Front Quarter Panel Replacement (1999 Civic)

Discussion in 'Civic' started by Elle, Jun 30, 2005.

  1. Elle

    Elle Guest

    A friend of mine's front driver's side quarter panel (a.k.a. "fender")
    became dented in a parking lot hit and run. Her car is a 99 Civic LX.

    Has anyone replaced one of these quarter panels? How much time did it take?
    Where are the main fasteners?

    I am going to dig for a manual but am not optimistic I can get my hands on
    one.

    If this were my car, I'd wing it. But it's someone else's car, so advice
    would be appreciated.
     
    Elle, Jun 30, 2005
    #1
  2. Elle

    TeGGeR® Guest



    It's called a fender. There's no such term as "front quarter panel". There
    *is* a "rear quarter panel", though.




    This is odd. I've just checked two different Honda shop manuals and neither
    even mentions the front fenders. I can only guess that Honda thinks it's
    pretty obvious when you start studying it.

    The fenders I've removed have all been very easy except for fastener
    corrosion: There's a row across the top, paralleling the hood/fender gap
    (undo those LAST); There's one at the top rear corner that can only be got
    at with the door open; There's one or two at the bottom behind the front
    wheel; There's one or two at the front just ahead of the front wheel.

    On my '91 'Teg you also need to remove the front bumper, the corner light
    and its bracket, and the mudguard.

    You'll also need to remove at least three of those plastic clips that hold
    the fender liner on to the wheel well lip.
     
    TeGGeR®, Jun 30, 2005
    #2
  3. Elle

    dold Guest

    Stuck bolts are a problem. You might need a few new ones. You might need
    to coerce some of the old ones to come out. I've seen some bolts painted
    in place, maybe as the result of some repair work.

    If you get a replacement fender, you should get a Honda part. A friend
    went aftermarket on a VW, because the German parts prices are so high, but
    it didn't really match up. On my BMW, factory parts came pre-painted,
    which justified the high price for someone on a DIY job. I didn't need to
    get it painted.
     
    dold, Jun 30, 2005
    #3
  4. Elle

    Elle Guest

    The following, among other sites, indicates you're wrong:
    -----
    http://www.innerauto.com/Automotive_Definitions/Front_Quarter_Panel/

    The front quarter panel is composed of the body skin, or sheet metal, that
    runs from the front corner of the hood to the front of the door. It is
    usually a separate piece that is welded on in a few places. This makes it
    easy to replace if you get in a "fender bender." Front quarter panels can
    usually be replaced relatively inexpensively.

    Some newer vehicles use a rubber-like plastic for the fenders, which allows
    small impacts to be absorbed without damage.
    -----------
    I checked my 1984-1995 Civic/CRX/del Sol Chilton's manual, and there is a
    half-page on front fender replacement. Same for the 99-2000 Accord manual,
    which I picked up at the library.
    Sounds good and similar to what I see in the manuals and on my own 91 Civic.

    If I give it a shot, I'll post back in a few weeks.

    Clarence, thanks for the tip about avoiding aftermarket. My friend is buying
    OEM for about $125. Not sure what her plan is for paint at this time.
     
    Elle, Jun 30, 2005
    #4
  5. Elle

    TeGGeR® Guest


    I'll second (and third...) Clarence's aftermarket warning. They're a bitch
    to make fit, and often they refuse to no matter what.

    Until you try making parts fit that came off another car (especially when
    one or both were in a collision), you have no idea how squishy car body
    alignment really is. Even the factory makes impromptu "modifications" with
    wooden-handled rubber mallets during assembly.

    Get used OEM, and expect some bending before clearances are correct. If it
    falls into place with no fiddling, consider yourself lucky. Don't snug down
    ANY bolts until everything is lined up properly. There's a reason many
    holes are oversize or slotted. You may have to temporarily reinstall
    bumpers and lights to make certain everything is correct before you tighten
    the fender bolts.

    If you have to remove the bumper, a helper is handy. It's only about 20
    lbs, but it's long and awkward to handle. I remove mine by unhooking the
    driver's side end first, then "unwrapping" the bumper from the car like
    peeling the lid off a coffee can. The passenger's side has a small hook
    that holds that end up when all the bolts are removed, so the last bolt I
    remove is one of the driver's side ones. Yours may be similar. Inspect the
    consturction as you disassemble.

    Another few warnings: Fenders are very floppy when they're not bolted in
    place. It's easy to kink or bend them if you pick them up wrong. Be
    careful. Watch for sharp edges that can (will) slice you. And if the lights
    or bumper are really in the way, remove them, don't try to work around them
    or you'll bend the fender or scratch something.

    If you have to remove the headlight, use Wite-Out to make marks on all the
    mounting bolt flanges. This will enable you to replace the light exactly as
    it came off.

    Good luck and have fun. :)
     
    TeGGeR®, Jun 30, 2005
    #5
  6. Elle

    SoCalMike Guest

    really? i never knew that... thats kinda cool. what if the car is old?
    i wonder how much extra it costs, and how much extra careful packing has
    to be done when its shipped.
     
    SoCalMike, Jul 1, 2005
    #6
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