads. One is
probably constant power, another is probably "accessory" power.. The
reason your radio came is is probably because you created a circuit
between the constant and accessory power by connecting both wires..

To wire your amp to the car, I'd recommend going directly to the battery
for power.. Don't forget to put an inline fuse(*1) as close to the
battery end of the positive wire as possible.. The ground (-) wire can be
hooked up anywhere there's metal in the trunk.. What i've done in my cars
is unscrewed one of the nuts that holds the tail light housing, scratch
off the paint under the nut (to expose the bare metal).. Crimped on a
ring connector(*2) to the end of the ground wire, stuck the ring on the
bolt, and tightened the nut back down on it..

BTW, I've never heard of Sparkomatic... Sounds like an off-brand.. any
good?

Also, if you haven't run them already: Unless you've got some really high
quality (shielded) audio cables going from your deck to the amp.. Run
your power wires down one side (usually passenger side is best, since
that's the side with the battery on it), and your audio down the other..
It'll cut down on interference. I think.. Anyone wanna verify that?

(Here's what the *'s are for)
*1 - In-line fuse holder: http://tinyurl.com/3ztf7 .. You'll probably
have to get one that's the same gauge as your power wires.. I have a 200w
amp and 12 gauge does fine.. 20amp fuse should do fine in there, also. I
think mine's a 20..

*2 - Ring connector: http://tinyurl.com/6b2f6 ... Get two of them, one
for your ground, one for your positive wire.. Best way to hook it to the
battery is to loosen the terminal, take it off, and completely undo the
nut off there, stick the ring on, and put the nut back on..

Possibly the switch that tells the car that the clutch is pressed down
isn't getting pushed until you push as far as it will go.. I had the same
issue on my '90 prelude. It's better than not having that switch (my 87
accord didn't), forgetting to push the clutch in while in gear and trying
to start the car... :-D

 

sparkomatic is very low end

 

sparkomatic is very low end

 

Yes, it's time to do the timing belt and water pump. It would also be a
good idea to replace the cam and crank seals and valve cover gaskets as
well. It makes the job a little more expensive, but it provides a good
insurance policy against premature timing belt failure due to oil leaks
which can degrade the integrity of the rubber timing belt.

Why replace the clutch? Is it slipping?

Eric

 

Yes, it's time to do the timing belt and water pump. It would also be a
good idea to replace the cam and crank seals and valve cover gaskets as
well. It makes the job a little more expensive, but it provides a good
insurance policy against premature timing belt failure due to oil leaks
which can degrade the integrity of the rubber timing belt.

Why replace the clutch? Is it slipping?

Eric

 

The name alone sounds cheap X-D

 

The name alone sounds cheap X-D

 

ghostdog69 wrote:

The clutch pedal switch is adjustable. When closed, it switches ground to a
relay that energizes and passes the 12V from the ignition switch to the
starter solenoid.

 

ghostdog69 wrote:

The clutch pedal switch is adjustable. When closed, it switches ground to a
relay that energizes and passes the 12V from the ignition switch to the
starter solenoid.

 

Any idea what this is going to cost? I was looking to put $500 into
it. What's a good price for the stuff you mentioned so I have an idea
of what's fair?

 

Any idea what this is going to cost? I was looking to put $500 into
it. What's a good price for the stuff you mentioned so I have an idea
of what's fair?

 

For the timing belt/water pump deal, dealers charge anywhere from $400 to
$1200 (US) depending on which engine it is and what they can get away with
in their area. Independents should be closer to $400. If you do it
yourself, genuine Honda parts will be under $200 from one of the on-line
dealers.

 

For the timing belt/water pump deal, dealers charge anywhere from $400 to
$1200 (US) depending on which engine it is and what they can get away with
in their area. Independents should be closer to $400. If you do it
yourself, genuine Honda parts will be under $200 from one of the on-line
dealers.

 

id talk to an independant. i dont think any would be too offended if you
bought a pump, belt, and honda coolant, brought it to em, and told them
you "were gonna do it yourself, but changed your mind". they might bump
the labor up a bit since they wont be making any profit off the OEM
parts you bought.

 

id talk to an independant. i dont think any would be too offended if you
bought a pump, belt, and honda coolant, brought it to em, and told them
you "were gonna do it yourself, but changed your mind". they might bump
the labor up a bit since they wont be making any profit off the OEM
parts you bought.