For CRV: How to test for proper real-time function

I'm thinking my 97 CRV is not getting me out of terain that it used
to. Perhaps my rear wheels are NOT kicking in like they are supposed
to. So........what would be a good way(s) to test for checking that
the back wheels engage? Thanks.

 

Take it out on a snowy road, open the door, lean out and look at the rear
wheels, and then punch it. If the rear wheels spin, then it's working.

 

You should be actually able to feel that it kicks in without having to look.
It's fun too.

How about this instead, it's even cooler:
Take it into a snowy/icy parking lot, preferably empty
While barely going forward, make a hard turn to either side and, once the
car started to turn, floor the gas pedal.
With just FWD, not much will happen, it might even continue forward instead
of turning.
With AWD working properly, your rear wheels should spin and you should end
up spining as well, basically for as long as you floor the gas.
I use it often to make an u-turn

 

===================
Amelia,

You can test the AWD on an icy parking lot: Drive 15 mph, crank the
steering as if you're going to turn. Yank the park brake to lock the
rear wheels and you should go into a four-wheel sideways skid. (the
front wheels should assume the same speed as the rear wheels) If it's a
manual tranny, the engine will also stall unless you push in the clutch.

The engagement of the rear wheels is very subtle, not like another
vehicle suddenly hit you from behind or anything...

I'd recommend changing your 'Dual Pump Fluid' every 30,000 km no matter
what your manual tells you (some manuals say you shouldn't adjust your
valves until they get noisy too :-( ) Yeah, right.

Make sure your front tires are the same as your rear tires or you'll
toast the AWD anyway. Including your spare tire in the frequent
rotations will add 25% more life too.

'Curly'


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The proper procedure (from service manual) involves lifting the car so
all 4 wheels are off the ground, putting it in gear and setting the
parking brake. Manuall transmission car should stall and automatic
should have all 4 wheels stopped. The other suggestion (spinning on
ice/snow) might work too, but is too vague to rely on since even if
your front wheel is spinning and real is not, does not mean the power
is not transferred to the rear (just not enough to cause spinning).
Do change the rear diff. fluid if it has not been done in a while. I
noticed the amount of power transferred to the rear wheels is
gradually reducing as the fluid gets older. I can definitely tell the
system works better after the fluid is changed. 30k miles (50k km) is
good interval for keeping the system in good working order all the
time, IMO.

Dmitry.
Boston.
2000 CR-V ex 5spd. 65K miles.