Honda timing belt tension

I just replaced the timing belt on my 2000 Honda Accord and it sort of
runs OK. I am not sure I did it 100% right. There is grinding noise
from the timing belt teeth now and then when the engine runs slowly. I
drove the car to work today on the highway and it runs fine when the
engine is up to speed. The Honda manual was not too specific on belt
tension. I took the car apart a second time and the belt tension
seemed OK. I am wondering if the belt will stop grinding when it wears
in.

I was hoping to take a long Thanksgiving day trip, but I don't know if
I can trust the car. I could give up and have the dealer look at it
but I hate to give up.

Any suggestion on checking the timing belt installation and tension
myself?

 

Are you positive that the noise is in fact the belt? Did you change the
water pump? Does the Accord have a single "serpentine" drive belt for the
alternator, ac, and ps pump? If not and they are separate belts, you had to
remove them to get at the timing belt so maybe you have incorrect tension on
the alternator, ac, or ps pump. If so, the noise could be coming from the
bearings in any one of those. If you can get your hand or a finger in there
carefully while the engine is running, try touching the timing belt cover
and see if you can "feel" the noise. Check the covers, make sure they
aren't loose or vibrating.

I've done the belt twice on my 99 Civic. The manual shows the sequence of
installation on the belt pulleys: crank to tensioner to water pump to
camshaft. The tensioner pulley is then loosened so it springs back into
place and applies tension. The tensioner should move freely without
binding. The timing marks are then rechecked. Then the engine is then
turned about five turns. The timing marks are then re-checked again. If
ok, the tensioner is loosened 1/2 turn, the engine is turned 3 teeth on the
cam pulley, and then the tensioner is retightened.

I don't know if the belt itself would be "grinding".

Pete

 

Are you positive that the noise is in fact the belt? Did you change the
water pump? Does the Accord have a single "serpentine" drive belt for the
alternator, ac, and ps pump? If not and they are separate belts, you had to
remove them to get at the timing belt so maybe you have incorrect tension on
the alternator, ac, or ps pump. If so, the noise could be coming from the
bearings in any one of those. If you can get your hand or a finger in there
carefully while the engine is running, try touching the timing belt cover
and see if you can "feel" the noise. Check the covers, make sure they
aren't loose or vibrating.

I've done the belt twice on my 99 Civic. The manual shows the sequence of
installation on the belt pulleys: crank to tensioner to water pump to
camshaft. The tensioner pulley is then loosened so it springs back into
place and applies tension. The tensioner should move freely without
binding. The timing marks are then rechecked. Then the engine is then
turned about five turns. The timing marks are then re-checked again. If
ok, the tensioner is loosened 1/2 turn, the engine is turned 3 teeth on the
cam pulley, and then the tensioner is retightened.

I don't know if the belt itself would be "grinding".

Pete

 

None of mine grind afterwards. Grinding noises are a 'bad thing'!

I always change the tensioner, water pump, all belts, hoses, and the
thermostat, at one time, when I change the timing belt.

I agree it could be the tensioner, if it wasn't changed, or, a different
accessory bearing suffering under too much load from an over tensioned
v-belt.

I don't poke any body part I cherish into moving machinery. I use the
cheap long screwdriver or the $5.99 mechanic stethoscope, from

http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=stethoscope&Submit=Go

 

None of mine grind afterwards. Grinding noises are a 'bad thing'!

I always change the tensioner, water pump, all belts, hoses, and the
thermostat, at one time, when I change the timing belt.

I agree it could be the tensioner, if it wasn't changed, or, a different
accessory bearing suffering under too much load from an over tensioned
v-belt.

I don't poke any body part I cherish into moving machinery. I use the
cheap long screwdriver or the $5.99 mechanic stethoscope, from

http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=stethoscope&Submit=Go

 

Thank you for your replies. The belt teeth are definitely griding.
Nothing else would sound like that. I will try the tensioning
procedure as you described and in the manual again. Hopefully I got
the tensioning hardware in place correctly. Otherwise I have to take
the whole thing apart again. I replace both tensioning wheels and both
the timing and balancer belts I got from a CNS kit on ebay. I did not
replace the water pump because I thought it would take another hour or
so. Are the CNS kit parts OK? I thing the belts were ITM but I am not
sure since the car is not in front of me right now. The car runs OK
but I hear the grinding now and then especially when the engine is
running slowly.

Thanks.

 

Thank you for your replies. The belt teeth are definitely griding.
Nothing else would sound like that. I will try the tensioning
procedure as you described and in the manual again. Hopefully I got
the tensioning hardware in place correctly. Otherwise I have to take
the whole thing apart again. I replace both tensioning wheels and both
the timing and balancer belts I got from a CNS kit on ebay. I did not
replace the water pump because I thought it would take another hour or
so. Are the CNS kit parts OK? I thing the belts were ITM but I am not
sure since the car is not in front of me right now. The car runs OK
but I hear the grinding now and then especially when the engine is
running slowly.

Thanks.

 

---------------------------

Removing the valve cover will be sufficient to see if the belt is
SHREDDING / jumped out of time.

'Curly'

 

---------------------------

Removing the valve cover will be sufficient to see if the belt is
SHREDDING / jumped out of time.

'Curly'

 

After readjusting the belt several times, I finally gave up and took
the car to the dealer. It turns out the noise I was hearing was not
any of the belts but a rattling due to the engine mount not being put
back right. They said the mount was not aligned right. They charge
$114 to fix it. At least they were fair about it.

Thanks for your comments.

 

After readjusting the belt several times, I finally gave up and took
the car to the dealer. It turns out the noise I was hearing was not
any of the belts but a rattling due to the engine mount not being put
back right. They said the mount was not aligned right. They charge
$114 to fix it. At least they were fair about it.

Thanks for your comments.