front brakes

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by stevef, Dec 4, 2003.

  1. stevef

    stevef Guest

    my 99 Accord needs front brakes-dealer says down to about 5% of lining.

    any big deal in changing the front pads? dealer wants $185 for front brake
    job (incl rotors). I think I can just change out pads. Dealer said it is
    not metal to metal yet.

    Also, when should I expect to change spark plugs? What kind would be best?

    Thanks

    99 Accord EX, 4 cyl
    56000 miles
     
    stevef, Dec 4, 2003
    #1
  2. stevef

    TeGGeR Guest


    Pads are easy, but you can get yourself into a pack of trouble if you live
    in a place where you get snow in winter, and don't know what to look for
    when you service the brakes.
     
    TeGGeR, Dec 4, 2003
    #2
  3. stevef

    Caroline Guest

    If you're handy, it's no big deal. **But** spend the ten bucks at Wal-Mart and
    get the jack stands. Chock your back wheels while you're working on the front
    ones.

    Reports here tend to support the notion that one does get what one pays for with
    brake pads. I'm pretty frugal, but not on brake pads.
    Spend the bucks for these, too. Not sure what is recommended. I think the
    owner's manual lists what's good.

    C.
    91 Civic LX Sedan 149k miles and 42-44 mpg
     
    Caroline, Dec 4, 2003
    #3
  4. stevef

    NetSock Guest

    Can be done with a 15mm wrench, and a c-clamp...that's all.
    I change mine at 36k or 3 years.
    I run NGKs.


    --
    '03 S2000
    '94 Accord

    It's just about going fast...that's all...

    http://home.insight.rr.com/cgreen/
     
    NetSock, Dec 4, 2003
    #4
  5. stevef

    TeGGeR Guest


    And *that's* where you can get in a pack of trouble if you live in a place
    with snow. You would then need a bit more than just the 15mm and a C-clamp
    to prevent problems down the road.
     
    TeGGeR, Dec 4, 2003
    #5
  6. stevef

    stevef Guest

    I usually get parts from Oreilly. They have 'lifetime' brake pads. Would
    these be OK?

    What should I look for to prevent further problems? I don't have much snow
    (northern Texas), but may get snow once or twice a year.

    And *that's* where you can get in a pack of trouble if you live in a place
    with snow. You would then need a bit more than just the 15mm and a C-clamp
    to prevent problems down the road.
     
    stevef, Dec 4, 2003
    #6
  7. And *that's* where you can get in a pack of trouble if you live in a place
    Could you explain, please? I did my brakes a year ago, I live in NY city
    where we had quite a bit of snow last year, and don't understand how
    that affects the brakes.

    Norm
     
    Norman Koller, Dec 4, 2003
    #7
  8. stevef

    NetSock Guest

    Such as?

    --
    '03 S2000
    '94 Accord

    It's just about going fast...that's all...

    http://home.insight.rr.com/cgreen/
     
    NetSock, Dec 4, 2003
    #8
  9. stevef

    Saintor Guest


    How true. The tire jack of my Accord 1999 crushed, although it was never
    abused. Fortunately the wheel was still on. I reported this to Honda.

    As for brakes, it is really easy. I buy cheap organic pads for 20$US. I
    did it twice in 75000 miles.
     
    Saintor, Dec 4, 2003
    #9
  10. stevef

    TeGGeR Guest


    One word: Rust.

    Rust will, at minimum, eventually clamp the pads to the mount bracket and
    prevent free movement of both pads. One will wear out well before the
    other.

    Rust will eventually cause the caliper slide pins to seize, and the caliper
    will not be able to float properly, resulting in the same problem as listed
    above.

    This problem can lead to warped rotors, pulling and other undesirable
    secondary problems.

    In addition to the pads and 15mm wrench, you need some 80-grit emery cloth,
    copper grease and silicone grease or Sil-Glyde. Sil-Glyde is better for
    long winters.

    How long it takes for the above to happen depends on the severity of your
    winters, the amount of driving you do and the design of your brakes.

    If you live in Texas, you're OK with just the wrench and pads.
     
    TeGGeR, Dec 4, 2003
    #10
  11. stevef

    stevef Guest

    thanks for the advice TeG...

    One word: Rust.

    Rust will, at minimum, eventually clamp the pads to the mount bracket and
    prevent free movement of both pads. One will wear out well before the
    other.

    Rust will eventually cause the caliper slide pins to seize, and the caliper
    will not be able to float properly, resulting in the same problem as listed
    above.

    This problem can lead to warped rotors, pulling and other undesirable
    secondary problems.

    In addition to the pads and 15mm wrench, you need some 80-grit emery cloth,
    copper grease and silicone grease or Sil-Glyde. Sil-Glyde is better for
    long winters.

    How long it takes for the above to happen depends on the severity of your
    winters, the amount of driving you do and the design of your brakes.

    If you live in Texas, you're OK with just the wrench and pads.
     
    stevef, Dec 4, 2003
    #11
  12. stevef

    NetSock Guest

    The pad sit on stainless bushings that will not rust, however, I will
    concede that one *should* clean and lube all contact surfaces.
    The prelubed slide pins are sealed with rubber boots. This would only happen
    if the boot were damaged, or improperly installed.
    --
    '03 S2000
    '94 Accord

    It's just about going fast...that's all...

    http://home.insight.rr.com/cgreen/
     
    NetSock, Dec 4, 2003
    #12
  13. stevef

    stevef Guest

    the Chilton manual recommends lubing the slide pins with high-temp brake
    grease. However, if pins are sealed this probably wouldn't be necessary (or
    advisable).
    The pad sit on stainless bushings that will not rust, however, I will
    concede that one *should* clean and lube all contact surfaces.
    The prelubed slide pins are sealed with rubber boots. This would only happen
    if the boot were damaged, or improperly installed.
    --
    '03 S2000
    '94 Accord

    It's just about going fast...that's all...

    http://home.insight.rr.com/cgreen/
     
    stevef, Dec 4, 2003
    #13
  14. stevef

    TeGGeR Guest


    What's *under* those shims? Plain steel, that's what. Rust is a lot less
    dense than steel. Rust between the mount bracket surface and the shim puffs
    up and shoves the stainless against the pads, wedging them in place.


    The pins themselves are only plain steel, just like the mount bracket. They
    eventually rust in the groove where the boot sits. The rust pushes the boot
    off the metal just enough to let water leak in. At that point the pin
    begins to rust and lube starts to wash out. Result: Stuck pin. In very bad
    cases you have to clamp a pair of Vise Grips on the pin's head and wiggle
    the pin out.
     
    TeGGeR, Dec 4, 2003
    #14
  15. stevef

    SoCalMike Guest

    ya need to clean and grease the pins, right?
     
    SoCalMike, Dec 5, 2003
    #15
  16. stevef

    Nick Guest

    Since most people have answered your 1st question...I'll help answer
    the 2nd.....I believe that the spark plugs on 98 and above Accords are
    Platinum Plugs so that you don't have to change them for 100k miles.
    The OEMs that Honda uses are NGKs. Changing them earlier does not
    hurt, but why waste the money? Wait a while longer before you change
    them if you are going to do it early.

    Hope this helps,
    Nick
     
    Nick, Dec 5, 2003
    #16
  17. stevef

    stevef Guest

    just a follow up.

    I replaced pads today; didn't have any real problems. I forgot to put shims
    on inner pad on one side and had to re-remove tire and put them on. Decided
    to use Wagner pads-more expensive but Oreilly said they don't create as much
    dust.

    Brakes seem to work OK.

    What is purpose of shims? Inner pads have two shims, outer pads have one.

    Also replace spark plugs. Manual does not call for platinum on 4 cylinder.
    Don't know why, but I replaced with the same NGK plugs which were not
    platinum.

    PS-requires 17mm socket, not 15.

    Thanks for all help.


    Since most people have answered your 1st question...I'll help answer
    the 2nd.....I believe that the spark plugs on 98 and above Accords are
    Platinum Plugs so that you don't have to change them for 100k miles.
    The OEMs that Honda uses are NGKs. Changing them earlier does not
    hurt, but why waste the money? Wait a while longer before you change
    them if you are going to do it early.

    Hope this helps,
    Nick





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    stevef, Dec 5, 2003
    #17
  18. stevef

    SoCalMike Guest

    noise, maybe some heat dissipation.
    yep. id always use whats recommended (ND or NGK), rather than some snakeoil
    splitfire crap.
     
    SoCalMike, Dec 5, 2003
    #18
  19. stevef

    Tegger® Guest


    The shims are there to prevent the brake assembly's natural vibration
    frequency from entering the range that is audible to the human ear. All
    brakes vibrate when used.

    The factory has gone to great lengths to make sure they won't vibrate so
    you can hear them. Using aftermarket pads or omitting the shims runs the
    risk (but not the certainty) that the vibration will shift so as to become
    audible, which is heard as a squeal or squeak.

    The pads also help prevent such things as dust buildup and rust from
    shifting the frequency to an audible range.


    Platinum lasts longer. Non-platinum is fine if the manual says they are OK.
    My Integra does not call for platinum, but I use them anyway.
     
    Tegger®, Dec 7, 2003
    #19
  20. stevef

    Rex B Guest

    On Thu, 04 Dec 2003 12:49:53 GMT, TeGGeR

    |"NetSock" <> spake unto the assembled masses in
    ||
    |> |>> my 99 Accord needs front brakes-dealer says down to about 5% of
    |>> lining.
    |>>
    |>> any big deal in changing the front pads? dealer wants $185 for front
    |> brake
    |>> job (incl rotors). I think I can just change out pads. Dealer said
    |>> it is not metal to metal yet.
    |>
    |> Can be done with a 15mm wrench, and a c-clamp...that's all.
    |
    |
    |And *that's* where you can get in a pack of trouble if you live in a place
    |with snow. You would then need a bit more than just the 15mm and a C-clamp
    |to prevent problems down the road.

    So why don't you just share with the OP what sorts of things to look for?

    |TeGGeR®

    Rex in Fort Worth
     
    Rex B, Dec 10, 2003
    #20
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