Help buy car for 19 yr old college student?

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by me6, Apr 11, 2004.

  1. me6

    me6 Guest

    My 19 yr old nephew will be off to first year of college next fall.

    He desperately needs reliable and economical transportation as he will
    be in college abt 4 hrs away.

    What vehicle.... model and brand....would be a good bet for him to
    buy? We are thinking brand new vs used....so that he will have a
    warranty and can fully concentrate on his studies at school (he wants
    to become dentist) ... and not have to worry abt a used car and
    breakdowns. But we are on a budget.

    he has worked hard and has a good savings.... plus his family (uncles,
    parents) will help him with cost a new car as well.

    We need something that will help keep his insurance costs low as he is
    in that high risk "bracket" at his age level.

    Advice?

    Thanks in advance!
     
    me6, Apr 11, 2004
    #1
  2. me6

    Artfulcodger Guest

    A low mileage 3 to 4 yr old Civic would give excellent service except that
    prices are extremely high due to their popularity among young fellows
    turning them into rice rockets. You could probably do as well buying a new
    Toyota Echo for low cost transportation. For that matter if resale value is
    not a consideration go with the Kia Rio with its long warranty and low buy
    in price.
    All is my opinion only.
    Thanks for asking.
    Mike
     
    Artfulcodger, Apr 11, 2004
    #2
  3. me6

    me6 Guest

    A low mileage 3 to 4 yr old Civic would give excellent service except that
    Yep.... what little looking at used cars we've done.... it seems
    almost as economical to go ahead and buy new....as the 3 year old
    vehicles are only a thousand or so dollar less than new. Do you find
    that the case as well?

    He is NOT against going used..... and neither is his family..... but
    just wondering how cost effective that will be since we don't want to
    go any older than a few years if going used.

    Also.... what "factors" will help keep his insurance costs down? I
    mean will 4 doors be less risky than say a TWO door Civic? Does the
    amt of doors count in any way?

    Also.... will insur costs be lower if he sticks with manual vs
    automatic?

    Bottom line.... maybe I should ask the question in reverse.... what
    car "factors" will INCREASE his insurance costs? Sport car styling?
    Turbo charger, blah, blah, blah?

    I really wan to help this boy as much as possible. hence all the
    research and questions. Hope I don't drive you all nuts. LOL
     
    me6, Apr 11, 2004
    #3
  4. me6

    Eric Guest

    Call the insurance company. They should be willing to answer these
    questions.

    Eric
     
    Eric, Apr 11, 2004
    #4
  5. me6

    Tony Hwang Guest

    Hi,
    It's not the car. Insurance. My 20 year old, 3rd year university kid
    costs a lot on insurance. he's been driving since he was 14.
    Premium is higher on cetain model of cars.
    Tony
     
    Tony Hwang, Apr 12, 2004
    #5
  6. me6

    Aron Guest

    I would recommend a Hyundai or a certified used Honda or Toyota to get the
    best warrantee coverage and value for your dollar. I do not expect a lot of
    work will have to be done on even a 5 year old Accord or Civic. Most new
    cars are not worth the cost. They lose something like 1/3 of their value as
    soon as you drive them off the lot. They are now used. Keep in mind all
    machines will fail given time. Hondas and Toyotas are very reliable,
    however. A young Honda or Toyota is typically no different from a new one
    except for how strong the new car scent is. Older cars tend to have lower
    insurance costs because of their lower value. Part prices go down as the
    car gets older until the parts get rare.

    I bought my 1988 Accord in 1995 for $5190 out the door including DMV fees
    and tax. It had 101,822mi. on it. Now it has 227,6?? mi. The purchase
    price has worked out to about 4 cents per mile. It runs great except for
    some vibration at idle when in gear. Over the years I have done work on it
    to keep it in good shape, which has cost me about 5 cents per mile. This is
    about the same as the cost to fuel it. Over the past 9 years I have gotten
    stuck 3 times - 2 times because of faulty AutoZone parts, one time because I
    didn't change the timing belt. It survived the belt letting go. In short,
    this car is costing 15 cents per mile including fuel and purchase price and
    excluding fees and insurance. Most college students are probably looking
    for cheapest per mile. Fees and tax are a negligible percentage of the
    operating cost of most automobiles. The biggest additional cost is
    insurance.

    Insurance is a big variable. Insuring a 19 year old on any car will
    probably cost at least $1000/year (or there abouts), $2000/year for a sporty
    car, and $4000/year with any moving violations. There are a lot of factors
    to the insurance cost that vary from state to state. These may include your
    credit rating, the value of the car, the safety rating of the car, the age
    of the drivers, the number of drivers in the household (weather or not they
    drive the car), the number of household members (weather or not they are
    licensed), the age of household members, the driving records of other
    insured drivers on the policy, your neighborhood, miles driven to/from
    work/school, yearly mileage, anti-theft devices, driver training, and other
    public records obtained in secret.

    In my opinion, the best priced cars on the road are Hondas and Toyotas.
    From my experience they will save you money over an American made vehicle,
    even if the American made vehicle is thousands of dollars less to purchase.
    I am wary of American made Japanese cars, but they are still good. In my
    opinion it is better to buy a car from an individual than a dealer. Dealers
    have great resources to cover up defects and are looking to maximize profit.
    An individual is just trying to sell it for more than the
    pennies-on -the-dollar that the dealer offered them for the car as a
    trade-in. Good luck with your search.


    Aron
     
    Aron, Apr 12, 2004
    #6
  7. me6

    Eric Guest

    Is it fuel injected? If so, then the valves may have been adjusted to the
    wrong specs (although there could be other causes). There are revised valve
    clearances for '85-'89 Accords and '85-'87 Preludes with fuel injection.
    Adjust the intake valves to 0.20 mm and the exhaust valves to 0.32 mm.
    These specs are a little looser than the specs on the underhood sticker and
    eliminate the excessive valve over lap which causes a rough idle if the
    underhood sticker specs are used. For reference, this information is from a
    Vital Link TSB.

    Eric
     
    Eric, Apr 13, 2004
    #7
  8. me6

    Me Guest


    I bought a 1994 Civic in 1999 for $5000 cash with 89,000 miles on it
    with one owner. The nice thing about this mileage range for a Civic
    (or any car for that matter) is that you can be pretty certain that a
    one owner car at around 100k miles didn't have major problems or they
    would have dumped it right after the warrenty ran out. The other thing
    with Civics is that it hasn't even been broken in at 100k. My total
    maintenance from 89,000 to today at about 168,0000 has been: Three CV
    axles, a bunch of oil changes, two sets of plugs (not needed, just
    preventative), a set of plug wires, a set of new brake pads and shoes,
    a timing belt, and a clutch master cylinder. I think my total
    maintenance cost excluding oil changes would be about $800, so I've
    done pretty well, and I'm still on my original clutch which is going
    strong. I'd look at one owner medium mileage vehicles for the best
    bang for your buck with the Civics and Corollas. I would warn against
    the Tercels, though. I has one for two years. They aren't fun to
    drive, they're loud, and they are very maintenance intensive.

    Nate
     
    Me, Apr 15, 2004
    #8
  9. me6

    Me Guest

    When I was a high school junior in 1994 with no moving violations, no
    tickets, and a good grades discount, I paid $1600 a year to drive a
    1979 Toyota Celica and a 1981 Datsun 510. I love it that I can't get a
    good grade discount now, because I'm over 25, even with a 3.96 college
    GPA. Oh well....

    Nate
     
    Me, Apr 15, 2004
    #9
  10. me6

    Aron Guest

    I don't know if you'll still see this thread if I reply this late, but no it
    is not fuel injected. I tried replacing the idle boost diaphragm (for A/C
    and auto) to no avail. The idle is too low sometimes when the car is hot
    but acts up less when it is hot out than when it is cool.
     
    Aron, May 17, 2004
    #10
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