honda civic tune up trouble

Discussion in 'Civic' started by BADMOJO, Jul 10, 2005.

  1. BADMOJO

    BADMOJO Guest

    i recently performed a minor tune up including spark plugs air filter fuel
    filter and throttle body cleaning with finger tips and carb spray. upon
    completion of the job, i tried to start the vehicle. no dice. checked fuel
    pressure good, air supply as good as it has ever been. no spark. what did i
    un wittingly mess up when i was tuning. i tried the original plugs. no
    fire. i checked the relay, three clicks as it should have. it has 140,000
    miles on it and was running pretty good until i tuned vehicle. please
    help.
     
    BADMOJO, Jul 10, 2005
    #1
  2. BADMOJO

    TeGGeR® Guest


    You replaced the fuel filter. Turn the ignition key to II (NOT to "start").
    Wait for the Check Engine light to go off. Now do this ten more times or
    so.

    Still no start?

    Do you have the plug wires the right way around?

    Did you plug in all the hoses that were attached to the intake hose?
     
    TeGGeR®, Jul 10, 2005
    #2
  3. BADMOJO

    duckbill Guest

    I had a similar thing happen to me after doing a valve adjustment on my 95
    Civic Ex. Because I did not ground the coil's high voltage lead when I
    bumped the starter, I fried my coil. I have learned my lesson here.
    Either ground the high voltage side on your coil or disconnect the input
    to the coil before turning the motor over with the coil disconnected for
    maint. purposes. I was also told by two different dealerships that
    Honda's sometimes lose their ignitor and coil at the same time, but I
    would check the coil first. Good luck.
     
    duckbill, Jul 10, 2005
    #3
  4. BADMOJO

    jim beam Guest

    duckbill wrote:
    not likely - that's just dealers with their "we've got it open, let's
    replace everything" policy. makes sense for them 'cos they don't want
    returns. makes no sense for you if you're doing the work yourself.
     
    jim beam, Jul 10, 2005
    #4
  5. BADMOJO

    BADMOJO Guest

    i originaly spun the engine over a couple of times without the throttle
    body hose hooked up in order to clean the throttle body. i have the plug
    wires in the correct order and i have fuel pressure to the fuel rail as is
    apparent by loosening the bolt on it to bleed the line and it about
    showered me with fuel. I am about 98 percent positive that i have no fire.
    i have done all but hold the plug while it is spinning over to test it. i
    just dont understand why i lost fire when i simply removed the plugs. i
    believe that it is cursed.
     
    BADMOJO, Jul 10, 2005
    #5
  6. BADMOJO

    BADMOJO Guest

    is there any way to check the ignitor/ coil with a test light. which wires
    should i probe. is the ignitor the little black bar in the dist with the
    contact that brushes the rotor button or is it the piece that has the
    wires plugged into it? the inside of the dist cap was relatively clean for
    the mileage with only slight oxidation on the contacts. i cleaned all of
    them, still no fire. its a conspiracy i believe.
     
    BADMOJO, Jul 10, 2005
    #6
  7. BADMOJO

    duckbill Guest

    Your can't check the coil (most likely problem) with a test light. You
    need an Ohms meter to check resistance and continuity. Almost anyone with
    a meter should be able to check it. An Advance / AutoZone store might
    check it for free. You need the specs on the coil. Do you have them?
     
    duckbill, Jul 10, 2005
    #7
  8. BADMOJO

    jim beam Guest

    the ohm meter test only tells you if the coil's burnt right out - it
    can't reliably test the coil for operation - the winding may be perfect
    and test perfect, but if the internal insulation has broken down, it may
    be conducting at say 5kV, not holding to 40kV like a good coil. if it
    breaks down at 5kV, you'll never spark a plug with it.

    to test, you need an old plug [with the outer electrode gapped /huge/]
    and some leads to connect up the lug to the coil & battery. disconnect
    all other leads.
     
    jim beam, Jul 11, 2005
    #8
  9. BADMOJO

    duckbill Guest

    BADMOJO I'm not sure what year your Civic is but the Honda Factory Service
    Manual for the 95 Civic tells you to check your coil with an ohmeter. As
    follows:
    primary winding 0.6 to .08 ohms........secondary winding resistance 12.8
    to 19.2 thousand ohms. The ohmeter will tell you if the coil is shorted or
    open (burnt out). You might consider purchasing a Hayes Repair Manual for
    around $15 or check one out from the library. That will help make things
    very clear.
    Good Luck
     
    duckbill, Jul 11, 2005
    #9
  10. My independent mechanic couldn't solve the so start condition on my
    '94 GS-R. Wouldn't start after replacing the ignitor. He finally
    called a mechanic friend at the Honda dealership who told him to
    replace the coil also. He said that a bad coil damages the ignitor.
     
    Gordon McGrew, Jul 11, 2005
    #10
  11. BADMOJO

    TeGGeR® Guest



    How did you prevent the engine from starting when you "spun" it over?
     
    TeGGeR®, Jul 11, 2005
    #11
  12. BADMOJO

    BADMOJO Guest

    plug wires not connected at that time
     
    BADMOJO, Jul 11, 2005
    #12
  13. BADMOJO

    BADMOJO Guest

    thanks i believe that i will have to try that
     
    BADMOJO, Jul 11, 2005
    #13
  14. BADMOJO

    BADMOJO Guest

    yes another fellow listed the primary and secondary winding resistance
    numbers
     
    BADMOJO, Jul 11, 2005
    #14
  15. BADMOJO

    BADMOJO Guest

    yes another fellow listed the primary and secondary winding resistance
    numbers
     
    BADMOJO, Jul 11, 2005
    #15
  16. BADMOJO

    BADMOJO Guest

    looks like ill be replacing the coil and ignitor. it would probably be
    cheaper to just replace the distributor would it not?
     
    BADMOJO, Jul 11, 2005
    #16
  17. BADMOJO

    TeGGeR® Guest



    Oops! You wrecked your coil.

    Replace it.

    http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/startproblems.html#fail
     
    TeGGeR®, Jul 11, 2005
    #17
  18. BADMOJO

    BADMOJO Guest

    Ok that is what i was afraid of. we will try that
     
    BADMOJO, Jul 11, 2005
    #18
  19. BADMOJO

    BADMOJO Guest

    refresh my education. when testing with the ohm meter i ohm out from coil
    lead to positive or from pos to neg. or in what order? it seems to be
    reading impedence in the aforementioned ranges. if the coil reads
    correctly what then? thanks mojo
     
    BADMOJO, Jul 12, 2005
    #19
  20. BADMOJO

    jim beam Guest

    + & - for primary, ht lead to either for the secondary - if you have
    them in series, you'll never know because the secondary's resistance is
    so high in comparison.
     
    jim beam, Jul 12, 2005
    #20
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