Help me figure out this problem - no start '90 accord LX.

Discussion in 'Accord' started by Gary H, Oct 6, 2003.

  1. Gary H

    Gary H Guest

    I write:
    |around town, however, the car will start when jumpe started. Car is towed home

    OPPS. This should say the car will **NOT** start when jumped started.



    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
    |The details (long):
    |In the last few weeks, the car has died on multiple occasions around town
    |and on a long road trip. The car would just lose power. Pull off the road and
    |am not able to start it. In all cases it was a drained battery. Charge
    |it up or jump start it and we're good to go. Same thing happens recently
    |around town, however, the car will start when jumpe started. Car is towed home
    |and we charge battery fully. The car cranks vigoriously, but will not start!
    |This is now the second alternator so I no longer think this is the cause (at
    |least not directly). As mentioned above, I've eliminated a few possibilities
    |and figure it might be (in order of likelyhood) - ECU (computer), main relay,
    |or injectors.
     
    Gary H, Oct 6, 2003
    #1
  2. Gary H

    Caliban Guest

    How many miles on the car?

    I haven't heard of the main fuel relay failing twice. (Though I guess with
    enough years and miles, it will.) I think there was a defect in the original
    one in this year's Hondas. Subsequent relays don't have this defect.

    Check and consider replacing: spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap and
    rotor. This is around $100 in parts and very little labor.

    Have you ever replaced the distributor coil on this car? If not, consider
    doing so. It may not be the problem but your car is probably due for a new
    one, so it's probably worthwhile. Max. of about $100 in parts and another
    $100 in labor.

    Same for the ignitor (a.k.a. ignition module). Also max. of about $100 in
    parts and another $100 in labor.

    How old's the battery (years and miles)? I ask because it may be
    complicating the above problems.
     
    Caliban, Oct 6, 2003
    #2
  3. Gary said he was getting spark which would seem to rule out these
    ignition parts and he said it cranks well so the battery must be OK.

    Hey Gary, how did you check the spark? Was it strong or merely
    present?

    I would be tempted to put another fuel pump relay in as a test.
     
    Gordon McGrew, Oct 7, 2003
    #3
  4. Gary H

    Gary H Guest

    I checked the sparks three ways. I have a spark tester which plugs inline
    between the plug and wire. I also took out the plug and watched it arc
    when cranked (wire connected). I also watched it arc from dist to wire.
    The spark didn't seem all that powerful, but that's all relative. A weak
    spark should still cause combustion.

    I tested the fuel pressure at the fuel rail. When ignition was turned on
    with banjo bolt unbolted, gas shot up out of the bolt as expected.

    I'm at a loss on what's going on since I'm getting spark and fuel. I haven't
    checked if I'm getting air (not sure what the best way to do that is). With
    all three present (air, spark, and fuel), I should be getting combustion.
    perhaps my timing is off because I have a supra that won't start if the timing
    is way out of range.
    Gary
     
    Gary H, Oct 7, 2003
    #4
  5. Gary H

    Koji San Guest

    You've mentioned not getting air? Usually when the catalytic is jammed, the
    car looses power and come to a complete stop and no start. There will be
    little or no air intake flows or muffler exhausts.

    Fuel is best check by smelling the plugs, it tells you richness, fouling,
    flooding, etc. If all fuel injectors aren't working, a check engine light is
    designed to light up in most cases.

    The 90 Accord produces a large arc when using a (normal electrical) ground
    wire placed near the coil's secondary (the coil's output) or other areas but
    will produce a small arc when using the plugs as a test jig. A good igniter
    also plays a part in producing a large arc. Here's why.

    Step 1. A simple coil test should consists of supplying the coil's ( + ) and
    (-) for 14ms a watch the arc.
    Step 2. Now compare this arc to the one produced from the stock igniter, I
    mean by cranking the motor. The igniter produced arc should be at least four
    times larger, and larger as the gap to ground increases. If step 1 produces
    a very, very weak arc and step 2 produces a weak arc, then the coil is in
    question.

    I've had many Hondas that will start with 2-3 teeth off the T-belt.
    Koji
     
    Koji San, Oct 7, 2003
    #5
  6. Before suspecting the ECU you should check sensors like the TW sensor and
    MAP sensor - a simple check of resistance can tell if they're way off.
    The main relay is easy to check - listen for the fuel pump running for
    2secs when you turn on the ignition. There has to be a reason for the
    battery discharging so often and could also be the final cause of your
    non-start - check for shorts with the car turned off and then with the
    ignition on... and of course check grounding and wire harnesses.

    IIRC if you crank for 30secs you should get a check engine code. Was that
    a Honda OEM alternator? There have been reports of aftermarket rebuilds
    failing fairly quickly.

    Rgds, George Macdonald

    "Just because they're paranoid doesn't mean you're not psychotic" - Who, me??
     
    George Macdonald, Oct 7, 2003
    #6
  7. Gary H

    Koji San Guest

    The question should be why isn`t my alternator charging. It sounds
    like you're loosing power to your ignition or fuel system. According
    to your complaints you loss battery power coming to a stop suggests an
    electrical problem. Here`s what I see.

    I have seen one Honda with acid dripping down into the wire harness`s
    sleeve corroding the main wire that connects to the alternator and
    other systems. But does not effect the starter and won`t start. The
    battery will not charge and the corrosion is visibly undetectable. The
    dash lights are slightly dimmed.

    If it were your case, I would jump 12V battery to ignition switch 12V
    main (white) in left foot fuse box using a thick cable to bring back
    that current.
    Koji
     
    Koji San, Oct 8, 2003
    #7
  8. Gary H

    Gary H Guest

    George,
    I've had two alternators in there. OEM and a rebuilt one.
    Alternator aside, the car should start with a good battery.
    Would a shorted alternator cause a no-start?

    The main relay is 1.5 yrs old. I will check again though.
    Gary
     
    Gary H, Oct 11, 2003
    #8
  9. Gary H

    Gary H Guest

    Koji,
    Dash light are not dim, but that's something I will check.
    How do I check the engine light on an accord?
    Thanks,
    Gary
     
    Gary H, Oct 11, 2003
    #9
  10. Gary H

    NomoreRGS Guest

    The yellow check engine light should light up while the key is turned
    to the ignition position. It should go out after starting. If you
    never see it light in the process of getting the engine running there
    is a problem. Possibly the light itself.
     
    NomoreRGS, Oct 11, 2003
    #10
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